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SN95 Cobras
Manually turning on high speed fan to cool down between staging (dragstrip)
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<blockquote data-quote="I_like_turtlez" data-source="post: 17036199" data-attributes="member: 204906"><p>I can see the benefit of manually turning on the high speed fan to cool down faster between drag passes</p><p></p><p>And good, whenever you're dealing with a circuit that goes directly into the PCM you NEED to solder & heat-shrink, those wires operate in mere millivolts/milliohms, it's easy to deep-fry a PCM</p><p></p><p>165F is honestly too cold, modern engines like these are designed to operate around 200-215F; below 180F you start to get condensation building up in the oil/crankcase, it'll often present as a white sludge under valve covers or on a dipstick</p><p></p><p>Engine efficiency also nosedives, closed-loop idle and operation occurs around 170F for most vehicles</p><p></p><p>Running a cooler thermostat was a popular trick back in the 1960's when every engine was cast-iron from top to bottom, they struggled with temps on hot summer days; our all-aluminum engines dissipate heat much faster by comparison(obviously boost will create a lot more heat)</p><p></p><p>You'll probably be fine as a dedicated drag car that gets constant oil changes but not sure I'd daily drive one this way</p><p></p><p>Last summer I was driving mine home stuck in traffic for 600 miles while it was 108F outside with a 26 year old radiator, I don't get the sensation these cars have cooling issues when naturally aspirated & maintained</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Edit: What's your blower setup anyway, I meant to ask a while back. I think it would be pretty cool to "Terminator" my car, would hurt a lot of Scatpack's feelings</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="I_like_turtlez, post: 17036199, member: 204906"] I can see the benefit of manually turning on the high speed fan to cool down faster between drag passes And good, whenever you're dealing with a circuit that goes directly into the PCM you NEED to solder & heat-shrink, those wires operate in mere millivolts/milliohms, it's easy to deep-fry a PCM 165F is honestly too cold, modern engines like these are designed to operate around 200-215F; below 180F you start to get condensation building up in the oil/crankcase, it'll often present as a white sludge under valve covers or on a dipstick Engine efficiency also nosedives, closed-loop idle and operation occurs around 170F for most vehicles Running a cooler thermostat was a popular trick back in the 1960's when every engine was cast-iron from top to bottom, they struggled with temps on hot summer days; our all-aluminum engines dissipate heat much faster by comparison(obviously boost will create a lot more heat) You'll probably be fine as a dedicated drag car that gets constant oil changes but not sure I'd daily drive one this way Last summer I was driving mine home stuck in traffic for 600 miles while it was 108F outside with a 26 year old radiator, I don't get the sensation these cars have cooling issues when naturally aspirated & maintained Edit: What's your blower setup anyway, I meant to ask a while back. I think it would be pretty cool to "Terminator" my car, would hurt a lot of Scatpack's feelings [/QUOTE]
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Manually turning on high speed fan to cool down between staging (dragstrip)
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