Who here has been able to negotiate with dealer to save significant money? If so, was it new or used dealership? Was car new or used? How much money did you save? What was sticker? What tactics seem to work? Sorry for so many questions, just trying to understand how much people were able to cut into dealer price so later on I can have a good understanding.
Money saved from Negotiation tactics?
- Thread starter h777
- Start date
If you are buying new, you can ask someone for an X-plan code. People who work for Ford or associated companies get a number of X-plan codes to pass along to friends and relatives. Then find a dealer who will accept the X-plan code and price.
If you are buying used, you can play multiple dealers off against each other. Check on Ebay and other sites for low prices, then copy and show them to the dealer who has the car you want. Convince them that you will not pay more and will buy the car in the ad if they won't match or beat that price. Watch out for interest rates and add on costs that the dealer may try to slip past you. Read what you are signing and don't take the dealer's word for truth. Bring someone smart who has no interest in the car along to advise you. Good luck!
If you are buying used, you can play multiple dealers off against each other. Check on Ebay and other sites for low prices, then copy and show them to the dealer who has the car you want. Convince them that you will not pay more and will buy the car in the ad if they won't match or beat that price. Watch out for interest rates and add on costs that the dealer may try to slip past you. Read what you are signing and don't take the dealer's word for truth. Bring someone smart who has no interest in the car along to advise you. Good luck!
I bought my car at a no haggle dealer. Only paid invoice.
Have a realistic price set in your mind and stick to it. If it means walking out the door, do it. If they want to sell the car they will call you back, in most times before you even leave the lot.
Dont be so...
Before I get started in this, let me introduce myself. I am currently the Finance Director at a Toyota Dealership in the Top 15 in the nation for volume. We are currently selling 500 - 600 new vehicles a month. I have been in the car business for the last 10 years as a finance manager, special finance manager, new car manager, and used car manager. If I can be of any assistance to anyone on this board, I will be happy to provide that service.
Dont be so wrapped up in having a "strategy." My advice is to find the largest volume dealership in your area to buy your car at. Be real with the people there. Ask to speak directly with a manager instead of going through the back and forth. Ask to see the best price upfront based on the invoice. All of these ideas will save you both time and money. Dont assume that the dealer is lying to you before he does. If you see an invoice with a VIN # on it, then I can almost assure you that it is the real invoice.
Used cars are a little harder to negotiate on, beacause there is no set value for a used car. The books are a guide for the value, but a used car is only worth the amount someone is willing to pay for it (either dealer, or consumer). The difficulty with that is there is not a set cost for the car. You could research all of the sources (NADA, Kelly Blue Book, Edmunds, Black Book) and get all different numbers as to what the car is worth because they are each a guide to buying that car, but nothing is definite. There are also many different factors involved in the value of a used car that do not come into play with a new car. Mileage, condition, paintwork, age, etc. Finally a nice low milage preowned car is not easily reproducable. If you find a nice used car and the price seems reasonable then buy it.
In overall negotiation one thing is very important. You should negotiate the price of the car, or the cash difference of the car if you have a trade. Stay away from negotiating payments if at all possible. The reason for this is that payments are mathematically calculated. Unless you are experienced with amortization and calculating monthly payments based off of principle, APR and term, then do not get caught up with getting involved in this. If you have your own financing, get the price of the car worked out and plug all of those numbers into a term of payments, then the payment is what it is based on the mathematically caluculation. Work on the price of the car based on invoice, or what you feel is reasonable based on research for a used car.
If you have any questions please feel free to post here and I will respond.
Before I get started in this, let me introduce myself. I am currently the Finance Director at a Toyota Dealership in the Top 15 in the nation for volume. We are currently selling 500 - 600 new vehicles a month. I have been in the car business for the last 10 years as a finance manager, special finance manager, new car manager, and used car manager. If I can be of any assistance to anyone on this board, I will be happy to provide that service.
Dont be so wrapped up in having a "strategy." My advice is to find the largest volume dealership in your area to buy your car at. Be real with the people there. Ask to speak directly with a manager instead of going through the back and forth. Ask to see the best price upfront based on the invoice. All of these ideas will save you both time and money. Dont assume that the dealer is lying to you before he does. If you see an invoice with a VIN # on it, then I can almost assure you that it is the real invoice.
Used cars are a little harder to negotiate on, beacause there is no set value for a used car. The books are a guide for the value, but a used car is only worth the amount someone is willing to pay for it (either dealer, or consumer). The difficulty with that is there is not a set cost for the car. You could research all of the sources (NADA, Kelly Blue Book, Edmunds, Black Book) and get all different numbers as to what the car is worth because they are each a guide to buying that car, but nothing is definite. There are also many different factors involved in the value of a used car that do not come into play with a new car. Mileage, condition, paintwork, age, etc. Finally a nice low milage preowned car is not easily reproducable. If you find a nice used car and the price seems reasonable then buy it.
In overall negotiation one thing is very important. You should negotiate the price of the car, or the cash difference of the car if you have a trade. Stay away from negotiating payments if at all possible. The reason for this is that payments are mathematically calculated. Unless you are experienced with amortization and calculating monthly payments based off of principle, APR and term, then do not get caught up with getting involved in this. If you have your own financing, get the price of the car worked out and plug all of those numbers into a term of payments, then the payment is what it is based on the mathematically caluculation. Work on the price of the car based on invoice, or what you feel is reasonable based on research for a used car.
If you have any questions please feel free to post here and I will respond.
Users who are viewing this thread
