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SVT Shelby GT500
Kennebell throttle Body issues
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<blockquote data-quote="Willie" data-source="post: 16622367" data-attributes="member: 14133"><p>I know EXACTLY how you feel. It's easy to throw in the towel when the frustration creeps in. I've had mine for two or three years (can't recall exactly) and I'd never tuned a mono before, so I was slightly intimidated. That turned to frustration as I kept trying to figure it out. And with literally no help from pro tuners (they like to keep their "solutions" to themselves), it became a game of trial and error. Months turned into years. I too, swapped the 168 out for a dual bore several times. I had to fab an adapter to do this but I was frustrated enough at times to have the desire to make one. And like you, the desire to drive her was no longer there. I had more issues than just the failsafe, FYI..... but I kept at it. I did finally find a few tuners that did help. With their help and more trial and error, I finally got it working perfectly. And more importantly, I gained the knowledge!</p><p></p><p>I sent you a PM.....</p><p></p><p>Robert, you're spot on! This thread is old and super long and I don't blame anyone for not reading all the posts, so cudos to you for bringing up the topic of springs, etc.....</p><p></p><p>I think the problem is the blades shutting too quickly is this: When you're into the go pedal, then let up, the vacuum in the intake instantaneously rises and literally helps to "pull" the blade, making it slam shut. And the bigger the blade, the harder it slams. I could be wrong... this is just a thought of mine. And these huge TB's are a bear to get to idle because every minute rotation of the blade off throttle increases the space for the air to get through disproportionately >> too much air, so the PCM is constantly trying to adjust. This can cause surging, hunting, etc.... The one thing I had to change, among many, was to retard my idle timing by a significant amount. That helped bring the idle speed down.</p><p></p><p>Willie</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Willie, post: 16622367, member: 14133"] I know EXACTLY how you feel. It's easy to throw in the towel when the frustration creeps in. I've had mine for two or three years (can't recall exactly) and I'd never tuned a mono before, so I was slightly intimidated. That turned to frustration as I kept trying to figure it out. And with literally no help from pro tuners (they like to keep their "solutions" to themselves), it became a game of trial and error. Months turned into years. I too, swapped the 168 out for a dual bore several times. I had to fab an adapter to do this but I was frustrated enough at times to have the desire to make one. And like you, the desire to drive her was no longer there. I had more issues than just the failsafe, FYI..... but I kept at it. I did finally find a few tuners that did help. With their help and more trial and error, I finally got it working perfectly. And more importantly, I gained the knowledge! I sent you a PM..... Robert, you're spot on! This thread is old and super long and I don't blame anyone for not reading all the posts, so cudos to you for bringing up the topic of springs, etc..... I think the problem is the blades shutting too quickly is this: When you're into the go pedal, then let up, the vacuum in the intake instantaneously rises and literally helps to "pull" the blade, making it slam shut. And the bigger the blade, the harder it slams. I could be wrong... this is just a thought of mine. And these huge TB's are a bear to get to idle because every minute rotation of the blade off throttle increases the space for the air to get through disproportionately >> too much air, so the PCM is constantly trying to adjust. This can cause surging, hunting, etc.... The one thing I had to change, among many, was to retard my idle timing by a significant amount. That helped bring the idle speed down. Willie [/QUOTE]
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Kennebell throttle Body issues
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