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The Terminator
Engine/Tuning
New corrosion protection option for Fluidyne, other aluminum radiators
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<blockquote data-quote="Jimmysidecarr" data-source="post: 10921154" data-attributes="member: 11681"><p>They are Aluminum but not all aluminum, the tanks are plastic, the core is aluminum. It is thicker aluminum than most light weight, larger than stock, race radiators however.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>I believe viewing a sacrificial anode, as used in an automotive cooling system to save aluminum from galvanic corrosion, as a band aid is flawed. </p><p></p><p>It is a proven low cost, extremely effective measure.</p><p></p><p>How can anyone possibly be "Addressing the problem more directly" than using a less active(hungry) fluid and adding a sacrificial anode?</p><p></p><p>"positive lead in the coolant, NOT touching the radiator" :dw: If the lead is in the coolant but not touching the radiator, how is that different than lead on the radiator and the coolant itself touching the radiator? :shrug: Electron flow will remain essentially unchanged. </p><p></p><p>Typically .3v is considered damaging. I believe even less than that can also be a serious issue. </p><p></p><p>If someone is using higher water percentages combined with light weight aluminum radiators, in my mind without a doubt all of the anti corrosion measures mentioned in this thread are reasonable and prudent.</p><p></p><p>I will totally agree that fresh coolant mixtures with fresh antifreeze will go a long way. But distilled water even dampened down from the calming effects of antifreeze is still a less desirable form of water than filtered, bottled, relatively low mineral drinking water.</p><p>The corrosion inhibitors in antifreeze even long life antifreeze, will be mostly expired after as little as 4 years, after which they should be flushed or drained out and replaced. Yet old antifreeze will protect against freezing and augment boil protection long after the coolant begins eating up it's containment. The softest metal goes first.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jimmysidecarr, post: 10921154, member: 11681"] They are Aluminum but not all aluminum, the tanks are plastic, the core is aluminum. It is thicker aluminum than most light weight, larger than stock, race radiators however. I believe viewing a sacrificial anode, as used in an automotive cooling system to save aluminum from galvanic corrosion, as a band aid is flawed. It is a proven low cost, extremely effective measure. How can anyone possibly be "Addressing the problem more directly" than using a less active(hungry) fluid and adding a sacrificial anode? "positive lead in the coolant, NOT touching the radiator" :dw: If the lead is in the coolant but not touching the radiator, how is that different than lead on the radiator and the coolant itself touching the radiator? :shrug: Electron flow will remain essentially unchanged. Typically .3v is considered damaging. I believe even less than that can also be a serious issue. If someone is using higher water percentages combined with light weight aluminum radiators, in my mind without a doubt all of the anti corrosion measures mentioned in this thread are reasonable and prudent. I will totally agree that fresh coolant mixtures with fresh antifreeze will go a long way. But distilled water even dampened down from the calming effects of antifreeze is still a less desirable form of water than filtered, bottled, relatively low mineral drinking water. The corrosion inhibitors in antifreeze even long life antifreeze, will be mostly expired after as little as 4 years, after which they should be flushed or drained out and replaced. Yet old antifreeze will protect against freezing and augment boil protection long after the coolant begins eating up it's containment. The softest metal goes first. [/QUOTE]
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New corrosion protection option for Fluidyne, other aluminum radiators
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