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My 2011 GT is getting a VMP Gen3R!!
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<blockquote data-quote="Fast_351" data-source="post: 16616379" data-attributes="member: 200202"><p>All done:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1702232[/ATTACH] </p><p></p><p>Uploaded all the pics and a couple movies of my blower install. <a href="http://fast351.com/11GT/blower/" target="_blank">11GT Supercharger Install</a> I did the VMP Gen3R budget kit. I also upgraded the oil pump gears and timing gear with MMR pieces while I had it halfway apart. Here are some of my observations:</p><p>• The instructions that come with the kit are decent but not complete. Watch videos. You will still need to do some analyzing on your own to figure things out. Don’t do this install if you’re not mechanically inclined.</p><p>• Tearing the engine apart goes pretty quick. I had the oil pump out of the car within 8 hours of popping the hood.</p><p>• When you get the intake off, TAPE OFF THE HOLE AT THE BACK OF THE VALLEY! Anything dropped here gets stuck behind the flywheel. I got lucky and avoided pulling the transmission. You might not be. I figure the tape will eventually let go with a few heat cycles.</p><p>• Pull the battery and tray to make valve cover removal easier. Not sure you can even do it without pulling the tray.</p><p>• Watch videos on Youtube for how to take the timing chains off. It’s different per generation.</p><p>• Buy or have a 10mm wrench you can bend up. Put a “Z” in the wrench so the bar is parallel to the box end. Just adding more angle to the box end will not allow you to put enough torque on the bolt to get it out.</p><p>• Drain the oil, and stuff a paper towel behind the pickup tube so if you do drop a bolt, it doesn’t go to the back of the oil pan.</p><p>• When you put your new pump gears in, use assembly lube so the engine will prime faster. Engine oil is too thin to prime it on the starter.</p><p>• I used a piece of cardboard with a hole in it and a slit to the edge to hold the pickup tube bolt and get it started in the oil pump. Then removed cardboard. This worked well.</p><p>• Spin the engine over a couple times with the oil pump bolts finger tight to center the pump. The bolts don’t locate the pump accurately. The engine will have all the valves closed so turning it over by hand isn’t an issue.</p><p>• When you put the timing chains back in, take a picture with your cell phone camera to see the blue marks on the chain to make sure they align. My inner chain was off a tooth. This is a much better time to catch this then when the car throws an error code and you have to tear it apart again.</p><p>• When you grind the cover, make sure you grind the entire rib off the cover. The manual picture shows it only going so far, but when I fit the spider I realized I had interference and had to grind the cover more in the car (I did it outside the car for the bulk of the work). Speaking of that, probably a good idea to test fit the spider and FEAD bracket before reinstalling the timing cover.</p><p>• Buy a real balancer installer. I bought the longer bolt from MMR and almost stripped my crank. Speaking of that, install the balancer with a ratchet instead of an impact.</p><p>• The fuel injector instructions in the manual are wrong. The fuel rail instructions are correct. You also have to rotate the injectors so the connectors are almost under the rail. They will hit the head if you try to go 90 degrees out like the instructions say.</p><p>• Before dropping the blower on, wire the intercooler pump radio intercept plug, the EGR and throttle body extension harnesses, and attach the brake vacuum to the blower. Getting at them will be difficult with the blower installed. I ended up removing the blower to run these after trying to sneak them under the elbow.</p><p>• Mount the intercooler at as much of a forward angle as you can get. This pushes the bottom towards the AC condenser. BTW, don’t bother removing the radiator, it gains you nothing.</p><p>• The bumper at least on my car needed to be trimmed a LOT. I have a GT/CS valence which didn’t help. Basically had to remove the vertical struts for both the valence and the bumper cover. I also had to cut a fair amount of material to get the bottom hose to clear. Plan on 2-3 hours for this. I had the bumper on and off a dozen times checking clearance.</p><p>• It is a good idea to prime the oil system on the starter before turning the fuel pumps back on. It took 20-25 seconds of cranking but I knew I had oil pressure before first startup.</p><p>• You will need some specialty tools for this job you may not have. They are not optional: 50-250 in.lb torque wrench, 3 jaw harmonic balancer puller if you’re doing OPGs, wobble extensions to reach hard to get to fasteners, small jewelers screwdriver or Exacto knife to depin the ECU harness and add the IAT wire.</p><p>• You SHOULD get a vacuum pump to refill your cooling and intercooler systems. Even though I used one, the car still sucked up a quart or two of coolant after the first drive. Between the spillage when I pulled the water pump and the intercooler system, I needed about 2.5 gallons of additional coolant. BTW, Prestone Dexcool is the correct coolant for anything that takes Motorcraft VC-3B. Advanced Auto has the concentrate for $20/gal.</p><p>• A hoist may not be required if you’re in your 20s and don’t mind laying on the ground, but I’m not and I would definitely not do this job without one.</p><p>• The VMP kit had a disturbing amount of extra bolts that don’t get used. It also had an extra molded hose which I assume is for different model years for the IC system.</p><p>• The VMP startup tune was right on. It idles and drives fine, no CELs, and my tuner said it’s good enough to go WOT if everything is installed right, which I did. I’m just waiting for some warmer weather to fine tune it.</p><p>• The only things that sucked is the dropped 6mm hex bit between the engine and transmission, and I didn’t discover the missing MAF extension harness until the last day. I ended up just extending the harness myself instead of waiting two days to start the car.</p><p>Total time to do the entire install was about 25 hours. 8 of that was the oil pump gears and extra time to do that disassembly/reassembly.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Fast_351, post: 16616379, member: 200202"] All done: [ATTACH=full]1702232[/ATTACH] Uploaded all the pics and a couple movies of my blower install. [URL="http://fast351.com/11GT/blower/"]11GT Supercharger Install[/URL] I did the VMP Gen3R budget kit. I also upgraded the oil pump gears and timing gear with MMR pieces while I had it halfway apart. Here are some of my observations: • The instructions that come with the kit are decent but not complete. Watch videos. You will still need to do some analyzing on your own to figure things out. Don’t do this install if you’re not mechanically inclined. • Tearing the engine apart goes pretty quick. I had the oil pump out of the car within 8 hours of popping the hood. • When you get the intake off, TAPE OFF THE HOLE AT THE BACK OF THE VALLEY! Anything dropped here gets stuck behind the flywheel. I got lucky and avoided pulling the transmission. You might not be. I figure the tape will eventually let go with a few heat cycles. • Pull the battery and tray to make valve cover removal easier. Not sure you can even do it without pulling the tray. • Watch videos on Youtube for how to take the timing chains off. It’s different per generation. • Buy or have a 10mm wrench you can bend up. Put a “Z” in the wrench so the bar is parallel to the box end. Just adding more angle to the box end will not allow you to put enough torque on the bolt to get it out. • Drain the oil, and stuff a paper towel behind the pickup tube so if you do drop a bolt, it doesn’t go to the back of the oil pan. • When you put your new pump gears in, use assembly lube so the engine will prime faster. Engine oil is too thin to prime it on the starter. • I used a piece of cardboard with a hole in it and a slit to the edge to hold the pickup tube bolt and get it started in the oil pump. Then removed cardboard. This worked well. • Spin the engine over a couple times with the oil pump bolts finger tight to center the pump. The bolts don’t locate the pump accurately. The engine will have all the valves closed so turning it over by hand isn’t an issue. • When you put the timing chains back in, take a picture with your cell phone camera to see the blue marks on the chain to make sure they align. My inner chain was off a tooth. This is a much better time to catch this then when the car throws an error code and you have to tear it apart again. • When you grind the cover, make sure you grind the entire rib off the cover. The manual picture shows it only going so far, but when I fit the spider I realized I had interference and had to grind the cover more in the car (I did it outside the car for the bulk of the work). Speaking of that, probably a good idea to test fit the spider and FEAD bracket before reinstalling the timing cover. • Buy a real balancer installer. I bought the longer bolt from MMR and almost stripped my crank. Speaking of that, install the balancer with a ratchet instead of an impact. • The fuel injector instructions in the manual are wrong. The fuel rail instructions are correct. You also have to rotate the injectors so the connectors are almost under the rail. They will hit the head if you try to go 90 degrees out like the instructions say. • Before dropping the blower on, wire the intercooler pump radio intercept plug, the EGR and throttle body extension harnesses, and attach the brake vacuum to the blower. Getting at them will be difficult with the blower installed. I ended up removing the blower to run these after trying to sneak them under the elbow. • Mount the intercooler at as much of a forward angle as you can get. This pushes the bottom towards the AC condenser. BTW, don’t bother removing the radiator, it gains you nothing. • The bumper at least on my car needed to be trimmed a LOT. I have a GT/CS valence which didn’t help. Basically had to remove the vertical struts for both the valence and the bumper cover. I also had to cut a fair amount of material to get the bottom hose to clear. Plan on 2-3 hours for this. I had the bumper on and off a dozen times checking clearance. • It is a good idea to prime the oil system on the starter before turning the fuel pumps back on. It took 20-25 seconds of cranking but I knew I had oil pressure before first startup. • You will need some specialty tools for this job you may not have. They are not optional: 50-250 in.lb torque wrench, 3 jaw harmonic balancer puller if you’re doing OPGs, wobble extensions to reach hard to get to fasteners, small jewelers screwdriver or Exacto knife to depin the ECU harness and add the IAT wire. • You SHOULD get a vacuum pump to refill your cooling and intercooler systems. Even though I used one, the car still sucked up a quart or two of coolant after the first drive. Between the spillage when I pulled the water pump and the intercooler system, I needed about 2.5 gallons of additional coolant. BTW, Prestone Dexcool is the correct coolant for anything that takes Motorcraft VC-3B. Advanced Auto has the concentrate for $20/gal. • A hoist may not be required if you’re in your 20s and don’t mind laying on the ground, but I’m not and I would definitely not do this job without one. • The VMP kit had a disturbing amount of extra bolts that don’t get used. It also had an extra molded hose which I assume is for different model years for the IC system. • The VMP startup tune was right on. It idles and drives fine, no CELs, and my tuner said it’s good enough to go WOT if everything is installed right, which I did. I’m just waiting for some warmer weather to fine tune it. • The only things that sucked is the dropped 6mm hex bit between the engine and transmission, and I didn’t discover the missing MAF extension harness until the last day. I ended up just extending the harness myself instead of waiting two days to start the car. Total time to do the entire install was about 25 hours. 8 of that was the oil pump gears and extra time to do that disassembly/reassembly. [/QUOTE]
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My 2011 GT is getting a VMP Gen3R!!
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