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Is there any way to eliminate the coolant crossover to thermostat housing hose?
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<blockquote data-quote="SlowSVT" data-source="post: 12907203" data-attributes="member: 20202"><p>Whether this results in a reduction in temperature I cannot say but logic seems to favor that it will. It will reduce the pumping losses and allow for a higher volume of coolant to pass thru the engine. That in turn will reduce the likelihood of Cavitation at the impeller causing bubbles to form which is something you don't want air pockets forming in the cylinder heads which tends to burn things up but that should not be an issue anything south of 7-8 grand on the tach. Every bump, curve, sudden change in contour, sharp edge and small opening in the system will get turbulent which increases the likelihood of cavitation at the pump and creates more drag. Water is heavy and doesn't like to change direction. Making the passages bigger slows things down and less turbulent. Smooth/radii every place along the water path. Even the outlets on the back of the heads can get cleaned-up for better flow. This whole system is why I am comfortable under driving the water pump.</p><p></p><p>IMO you can never "overkill" on a cooling system. Heat is more of a contributing factor in engine failures then most people realize.</p><p></p><p>There is one cooling mod in the cylinder head I have found but I can't post pics because I can't get my camera inside the water jacket passages on the deck. This is something you can do if you ever take the heads off. A dremel can be used to open-up and smooth the coolant passages between the exhaust ports which is the hottest place in the whole engine. Don't touch the outside passages because you want to encourage the coolant <u>between</u> the ports and not <u>around</u> them (the outside already gets plenty of coolant). Our engine needs all the help it can get around the exhaust ports and guides which are exposed directly to the exhaust blast which is the main culprit of the dreaded "tick". This should help lower the temperature of the exhaust valves, seats and guides. </p><p></p><p>It kinda fun looking at all these technical aspects of an engine then address them like solving a puzzle............ as long as you don't do something wrong :nonono: </p><p></p><p>Cool hobby no doubt :rockon:</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SlowSVT, post: 12907203, member: 20202"] Whether this results in a reduction in temperature I cannot say but logic seems to favor that it will. It will reduce the pumping losses and allow for a higher volume of coolant to pass thru the engine. That in turn will reduce the likelihood of Cavitation at the impeller causing bubbles to form which is something you don't want air pockets forming in the cylinder heads which tends to burn things up but that should not be an issue anything south of 7-8 grand on the tach. Every bump, curve, sudden change in contour, sharp edge and small opening in the system will get turbulent which increases the likelihood of cavitation at the pump and creates more drag. Water is heavy and doesn't like to change direction. Making the passages bigger slows things down and less turbulent. Smooth/radii every place along the water path. Even the outlets on the back of the heads can get cleaned-up for better flow. This whole system is why I am comfortable under driving the water pump. IMO you can never "overkill" on a cooling system. Heat is more of a contributing factor in engine failures then most people realize. There is one cooling mod in the cylinder head I have found but I can't post pics because I can't get my camera inside the water jacket passages on the deck. This is something you can do if you ever take the heads off. A dremel can be used to open-up and smooth the coolant passages between the exhaust ports which is the hottest place in the whole engine. Don't touch the outside passages because you want to encourage the coolant [U]between[/U] the ports and not [U]around[/U] them (the outside already gets plenty of coolant). Our engine needs all the help it can get around the exhaust ports and guides which are exposed directly to the exhaust blast which is the main culprit of the dreaded "tick". This should help lower the temperature of the exhaust valves, seats and guides. It kinda fun looking at all these technical aspects of an engine then address them like solving a puzzle............ as long as you don't do something wrong :nonono: Cool hobby no doubt :rockon: [/QUOTE]
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Is there any way to eliminate the coolant crossover to thermostat housing hose?
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