Just received BBK Progressive rate lowering springs now what?

Sierra

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Is there anything else I need or should replace while im putting in the lowering springs.

I do not have enough money this summer to put in new shocks/struts/caster camber plates.

I was told that the BBK progressive rate springs do not require caster camber plates because it is not that drastic of a drop.

But is there anything else I should install along with the springs?

I will be putting on about 800 miles on the springs before I get new shocks/struts.
 

98cobrancali

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theres nothing else you need, I have the same springs on my 98, still got stock shocks and struts, no caster camber plates, mine is pretty good and low, looks a lot better than stock
 

28

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Originally posted by 98cobrancali
theres nothing else you need, I have the same springs on my 98, still got stock shocks and struts, no caster camber plates, mine is pretty good and low, looks a lot better than stock

Got any pics?:shrug: I just got mine (same springs) and can't wait to get them on....How much a drop and difference did ya get?
 

Lee

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I would replace the spring insulators with polyeurethane insulators while I was doing the work if I were you. I'd also probably wait on installation until I had the shocks because the higher rate springs will not be controlled well with the stock shocks and I also hate doing things twice. My .02
 

Cobro

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Springs are primarily responsible for keeping the tire in contact with the road surface over bumps and dips. Lowering the Mustang does more than make for good looks, it also lowers the car's center of gravity and reduces body roll. Like most things, lowering can be taken too far whereby the suspension is left with too little range of motion. Ideally the car should be lowered between 1 and 1.5-iches front & rear. The spring-rate should be a function of how you drive. While a race-only car can have an exceptionally stiff suspension, street-driven Mustangs can go as high as 700+ ft/lbs spring rate in the front - but be prepared to spill your coffee (and possibly bend a rim or two) when you hit an unexpected pot-hole. Too stiff a spring will not allow the wheel to comply with real-world road irregularities (ever see a pot-hole on a race track?)

If you are going to use high performance springs, try to wait until you can afford the shocks as well. Performance springs store more potential energy when they are compressed. They need a shock with more rebound damping to keep the car from bouncing all over the place after you hit a bump. Really good shocks like Tokico or Koni are adjustable so you can tune your shocks to the springs. Performance springs with stock shocks usually feel sloppy on high speed undulations. Performance spring’s quicker rebound characteristics also seems to wear out stock shocks quickly making them get even worse.

The bottom line, Get shocks and struts, the Tokico non-adjustable are the best deal out there"Price wise" If you go with springs only, at about 7000 miles your stock springs and struts will be doing nothing ,DEAD.

If you wait and put them on at a later date, The springs and struts ....you will notice a night and day difference in handing and overall ride quality!!!

Think of it this way, if you are paying for install, doing the whole set up will only cost you once! If you do it at different times (Two labor costs!!
 
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98cobrancali

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Originally posted by 28 fangs
Got any pics?:shrug: I just got mine (same springs) and can't wait to get them on....How much a drop and difference did ya get?

my computer is down right now and all the pics were on it, but I had them backed up on another, so when I get it back up I can post a pic, but it is lowered pretty good, I want it a little lower but it looks better than the 4x4 look got about 2 inches I would say, but I do have 18's on it also, oh wait my sig pic is small but that is it
 

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