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2015+ Shelby GT350 Mustang
My Race Red Track Pack 2016 GT350
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<blockquote data-quote="Tob" data-source="post: 15243987" data-attributes="member: 83412"><p>Now that's an interesting lift. Is it rated by a testing agency outside the company that makes it?</p><p></p><p></p><p>So I sold my GT500 - it's gone. My focus is now solely on this car and I'm trying to pick at it when family obligations allow it and when the weather cooperates. With the wife home during her "Easter break" I figured I'd get a couple of things done. I've been itching to correct the front spoiler installation that the dealer did but it has been less than 40* here and Bendpak makes it clear that the lift should not be operated when temperatures are below 40* (arrgh!). So I knocked out a few easy ones. Some may not like the choices I'll be making with this car but so be it.</p><p></p><p>First up, the over-assissted clutch pedal spring (or spring<em>s</em> on the GT350). The only generation Mustang I've never owned or driven were the Farrah Fawcett abominations. The assist would be great if you just had major knee surgery or have extremely small/weak leg muscles. Far too dainty for my tastes (much like the shifter mechanism - nothing there but air) and apparently much of the enthusiast demographic as well. Early on, many were simply yanking the spring assembly from the clutch pedal. Some experimented with different rate springs. The consensus is that something needs to be there, if for anything, to keep the pedal all the way up once it is released from your foot.</p><p></p><p>It can be tricky to remove and apparently if you break any of the hardware you have to buy an entire pedal assembly in order to replace some simple pieces. So I carefully removed the assembly. Note - the Mustang GT uses a single spring while the GT350 uses two very different springs. The last photo shows what I changed my assembly to.</p><p></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]679034[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]679035[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]679036[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]679037[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>While the pedal is still rather "light" it feels far more linear. To whoever signed off on this one - swallow your pride, revisit heavier pedal assemblies and please choose more men that wear flannel shirts for your focus groups (callous hands should be mandatory too). And lay off the "but then it wouldn't be balanced" crap because the shifter is far too metrosexual as well. You aren't seeing the same level of complaint there because the aftermarket hasn't responded yet. When they do, and it won't be long, the Camaro shifter assemblies will be getting yanked as well.</p><p></p><p>Next up, debadging. While I think Ford designers absolutely crushed the minimalist look, I much prefer to fly under the radar when at all possible. The bright red paint doesn't help here but people are stupid and even if they can read they still want to yap about what they see. I'm still working on a custom side badge (if there weren't fender holes I'd simply remove the chrome <em>GT350</em> badges and be done with it). While I don't equate this car with a Ferrari, here's a video that shows some of the idiot mentality I seek to avoid.</p><p></p><p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xyg9Mc8B17E" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xyg9Mc8B17E</a></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Everything that gets removed goes into a box that the next owner can decide what to do with. So to start, the rear emblem. I picked up a blank FRPP decklid panel. Made by the same company that makes the production panels, these don't have the holes for the rear emblem. Four small screws need to be removed, you then pry the panel off (no adhesive, just clips), and detach the rear camera plug.</p><p></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]679038[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]679039[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>The Ford Racing panel was made about a month earlier than the one from the GT350.</p><p></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]679040[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]679041[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>Made by Tribar Manufacturing to some pretty exacting standards. <a href="http://www.tribarmfg.net/Welcome.html" target="_blank">Here's their website</a> if you're interested.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>For those that were wondering, it looks as though the emblems nubs that project out the back of the molding are then melted in place, or something along those lines. Here's the backside of a GT350 emblem...</p><p></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]679042[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Note the two light colored "mushroomed" tabs on the GT350 panel that don't exist on the FRPP one.</p><p></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]679043[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]679044[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Yes, naked. Bland. Just the way I like it.</p><p></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]679045[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>My favorite Ford Racing dealer sent me a note a few days ago. He also sells a slew of OEM parts and he knew I'd find this interesting...</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Perfect. The summer of '16 will bring forth all sorts of EcoBoosted GT350's. May they draw all the ire of the spit and ice cream crowd so I can slip by in non-Track Mode.:dw:</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>I added Redline Tuning's GT350 hood struts as well. Ford Racing came out with a kit (that I think is sourced through Hillbank) but early buyers were having issue with fasteners rotating. To me that smacks of them simply not doing their due diligence in terms of testing. Apparently, they have made a change to the hardware they include but that alone was enough for me to use Redline. I had them on my GT500 without issue and these are no different. Maintaining my "plain Jane" theme, I removed the Redline stickers, using every prostitutes cleaner of choice on the residual adhesive.</p><p></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]679046[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Redline includes a template and stepped drill bit that make easy work of placing a hole on the battery cover for the lower strut mount on the passenger side. First rate kit that I highly recommend.</p><p></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]679047[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Looks 100% OEM.</p><p></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]679048[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>I finished up by completing the install of the Ford Racing oil separators. I had a unique issue beyond the previously shown improperly molded separator top. The engineer from Ford Racing that was tasked with their design corresponded with me a few times and <em>really</em> took care of me. He was very understanding and offered some really great insight as well. I don't think he'd be bothered by me sharing this small portion of our conversation...</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Just the kind of data I think everyone would like to baseline from. Anyway, the separators blend in very well (just the way I like it) with the rest of the engine compartment. They really are nice pieces of work.</p><p></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]679049[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]679050[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Tob, post: 15243987, member: 83412"] Now that's an interesting lift. Is it rated by a testing agency outside the company that makes it? So I sold my GT500 - it's gone. My focus is now solely on this car and I'm trying to pick at it when family obligations allow it and when the weather cooperates. With the wife home during her "Easter break" I figured I'd get a couple of things done. I've been itching to correct the front spoiler installation that the dealer did but it has been less than 40* here and Bendpak makes it clear that the lift should not be operated when temperatures are below 40* (arrgh!). So I knocked out a few easy ones. Some may not like the choices I'll be making with this car but so be it. First up, the over-assissted clutch pedal spring (or spring[I]s[/I] on the GT350). The only generation Mustang I've never owned or driven were the Farrah Fawcett abominations. The assist would be great if you just had major knee surgery or have extremely small/weak leg muscles. Far too dainty for my tastes (much like the shifter mechanism - nothing there but air) and apparently much of the enthusiast demographic as well. Early on, many were simply yanking the spring assembly from the clutch pedal. Some experimented with different rate springs. The consensus is that something needs to be there, if for anything, to keep the pedal all the way up once it is released from your foot. It can be tricky to remove and apparently if you break any of the hardware you have to buy an entire pedal assembly in order to replace some simple pieces. So I carefully removed the assembly. Note - the Mustang GT uses a single spring while the GT350 uses two very different springs. The last photo shows what I changed my assembly to. [ATTACH=full]679034[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]679035[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]679036[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]679037[/ATTACH] While the pedal is still rather "light" it feels far more linear. To whoever signed off on this one - swallow your pride, revisit heavier pedal assemblies and please choose more men that wear flannel shirts for your focus groups (callous hands should be mandatory too). And lay off the "but then it wouldn't be balanced" crap because the shifter is far too metrosexual as well. You aren't seeing the same level of complaint there because the aftermarket hasn't responded yet. When they do, and it won't be long, the Camaro shifter assemblies will be getting yanked as well. Next up, debadging. While I think Ford designers absolutely crushed the minimalist look, I much prefer to fly under the radar when at all possible. The bright red paint doesn't help here but people are stupid and even if they can read they still want to yap about what they see. I'm still working on a custom side badge (if there weren't fender holes I'd simply remove the chrome [I]GT350[/I] badges and be done with it). While I don't equate this car with a Ferrari, here's a video that shows some of the idiot mentality I seek to avoid. [url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xyg9Mc8B17E[/url] Everything that gets removed goes into a box that the next owner can decide what to do with. So to start, the rear emblem. I picked up a blank FRPP decklid panel. Made by the same company that makes the production panels, these don't have the holes for the rear emblem. Four small screws need to be removed, you then pry the panel off (no adhesive, just clips), and detach the rear camera plug. [ATTACH=full]679038[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]679039[/ATTACH] The Ford Racing panel was made about a month earlier than the one from the GT350. [ATTACH=full]679040[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]679041[/ATTACH] Made by Tribar Manufacturing to some pretty exacting standards. [URL="http://www.tribarmfg.net/Welcome.html"]Here's their website[/URL] if you're interested. For those that were wondering, it looks as though the emblems nubs that project out the back of the molding are then melted in place, or something along those lines. Here's the backside of a GT350 emblem... [ATTACH=full]679042[/ATTACH] Note the two light colored "mushroomed" tabs on the GT350 panel that don't exist on the FRPP one. [ATTACH=full]679043[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]679044[/ATTACH] Yes, naked. Bland. Just the way I like it. [ATTACH=full]679045[/ATTACH] My favorite Ford Racing dealer sent me a note a few days ago. He also sells a slew of OEM parts and he knew I'd find this interesting... Perfect. The summer of '16 will bring forth all sorts of EcoBoosted GT350's. May they draw all the ire of the spit and ice cream crowd so I can slip by in non-Track Mode.:dw: I added Redline Tuning's GT350 hood struts as well. Ford Racing came out with a kit (that I think is sourced through Hillbank) but early buyers were having issue with fasteners rotating. To me that smacks of them simply not doing their due diligence in terms of testing. Apparently, they have made a change to the hardware they include but that alone was enough for me to use Redline. I had them on my GT500 without issue and these are no different. Maintaining my "plain Jane" theme, I removed the Redline stickers, using every prostitutes cleaner of choice on the residual adhesive. [ATTACH=full]679046[/ATTACH] Redline includes a template and stepped drill bit that make easy work of placing a hole on the battery cover for the lower strut mount on the passenger side. First rate kit that I highly recommend. [ATTACH=full]679047[/ATTACH] Looks 100% OEM. [ATTACH=full]679048[/ATTACH] I finished up by completing the install of the Ford Racing oil separators. I had a unique issue beyond the previously shown improperly molded separator top. The engineer from Ford Racing that was tasked with their design corresponded with me a few times and [I]really[/I] took care of me. He was very understanding and offered some really great insight as well. I don't think he'd be bothered by me sharing this small portion of our conversation... Just the kind of data I think everyone would like to baseline from. Anyway, the separators blend in very well (just the way I like it) with the rest of the engine compartment. They really are nice pieces of work. [ATTACH=full]679049[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]679050[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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