K member/alignment questions

[wheelhopper]

My AJE heavy duty unit is built similar to the UPR one but with a little more tubing. When I spoke to AJE they said their standard unit was not built for road course use but the HD unit was. Looking at the unit once I got it, it doesn't look to me like it's strong enough. I hope that since I know nothing about making a steel structure stiff and they should, that they are correct.

The two reasons I went with the AJE were one, I could use the stock control arms AND the unit is supposed to be road course worthy. We'll see.

The rear of the k-member bolts to the frame right where the brace is located that we're talking about. It's hard to believe there could be very much flex right there.

Darin, I feel the same way about the UPR kit. After taking into account how it mounts in place I don't think I would have a problem. Even if the UPR K member is not as strong as the MM K, it should be stronger than stock. Also it is chromoly which is stronger than mild steel, so it does not have to be equall in visible beefiness. Besides, if I feel like my front end is getting loose I'll have no problem welding in a few reinforcement bars. Looks like we will both be testing the waters.

Dale, I may be modifing the MM aluminum bushings to work with my UPR K member. I have not taken the time to see what I have to do. I'll let you know.

 

[sunburned]

What day, Dale?

Friday, probably around 5. I don't have a ride to go anywhere, so I'll probably be hanging out at the shop, stop by on your way home from work.

 

[03'Darin]

You guys should really look at how easy it is to modify the strut to spindle mounting holes versus grinding on the strut tower. It may be slightly more work to do initially but it gives you so much more adjustability and you didn't have to grind the body of the car.

 

[wheelhopper]

I'll check it out Darin. I have got to do something before I go to VIR at the end of March to get some decent camber #'s.

 

[gcassidy]

You guys should really look at how easy it is to modify the strut to spindle mounting holes versus grinding on the strut tower. It may be slightly more work to do initially but it gives you so much more adjustability and you didn't have to grind the body of the car.

Are you talking about just elongating the holes on the strut that the bolts go through? I saw someone somewhere post a photo of that once. Or something a little less...umm....Mickey Mouse?

 

[sunburned]

You guys should really look at how easy it is to modify the strut to spindle mounting holes versus grinding on the strut tower. It may be slightly more work to do initially but it gives you so much more adjustability and you didn't have to grind the body of the car.

I'd much rather grind on the body than the struts. Because there is so little clearance between my coilovers and tires, if I did grind the strut holes, the tires would rub on the lower spring perch = bad news.

 

[TT91]

Heres an answer for your camber problems, and you will find the same with D&D kits. UPR and D&D are too cheap to make a specifc year a-arm for our cars, and we call know the new edge cars have a wide track width then fox bodies, so UPR and D&D desided to say **** it, and saved some money on only one length of A-arms. So in essense, you just shortened your track width up front, and are now limited to crap camber. If you really want to feel like crap, call MM and ask them for some tech help, tell them your have their CC plates and your having camber problems, then when they ask you what brand K-member and A-arms your have....be honest, they wont hang up, but the phone will go dead for a few seconds.

 

[wheelhopper]

Took care of my camber issue today. Went to Excessive Motorsports and had the bolt holes in the strut opened up, very slightly. It is amazing how a small amount of room was able to make it possible for me to go from a best of -.8 camber to over -2 if I need it. The holes were opened up about 1/8 of an inch. Drilling out the bolt holes was also much easier than the option of grinding out the strut tower opening.

 

[03'Darin]

Took care of my camber issue today. Went to Excessive Motorsports and had the bolt holes in the strut opened up, very slightly. It is amazing how a small amount of room was able to make it possible for me to go from a best of -.8 camber to over -2 if I need it. The holes were opened up about 1/8 of an inch. Drilling out the bolt holes was also much easier than the option of grinding out the strut tower opening.

Good to hear. As I mentioned I learned that trick years ago when I was racing American Sedan. It only takes a small amount of material removel at the holes to make a big impact on the camber adjustment plus you don't have to do any grinding on the car.

 

[sunburned]

Heres an answer for your camber problems, and you will find the same with D&D kits. UPR and D&D are too cheap to make a specifc year a-arm for our cars, and we call know the new edge cars have a wide track width then fox bodies, so UPR and D&D desided to say **** it, and saved some money on only one length of A-arms. So in essense, you just shortened your track width up front, and are now limited to crap camber. If you really want to feel like crap, call MM and ask them for some tech help, tell them your have their CC plates and your having camber problems, then when they ask you what brand K-member and A-arms your have....be honest, they wont hang up, but the phone will go dead for a few seconds.

Are you sponsored by MM or do you just like bashing people that don't have as much money to spend on suspension parts as you?

Glad to hear the problem was fixed Doug.

 

[TT91]

Are you sponsored by MM or do you just like bashing people that don't have as much money to spend on suspension parts as you?

Glad to hear the problem was fixed Doug.

Sponsored...no...Do I encourage the use of parts best suited for the application, yes. I learned the hard way, no harm in sharing. Funng thing is Im the only one who replied that actually had an honest answer as to why he had camber problems, yet you seem to take offense to it.....odd

 

[sunburned]

Sponsored...no...Do I encourage the use of parts best suited for the application, yes. I learned the hard way, no harm in sharing. Funng thing is Im the only one who replied that actually had an honest answer as to why he had camber problems, yet you seem to take offense to it.....odd

Not offended. Your answer didn't offer any sort of help, just telling him that his parts were crap.

 

[BlackBolt9]

Not offended. Your answer didn't offer any sort of help, just telling him that his parts were crap.

Actually his post did help. He explained that the control arms were too short to get the correct amount of camber because UPR designs their arms to "work" with any year fox chassis even though on the newer cars it reduces track width. If this doesn't explain to you why he can't get enough camber you need think about the design of the suspension some more.

As far as calling the parts crap: If the shoe fits wear it.

 

[03'Darin]

I'd much rather grind on the body than the struts. Because there is so little clearance between my coilovers and tires, if I did grind the strut holes, the tires would rub on the lower spring perch = bad news.

I missed this post before. I have regular stuts on my car and there is a ton of clearance, the thought of clearance issues with coil overs never crossed my mind. Obviously if clearance is limited you wouldn't want to grind in that area. Good point for C/O guys.

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

You can also get a little track width and coil over to tire clearance back by running a 1/4" MM spacer up front. If you find that negative camber is still elusive with those arms and K, perhaps the spacers would allow you to grind a little off the strut without the tire hitting the C/O.

The nice thing about the 1/4" spacers is that they are small enough to allow enough thread engagement with stock lug studs and nuts.

Track width enhances turn in also, a wider track just turns in better. (way over simplified I know:dw