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SN95 Cobras
MM Full Length Subframe Connectors Installed
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<blockquote data-quote="dodint" data-source="post: 15637284" data-attributes="member: 184382"><p>One of the first things people recommend when modifying these cars is to install some subframe connectors to stiffen the chassis. This has benefits for drag cars and road course cars alike, and even non-track can benefit from a little less flex. They're a fairly basic modification but I haven't seen a lot of install pictures out there so I thought I would contribute something and share these. </p><p></p><p>You'll notice that my factory frame rails were crushed and had to be rebuilt. Unfortunate, but maybe seeing the damage will help reinforce the importance of using the correct jack points and proper jacking equipment. The rework added about $450 of fabrication labor to what should have been a relatively cheap upgrade.</p><p></p><p>I ordered the Maximum Motorsport full length subframe connectors and had them sent to a local race shop. The connectors I went with are here: <a href="http://www.maximummotorsports.com/MM-Full-Length-Subframe-Connectors-1979-04-powdercoated-P585.aspx" target="_blank">http://www.maximummotorsports.com/MM-Full-Length-Subframe-Connectors-1979-04-powdercoated-P585.aspx</a></p><p></p><p><img src="http://nathangess.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/s-hammer.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p><img src="http://nathangess.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/s-hammer2.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Looks like someone crushed them down using them as in improper jack point. It wasn't me, I've been using the LCAs to get the wheels on and off. The shop basically had to rebuild them before putting the MM rails in:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://nathangess.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/IMG_1727.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Here is how the transmission flange mount integrates into the rails for the Cobra, the procedure is different than with a non-Cobra SN95. The directions from MM are very good and available online in their tech section:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://nathangess.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/transmout.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>He took it upon himself to paint the welds, which is a nice touch. I was going to do it myself in the garage with a rattle can job, but this is probably more thorough. The rails themselves are powdercoated but it has to be stripped off of the mating surfaces to weld effectively. You can see that he has a proper drive-on lift which is required for welding subframe connectors, unless you want to use something stacked under the wheels to support the weight of the car. The car must be resting on its own weight during installation or you'll weld the connectors in while the subframes are flexed and create a terrible bind in the car. </p><p></p><p><img src="http://nathangess.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/finished1.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p><img src="http://nathangess.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/finished2.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>The car 'feels' more solid when doing some interstate on ramp 'testing' but I haven't had it back on track yet. They add 27lbs to the weight of the car but I think the stiffness will more than make up for it. Rear seat delete will make up for it as well. </p><p>Unfortunately I will not be taking it to the track tomorrow like I planned0. He warned me of a busted passenger side axle seal and he was right, there was gear oil soaking the inside of the wheel. It must have happened during or after the last track day as it was fine when I tech'd the car last time. No big deal, the seal kits are cheap and I'll take care of it this weekend or next. I'll have to take my BMW 650i tomorrow which should be interesting in its own way.</p><p></p><p>If you happen to be in the Pittsburgh area the work was done at The Race Place and I highly recommend Bret and his team: <a href="http://www.theraceplacepa.com/" target="_blank">http://www.theraceplacepa.com/</a></p><p></p><p>This video is from before the connectors were put in, but gives you an idea of what kind of tracking I'm doing, best lap starts at 3:00: </p><p></p><p>[MEDIA=youtube]4edKi7FuCAw[/MEDIA]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="dodint, post: 15637284, member: 184382"] One of the first things people recommend when modifying these cars is to install some subframe connectors to stiffen the chassis. This has benefits for drag cars and road course cars alike, and even non-track can benefit from a little less flex. They're a fairly basic modification but I haven't seen a lot of install pictures out there so I thought I would contribute something and share these. You'll notice that my factory frame rails were crushed and had to be rebuilt. Unfortunate, but maybe seeing the damage will help reinforce the importance of using the correct jack points and proper jacking equipment. The rework added about $450 of fabrication labor to what should have been a relatively cheap upgrade. I ordered the Maximum Motorsport full length subframe connectors and had them sent to a local race shop. The connectors I went with are here: [URL]http://www.maximummotorsports.com/MM-Full-Length-Subframe-Connectors-1979-04-powdercoated-P585.aspx[/URL] [IMG]http://nathangess.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/s-hammer.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://nathangess.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/s-hammer2.jpg[/IMG] Looks like someone crushed them down using them as in improper jack point. It wasn't me, I've been using the LCAs to get the wheels on and off. The shop basically had to rebuild them before putting the MM rails in: [IMG]http://nathangess.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/IMG_1727.jpg[/IMG] Here is how the transmission flange mount integrates into the rails for the Cobra, the procedure is different than with a non-Cobra SN95. The directions from MM are very good and available online in their tech section: [IMG]http://nathangess.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/transmout.jpg[/IMG] He took it upon himself to paint the welds, which is a nice touch. I was going to do it myself in the garage with a rattle can job, but this is probably more thorough. The rails themselves are powdercoated but it has to be stripped off of the mating surfaces to weld effectively. You can see that he has a proper drive-on lift which is required for welding subframe connectors, unless you want to use something stacked under the wheels to support the weight of the car. The car must be resting on its own weight during installation or you'll weld the connectors in while the subframes are flexed and create a terrible bind in the car. [IMG]http://nathangess.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/finished1.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://nathangess.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/finished2.jpg[/IMG] The car 'feels' more solid when doing some interstate on ramp 'testing' but I haven't had it back on track yet. They add 27lbs to the weight of the car but I think the stiffness will more than make up for it. Rear seat delete will make up for it as well. Unfortunately I will not be taking it to the track tomorrow like I planned0. He warned me of a busted passenger side axle seal and he was right, there was gear oil soaking the inside of the wheel. It must have happened during or after the last track day as it was fine when I tech'd the car last time. No big deal, the seal kits are cheap and I'll take care of it this weekend or next. I'll have to take my BMW 650i tomorrow which should be interesting in its own way. If you happen to be in the Pittsburgh area the work was done at The Race Place and I highly recommend Bret and his team: [URL]http://www.theraceplacepa.com/[/URL] This video is from before the connectors were put in, but gives you an idea of what kind of tracking I'm doing, best lap starts at 3:00: [MEDIA=youtube]4edKi7FuCAw[/MEDIA] [/QUOTE]
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