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Mustang Forums
2011-2014 Mustangs
Engine/Tuning
Nitrous Outlet plate kit (wet) vs JMS progressive (dry)
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<blockquote data-quote="CharlieR" data-source="post: 13007521" data-attributes="member: 140605"><p>Probably my car you watched, It just kinda ended up there. It moves in there a little bit I'm sure but it was easier than using tie wraps and anchoring it and then sealing a new hole in the intake tube. I've seen one kit that had a nozzel from a wet kit with the fuel side capped off and spraying through that. I'm not a flow engineer so can't tell ya if it makes any difference, but it's at 850-1100psi going into an airstream toward the TB It'll get there. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>Best 1/4 time was a 10.99@127 had a crappy 60' and an 1/8 of 7.19@101(Not @ home so logs aren't with me so time is by memory). Had to set progressive @ 30-40% to get it to leave(also had it spray through shifts, not my usual setting). And this reminds me of the only thing I don't like about it(but haven't seen an affordable progressive that doesn't do this). If you set it(like I usually do) to shut off @ shift points and you need the progressive it does it for each gear. So I try to use as little Progressive as I can. My choice is to use minimum delay(none if it'll take it, last ditch to try to hook), Ramp up rate(again as quick as it can take it I adjust this after getting to 40% start), but 1st I try the start % will turn it down to 40%.</p><p></p><p>I know they've sold a bunch of kits and had no complaints that I've heard but I guess everyone is being sneeky. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>The one thing I'd say if ya get a wet kit look into a fuel pump voltage booster, I've seen one data log from a wet kit(.052 jet) and it <strong>DID NOT GO LEAN</strong> but fuel pressure did drop from 50+ into the 40's, but A/F stayed safe. So I'd recommend the booster.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="CharlieR, post: 13007521, member: 140605"] Probably my car you watched, It just kinda ended up there. It moves in there a little bit I'm sure but it was easier than using tie wraps and anchoring it and then sealing a new hole in the intake tube. I've seen one kit that had a nozzel from a wet kit with the fuel side capped off and spraying through that. I'm not a flow engineer so can't tell ya if it makes any difference, but it's at 850-1100psi going into an airstream toward the TB It'll get there. :) Best 1/4 time was a 10.99@127 had a crappy 60' and an 1/8 of 7.19@101(Not @ home so logs aren't with me so time is by memory). Had to set progressive @ 30-40% to get it to leave(also had it spray through shifts, not my usual setting). And this reminds me of the only thing I don't like about it(but haven't seen an affordable progressive that doesn't do this). If you set it(like I usually do) to shut off @ shift points and you need the progressive it does it for each gear. So I try to use as little Progressive as I can. My choice is to use minimum delay(none if it'll take it, last ditch to try to hook), Ramp up rate(again as quick as it can take it I adjust this after getting to 40% start), but 1st I try the start % will turn it down to 40%. I know they've sold a bunch of kits and had no complaints that I've heard but I guess everyone is being sneeky. :) The one thing I'd say if ya get a wet kit look into a fuel pump voltage booster, I've seen one data log from a wet kit(.052 jet) and it [B]DID NOT GO LEAN[/B] but fuel pressure did drop from 50+ into the 40's, but A/F stayed safe. So I'd recommend the booster. [/QUOTE]
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Engine/Tuning
Nitrous Outlet plate kit (wet) vs JMS progressive (dry)
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