KB w/ 15# dyno

boostin'03

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A 9" filter is not going to make you loose 80 HP, just kb trying to make a buck. I have a 12" drop in filter and am making 586 rwhp with a 10.6 a/f ratio.
 

toofast4u

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Originally posted by boostin'03
A 9" filter is not going to make you loose 80 HP, just kb trying to make a buck. I have a 12" drop in filter and am making 586 rwhp with a 10.6 a/f ratio.

That is very conservative what size pulley?
 

toofast4u

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I was thinking about getting a wideband instead of doing the fuel pressure gauge as it will be more informative. The only reason I don't want to do the fuel pressure gauge is its like 250 dollars so I would rather do one or the other. Does it matter what exhaust pipe you mount the wideband on? I would guess the X section would be the best place for the sensor to monitor both banks but I would expect you wouldn't want it after the cats.
 

Shadowgray03

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Originally posted by coleman
i'm going to try to get the ver2.0 if possible ... but not until i resolve this current dilemna.

a good A/F gauge (wideband O2 sensor) might have highlighted my exhaust leak much earlier.
You could have just logged O2 sensor voltages as well which would indicate a leak or slow to respond o2. The problem with the wide band I guess is where it is mounted it its on one side and you have a leak on the other it may not be of much help.

On a side note coleman, im using a JLP CAI which only has a 9" filter as well, I also dont think the additional 3" diff between a 9" and 12" will cause a near 100hp loss.
 

ray95

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Originally posted by toofast4u
I was thinking about getting a wideband instead of doing the fuel pressure gauge as it will be more informative. The only reason I don't want to do the fuel pressure gauge is its like 250 dollars so I would rather do one or the other. Does it matter what exhaust pipe you mount the wideband on? I would guess the X section would be the best place for the sensor to monitor both banks but I would expect you wouldn't want it after the cats.

I use my FP gauge all the time when I'm driving. It is a gauge that is essential to blown cars. If anything were to happen with the fuel supply you'll know right away and have the chance to shut it down immediately. A wideband is a great addition to a gauge setup. You can tell exactly how the car is responding to real-time driving condition/self tuning and not just dyno sessions. However it's not that useful if you don't have control over any of your tuning tools. The BAP will help with the fuel supply. You can always record the driving conditions and a/f readings and send the info in along with your chip to have it modified if needed.

I have bungs welded on both the left and right sides of my x-pipe. If you only want to do one, then you need to install it on the driver side of the pipe before the cats. This side tends to lean first on mustangs.
 

2003snake

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Originally posted by boostin'03
A 9" filter is not going to make you loose 80 HP, just kb trying to make a buck. I have a 12" drop in filter and am making 586 rwhp with a 10.6 a/f ratio.

Sometimes I wonder if all the vacuum hoses are going where they should.

It would be so awesome if someone could do a write up one this.

Like something with a picture with numbers on each hose, then another where they all go with the coresponding number.

(hint hint) :D :D
 

2003snake

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Originally posted by boostin'03
A 9" filter is not going to make you loose 80 HP, just kb trying to make a buck. I have a 12" drop in filter and am making 586 rwhp with a 10.6 a/f ratio.

Sometimes I wonder if all the vacuum hoses are going where they should.

It would be so awesome if someone could do a write up one this.

Like something with a picture with numbers on each hose, then another where they all go with the coresponding number.

(hint hint) :D :D
 

coleman

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so, with the new assumption that my clutch is slipping.
maybe that can account for both the low #s & waviness on the top end?!?

i'm getting my new spec3 installed Monday-Tuesday & re-dynoing Saturday -- i hope that gives me ample time to break it in.
 

2003snake

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Originally posted by coleman
so, with the new assumption that my clutch is slipping.
maybe that can account for both the low #s & waviness on the top end?!?

i'm getting my new spec3 installed Monday-Tuesday & re-dynoing Saturday -- i hope that gives me ample time to break it in.

They blamed the "waviness" at the end of the graph on mine on my slipping DR's
 

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