Looking for a MT82 clutch DIY
- Thread starter DocSean
- Start date
Some info that may help:
Clutch alignment tool
I didn't do a write up but there are a few gotchas.
Disconnect the battery.
There is a wiring harness that runs along the top of the transmission. You will want to unplug all connections including where the O2 sensors attach. May need to access these connections from the top between the firewall and back of intake.
Remove mid-pipes and stock H pipe or O/R H or X. (Cat-back can stay in place but I would place some old wrags around the muffler tips to prevent damaging the rear lower valance.)
Remove front O2 sensors.
Remove shifter and tail housing mount.
(optional) Drain the trans fluid.
Remove starter. The top bolt is a PITA.
Support the transmission with a trans jack or other setup. I used a large floor jack with a block of wood.
Remove the cross member.
Remove driveshaft.
Disconnect the line to the throwout bearing. The connection is on the driver side of the trans and has a clip that must be pried out with a small screw driver. Brake fluid will leak so be prepared to mop/catch it.
Remove the heat shield located by the stock cats. No need to tear those up.
Remove the transmission to block bolts.
Wiggle the transmission out.
Remove the pressure plate and stock clutch.
(optional) Replace the flywheel if your kit comes with one.
Install the new clutch/pressure plate.
(optional) The dual disc setups require the spacer between the throwout bearing and trans to be removed. You will need to hit Lowes or Home Depot and procure some shorter bolts. 10mm head.
(optional) Refill the transmission while it is out of the car. 2.7qts. I used RP 75w-90.
Reassemble everything in reverse order.
Bleed the throwout bearing down. Add more fluid to the master cylinder reservoir (shared with the bake system). Pump the peddle vigorously. The initial try will case the peddle to stay on the floor as there is no line pressure to push it back up and the helper spring prevent is from returning to it's normal position. Either use your foot or hand to return the peddle back into position. On my car, I had to rig up a device to pull a vacuum on the master cylinder to get the throwout bearing to bleed properly. There is no bleeder valve so if pumping the peddle doesn't get it done then you may have to do the same.
Test drive the car. The clutch will require some break-in time. I allotted 500 miles before hamming on it.
That should be about it. :beer:
Clutch alignment tool
I didn't do a write up but there are a few gotchas.
Disconnect the battery.
There is a wiring harness that runs along the top of the transmission. You will want to unplug all connections including where the O2 sensors attach. May need to access these connections from the top between the firewall and back of intake.
Remove mid-pipes and stock H pipe or O/R H or X. (Cat-back can stay in place but I would place some old wrags around the muffler tips to prevent damaging the rear lower valance.)
Remove front O2 sensors.
Remove shifter and tail housing mount.
(optional) Drain the trans fluid.
Remove starter. The top bolt is a PITA.
Support the transmission with a trans jack or other setup. I used a large floor jack with a block of wood.
Remove the cross member.
Remove driveshaft.
Disconnect the line to the throwout bearing. The connection is on the driver side of the trans and has a clip that must be pried out with a small screw driver. Brake fluid will leak so be prepared to mop/catch it.
Remove the heat shield located by the stock cats. No need to tear those up.
Remove the transmission to block bolts.
Wiggle the transmission out.
Remove the pressure plate and stock clutch.
(optional) Replace the flywheel if your kit comes with one.
Install the new clutch/pressure plate.
(optional) The dual disc setups require the spacer between the throwout bearing and trans to be removed. You will need to hit Lowes or Home Depot and procure some shorter bolts. 10mm head.
(optional) Refill the transmission while it is out of the car. 2.7qts. I used RP 75w-90.
Reassemble everything in reverse order.
Bleed the throwout bearing down. Add more fluid to the master cylinder reservoir (shared with the bake system). Pump the peddle vigorously. The initial try will case the peddle to stay on the floor as there is no line pressure to push it back up and the helper spring prevent is from returning to it's normal position. Either use your foot or hand to return the peddle back into position. On my car, I had to rig up a device to pull a vacuum on the master cylinder to get the throwout bearing to bleed properly. There is no bleeder valve so if pumping the peddle doesn't get it done then you may have to do the same.
Test drive the car. The clutch will require some break-in time. I allotted 500 miles before hamming on it.
That should be about it. :beer:
i think this depends on the brand twin disk used mcloed suggested leaving the stock spacer with there clutch and i have on the few that i have done with the end result being stock engagement position
Last edited:
Good info. RAM requires it to be removed.
Apologize for the delay...work has kept me fairly busy.
Basically it is a 1 person vacuum bleeder you can get at Autozone or Harbor Freight:
Brake Bleeder & Brake Bleeder Vacuum Pump Kit
Brass Hose Barb Rigid Male Adapter
I took a drill and made a hole in the catch container cap and installed a brass barb like in the link.
Take the master cylinder cap off and pull out the rubber seal.
Cut a small cross in the middle of the seal and place it back on the master cylinder.
Put the modified cap on the master cylinder. Get some thick rubber bands and secure the cap to the master cylinder. You will have to double/tripple wrap them to apply enough pressure.
Secure a hose to the vacuum pump and bronze nipple.
Pump vigorously for 1 minute.
Hop back in the car and check the clutch pedal. If it doesn't feel right, rinse and repeat.
--Attached image of what to modify on the cap.--
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