Lowering the g/f's 5.0....couple quick Q's

[Harley#356]

Hey everyone,

Lowering the g/f's 5.0 hopefully on Sunday. Was wondering who's done it themselves, and if you needed a spring compressor. Found this how-to and shows you don't need one...

2011 Mustang GT 5.0 Ford Racing Lowering Springs Install - LRS Blog - Read Here Shop Here

I've done dozens of lowering kits on HD's and L's and never needed one, just wanted to make sure the 5.0 was doable that route as well. If anybody has any other how-to's please post them up.



One more question for the alignment, is a camber kit needed or anything special? Haven't seen many mention it in past threads.

Thanks :thumbsup:

 

[99riocobra]

Nope no spring compressor needed. I read through that same article beforehand as a guideline to see if there would be any suprises. Super simple install imo.

 

[1 srt4 U]

I have done it with those springs. The 1.5" drop. I did use a spring compressor and install was fairly easy. Be sure re install the jounce bumpers back on the assembly correctly and be careful with the top strut mount. It is filled with little bearings and can pop off easily.


Now that you know the little problems I had haha

 

[grnenvy]

Hey

He's right about the bearings if the upper strut mount comes apart.
I just did the Steeda sport springs and Pan hard bar it was very easy and my car looks bad ass! The pan hard bar is a must IMOP it centers the rear the way it should have been from the factory. I went with Steeda stuff they sell nothing but the best. Plus the ride is very good and it handle's much better. I'll be posting up pics once the wife can help me.

I have done it with those springs. The 1.5" drop. I did use a spring compressor and install was fairly easy. Be sure re install the jounce bumpers back on the assembly correctly and be careful with the top strut mount. It is filled with little bearings and can pop off easily.


Now that you know the little problems I had haha

 

[Harley#356]

Thanks guys. Could you explain the upper strut mount a little more with what could come apart? I'm not too familiar with them, all my wrenching experience has been on Lightnings and Harley trucks. I've done around a dozen engine swaps, tons of drop kits, etc., a car's suspension is foreign territory, so looking forward to working on it...something new for a change.

Also how about the alignment. Did you guys need a realignment after dropping the car, and did you need a set of caster plates or any special hardware, or did the car just need a minor tweak with reusing the factory hardware and aftermarket springs?

I'm getting springs and panhard from Evo on saturday.

 

[grnenvy]

yo

Becareful if they offer you the K spring from Ford Motorsport there a nice spring but your car will sit very low and hit going up and down driveways and speed bumps. My budy had them in his car for one day before he tore them out! Also if you go to low you will need camber bolts. This car doesn't have C/C plates thats old school. If you want to stick with motorsport parts go with the P spring. I like the Steeda springs the best! The Sport springs thats whats on my car. Make sure you get a Pan hard bar that has energy suspension ends so there's no noise. Once again I like the Steeda on car adjustable pan hard bar. My alignment was within specs with there springs.

When taking the the strut apart try not to pull apart the top mount if so there's a bearing in there that can come apart. It's not a sealed bearing and you could loose some of the ball bearings. The one side I did was fine but the other side did come apart but I cought it and had to put it back together.
Have fun.

OTE=Harley#356;10536283]Thanks guys. Could you explain the upper strut mount a little more with what could come apart? I'm not too familiar with them, all my wrenching experience has been on Lightnings and Harley trucks. I've done around a dozen engine swaps, tons of drop kits, etc., a car's suspension is foreign territory, so looking forward to working on it...something new for a change.

Also how about the alignment. Did you guys need a realignment after dropping the car, and did you need a set of caster plates or any special hardware, or did the car just need a minor tweak with reusing the factory hardware and aftermarket springs?

I'm getting springs and panhard from Evo on saturday.[/QUOTE]

 

[Harley#356]

Install is done! I'll try to get pics up this weekend.

Roush springs front & rear, Steeda panhard, and Roush exhaust. JLT CF intake and Evo tune should arrive tomorrow.

Springs were easier than I expected. Use that how-to I linked, the only thing that was missing was you need a 17mm for holding the swaybar endlinks from spinning...no biggie at all. I did have to run out to buy a deep 18mm since every one of my friggin sets skips the 16 & 18mm sockets lol

Car looks 100000x's better, and the ride is incredible. Just ever so slightly firmer than stock, still extremely comfortable and smooth, but better handling and stance. HIGHLY recommend it.

Steeda panhard, the design sucks with the jamb nuts on the extreme ends, you can't fit the wrench in to tighten the passenger side jamb nut once it's adjusted, had to unbolt the bar to tighten the jamb nut then bolt it back in.

 

[grnenvy]

Hmm

There's know need to remove the bar just grind down the wrench a little and it fits in there perfect!

Install is done! I'll try to get pics up this weekend.

Roush springs front & rear, Steeda panhard, and Roush exhaust. JLT CF intake and Evo tune should arrive tomorrow.

Springs were easier than I expected. Use that how-to I linked, the only thing that was missing was you need a 17mm for holding the swaybar endlinks from spinning...no biggie at all. I did have to run out to buy a deep 18mm since every one of my friggin sets skips the 16 & 18mm sockets lol

Car looks 100000x's better, and the ride is incredible. Just ever so slightly firmer than stock, still extremely comfortable and smooth, but better handling and stance. HIGHLY recommend it.

Steeda panhard, the design sucks with the jamb nuts on the extreme ends, you can't fit the wrench in to tighten the passenger side jamb nut once it's adjusted, had to unbolt the bar to tighten the jamb nut then bolt it back in.

 

[FISHTAIL]

Just wanted to point out that link only works if you are keeping the stock struts. I bought a set of koni's for mine to go with the steeda springs that are getting ordered this weekend. Because the shock/strut manufactures haven't started making struts with a 2011 bolt pattern yet, you'll need to use 2010 GT500 mounts. So that writeup won't quite work up front.

Still should be a simple install. I should have mine in sometime in the next two weeks. I can do a writeup if there is any interest.

 

[Harley#356]

There's know need to remove the bar just grind down the wrench a little and it fits in there perfect!

if it were a piece I'd be adjusting frequently I'd either do that or sell it and buy the Evo bar that looks a lot easier to adjust. Since its pretty much a 1 time setup it was just a PITA but didn't want to wreck one of the wrenches in my set for it, my luck it'd be one I needed next weekend to crank on something heavy and snap it from needing to be ground down so far lol. Either way, not the best thought out design for Steeda.

 

[grnenvy]

Yes

Yes I agree not the easiest to adjust but I only had to grind a little off the wrench to make it fit in there. You never need to adjust it again once it's adjusted right the first time. It's not an adjustible shock or air bags. :beer:

if it were a piece I'd be adjusting frequently I'd either do that or sell it and buy the Evo bar that looks a lot easier to adjust. Since its pretty much a 1 time setup it was just a PITA but didn't want to wreck one of the wrenches in my set for it, my luck it'd be one I needed next weekend to crank on something heavy and snap it from needing to be ground down so far lol. Either way, not the best thought out design for Steeda.