Home
What's new
Latest activity
Authors
Store
Latest reviews
Search products
Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New listings
New products
New profile posts
Latest activity
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
Cart
Cart
Loading…
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Search titles only
By:
Menu
Log in
Register
Navigation
Install the app
Install
More options
Change style
Contact us
Close Menu
Forums
Cobra Forums
The Terminator
Driveline
IRS Overhaul wtih FTBR kit!
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="FiveOhJoe" data-source="post: 12733313" data-attributes="member: 142535"><p>Yes all finished. Just been too lazy to make this post </p><p></p><p>First order of business was to get the diff all fixed up. Hans at Dean's Performance took care. of that. Then all I had to do was put the milled diff cover on. I used the Ford Gray RTV that is for diesel oil pans since it seems most guys have good luck with it. 200 miles later and it's still dry. Then I filled it with about 1.7L of Amsoil Severe Gear and the ford friction modifier.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]427955[/ATTACH] </p><p></p><p>One of the things I wanted to do with the whole assembly out is clean up the splattered and caked on diff fluid all over the bottom of the car. It was terrible, took 12 cans of brake cleaner to remove all of it, and that was after scraping it away with a plastic scraper. Replaced the fuel filter while I was in there. </p><p>Here is where I got a little worried, as you will see in the pic, the body of the car has been smashed in. Looks like it was done to accommodate the SRA that was in there at one point. Am I right about that?</p><p>[ATTACH=full]427956[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Everything went pretty smoothly with all the bushings. I would say the hardest part is actually getting the whole thing back into the car. I had to take a 120gritt flap wheel to the inner mounting ears on the IRS and shave down the delrin and aluminum sleeve by about half of it's thickness to get it back in the car. My car was in an accident in a former life on the rear passenger side that messed up the passenger side front mounting ear on the car. Port-a-power wouldn't open it up enough. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]427957[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I got it in by lining up and installing the back mounting locations first. There was no way I was getting the front in first, not with what i had to clearance to get the damn thing back in. Ditched the MM low profile bolts for a pair of brand new OEM bolts. To get the front larger bolts in, the key is to slowly pull it in with leverage. I used a thick screwdriver in the mouting holes that were closest to being lined up and pried at that to get the other side perfectly straight to slide the new big bolt in. I had to hammer it in at the end. Then the other one went in with some prying at the subframe with a prybar. </p><p>Here is a mid-way pic. This was when I got the rear all bolted up. I got a scratch & dent MM bumpsteer kit. I don't care about the bumpsteer aspect of it. I just wanted something with heim joints. Couldn't afford the FTBR kit at the time.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]427958[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>When I got it back in the car I got everything torqued down. Then I put the driveshaft back on. Torquing those bolts is a pain in the ass. The damn driveshaft gets in the way of and socket or wrench you put in there. Got it done though. Lots of blue loc-tite so it doesn't come loose again. </p><p></p><p>Then I put the brakes and the rest of that boring stuff back together. </p><p></p><p>Measured my pinion angles again. Ended up with +2.5 on the pinon flange which perfectly cancels out my +2.5 on the trans. I used all the washers that came with the kit with one on top, and the rest below. The thicker locating bushing on the bottom of course. Damn near as high as it will go. </p><p></p><p>So far I have ZERO and I mean ZERO drive-line vibrations at any speed. Such a nice feeling to have that gone. I should note that my tires are also road-force balanced. I had even worse vibrations before I had that done. Wheel hop is gone and it pulls straight now. </p><p></p><p>My only complaint is the gear noise. It's obnoxious when there is light load on the gears. Starts at around 35mph and doesn't drone itself out until 65mph. I have lots of dynamat in the entire trunk and under the seats and acoustic foam so I guess I will just deal with it. </p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Here is the assembly ready to go back in the car</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="FiveOhJoe, post: 12733313, member: 142535"] Yes all finished. Just been too lazy to make this post First order of business was to get the diff all fixed up. Hans at Dean's Performance took care. of that. Then all I had to do was put the milled diff cover on. I used the Ford Gray RTV that is for diesel oil pans since it seems most guys have good luck with it. 200 miles later and it's still dry. Then I filled it with about 1.7L of Amsoil Severe Gear and the ford friction modifier. [ATTACH=full]427955[/ATTACH] One of the things I wanted to do with the whole assembly out is clean up the splattered and caked on diff fluid all over the bottom of the car. It was terrible, took 12 cans of brake cleaner to remove all of it, and that was after scraping it away with a plastic scraper. Replaced the fuel filter while I was in there. Here is where I got a little worried, as you will see in the pic, the body of the car has been smashed in. Looks like it was done to accommodate the SRA that was in there at one point. Am I right about that? [ATTACH=full]427956[/ATTACH] Everything went pretty smoothly with all the bushings. I would say the hardest part is actually getting the whole thing back into the car. I had to take a 120gritt flap wheel to the inner mounting ears on the IRS and shave down the delrin and aluminum sleeve by about half of it's thickness to get it back in the car. My car was in an accident in a former life on the rear passenger side that messed up the passenger side front mounting ear on the car. Port-a-power wouldn't open it up enough. [ATTACH=full]427957[/ATTACH] I got it in by lining up and installing the back mounting locations first. There was no way I was getting the front in first, not with what i had to clearance to get the damn thing back in. Ditched the MM low profile bolts for a pair of brand new OEM bolts. To get the front larger bolts in, the key is to slowly pull it in with leverage. I used a thick screwdriver in the mouting holes that were closest to being lined up and pried at that to get the other side perfectly straight to slide the new big bolt in. I had to hammer it in at the end. Then the other one went in with some prying at the subframe with a prybar. Here is a mid-way pic. This was when I got the rear all bolted up. I got a scratch & dent MM bumpsteer kit. I don't care about the bumpsteer aspect of it. I just wanted something with heim joints. Couldn't afford the FTBR kit at the time. [ATTACH=full]427958[/ATTACH] When I got it back in the car I got everything torqued down. Then I put the driveshaft back on. Torquing those bolts is a pain in the ass. The damn driveshaft gets in the way of and socket or wrench you put in there. Got it done though. Lots of blue loc-tite so it doesn't come loose again. Then I put the brakes and the rest of that boring stuff back together. Measured my pinion angles again. Ended up with +2.5 on the pinon flange which perfectly cancels out my +2.5 on the trans. I used all the washers that came with the kit with one on top, and the rest below. The thicker locating bushing on the bottom of course. Damn near as high as it will go. So far I have ZERO and I mean ZERO drive-line vibrations at any speed. Such a nice feeling to have that gone. I should note that my tires are also road-force balanced. I had even worse vibrations before I had that done. Wheel hop is gone and it pulls straight now. My only complaint is the gear noise. It's obnoxious when there is light load on the gears. Starts at around 35mph and doesn't drone itself out until 65mph. I have lots of dynamat in the entire trunk and under the seats and acoustic foam so I guess I will just deal with it. Here is the assembly ready to go back in the car [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Cobra Forums
The Terminator
Driveline
IRS Overhaul wtih FTBR kit!
Top