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IRS vs SRA
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<blockquote data-quote="blacksheep-1" data-source="post: 12642333" data-attributes="member: 33936"><p>`OK, I'm going to try and post this once more, look at the rear suspension of a mustang, it has 4 links, two lower trailing arms which are parallel, and two upper which are at angles to each other. If you want to stiffen the bottom arms go for it, no real problem there, the major issue with mustang suspension is the upper arms. Those arms are used to locate (center ) the rear end in the car along with controlling movement front to back. Whenever and engineer decides to use one piece to do two things, it usually turns out bad, thus the case herein. The upper arms oppose each other whenever the rearend moves up or down, they "fight" each other to keep the rear centered. they are designed to center the rear "AT THE STOCK RIDE HEIGHT AND WHILE THE SUSPENSION IS AT REST". So say if you've lowered the car, you've already screwed up what the engineers have tried to accomplish by forcing those two arms to bind against teach other. This will show up in a handling characteristic known a "snap oversteer" when exiting a corner, it may be mild to wild, depending on what else you have done the the car. It is created by those upper arms trying to force the rearend back to center on corner exit. If you put hard bushings, or God forbid heim joints in those upper arms you are just creating a bigger problem. If you locate some of the upper arms that fit these cars, that have the oblong bushings you will be better off. To use a panhard bar to try and help this situation out, just adds another, competing arc to those two, already opposing arcs and creates more suspension bind. I have seen guys do this and you can actually jack up one side of the car by cranking on the adjustable panhard bar...don't do it!</p><p>That leaves you with a truck arm which is what camaros have used from about 83- 0-whatever, it's simple and works like a champ, two trailing arms, a panhard bard bar and the truck arm, brilliantly simple, effective and you wonder why Ford didn't do this.</p><p>Aside from that there are Watts linkages and of course the IRS, but they are getting expensive these days. All of which work well, but the truck arm is probably the lest expensive way to go with the most results. I've seen guys add a panhard bar and remove one of the upper control arms, which actually works well, but to be done right the arm needs to be parallel with the lower arms and centered in the chassis.</p><p>Here is an example of a rear suspension that I would have built (but with coilovers, and a better designed swaybar..which he later does) but of course, you couldn't do this in a car with a back seat. leaf through this it's in there someplace, with pics. You should get the idea, bars are parallel and non binding.</p><p></p><p><a href="http://forums.corral.net/forums/road-racing-auto-x/1073317-building-open-track-road-racing-car.html" target="_blank">Building a Open Track, Road Racing Car... - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="blacksheep-1, post: 12642333, member: 33936"] `OK, I'm going to try and post this once more, look at the rear suspension of a mustang, it has 4 links, two lower trailing arms which are parallel, and two upper which are at angles to each other. If you want to stiffen the bottom arms go for it, no real problem there, the major issue with mustang suspension is the upper arms. Those arms are used to locate (center ) the rear end in the car along with controlling movement front to back. Whenever and engineer decides to use one piece to do two things, it usually turns out bad, thus the case herein. The upper arms oppose each other whenever the rearend moves up or down, they "fight" each other to keep the rear centered. they are designed to center the rear "AT THE STOCK RIDE HEIGHT AND WHILE THE SUSPENSION IS AT REST". So say if you've lowered the car, you've already screwed up what the engineers have tried to accomplish by forcing those two arms to bind against teach other. This will show up in a handling characteristic known a "snap oversteer" when exiting a corner, it may be mild to wild, depending on what else you have done the the car. It is created by those upper arms trying to force the rearend back to center on corner exit. If you put hard bushings, or God forbid heim joints in those upper arms you are just creating a bigger problem. If you locate some of the upper arms that fit these cars, that have the oblong bushings you will be better off. To use a panhard bar to try and help this situation out, just adds another, competing arc to those two, already opposing arcs and creates more suspension bind. I have seen guys do this and you can actually jack up one side of the car by cranking on the adjustable panhard bar...don't do it! That leaves you with a truck arm which is what camaros have used from about 83- 0-whatever, it's simple and works like a champ, two trailing arms, a panhard bard bar and the truck arm, brilliantly simple, effective and you wonder why Ford didn't do this. Aside from that there are Watts linkages and of course the IRS, but they are getting expensive these days. All of which work well, but the truck arm is probably the lest expensive way to go with the most results. I've seen guys add a panhard bar and remove one of the upper control arms, which actually works well, but to be done right the arm needs to be parallel with the lower arms and centered in the chassis. Here is an example of a rear suspension that I would have built (but with coilovers, and a better designed swaybar..which he later does) but of course, you couldn't do this in a car with a back seat. leaf through this it's in there someplace, with pics. You should get the idea, bars are parallel and non binding. [url=http://forums.corral.net/forums/road-racing-auto-x/1073317-building-open-track-road-racing-car.html]Building a Open Track, Road Racing Car... - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum[/url] [/QUOTE]
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