Nitrous ????'s

[5.4 speedster]

I have a 95 with fully built 331. I run 24 lb injectors and a 199lph inline tank. I want to run a 50 shot on my car until I can buy a blower. Which company would be best for this application?? Will the injectors and pump be enough?? My motor is 8:7:1 compression, will this be ok? How much time might this net me in the quarter mile?? Is a purge valve, blow down tube, window switch, and a bottle heater neccesary on such a small shot?? Also, I have never run nitrous before so let's say I am on the freeway doing 70 in 5th gear at around 2700 rpm's(I have 373's) and a supra pulls up. What is the proper way to use the nitrous? Do I engage it and go into fourth?? Or would it be better to go into third?? Please break down the sequence.


I know this is long but I just wanted to find out everything.

 

[joegt38]

I probably can't answer all the questions but 50 ain't enough you won't be happy with it. If you have a built block you through much more at it. Go with the N/X it has a lot of safety features.

 

[GR8WHITE]

1. NX wet kits are gr8 in your type setup. Although, the compression is really too low for nitrous. (N2O likes compression) It won't hurt anything, the shot just won't feel very strong, little sluggish. Wet shots are better for ensuring there is enough fuel in the mixture.

2. A 50 shot is very small for a built motor. I'd run a 100 at a minimum. That should net you about a second +/- in the ¼.

3. I would suggest a purge kit. It is helpful for getting the bad "air" out of the lines and ensuring an accurate N2O shot the complete trip down the track. The blow down tube is a "do by requirement" type thing. It may or may not be required by the track you frequent. If you're bottle is in the trunk and sealed where a leak won't bother you, I say skip it, unless the track mandates it. A throttle switch is a MUST on manual cars. It prevents spraying the car at part throttle and damaging the motor.

4. Keep it armed always if you feel like the interstate may have potential victims. The throttle switch won't cut the N2O on unless the pedal is to the floor. This way allows you to drop down a gear and spray the car without fumbling with buttons or switches, or simply lay it to the floor.

 

[5.4 speedster]

Thanks for the reply, can you break down the difference between the wet and dry kit??? I would most likely just get a remote bottle opener instead of just leaving it open. Also, can you list everything I will need to do to safely run nitrous on my car?? IE... spark plugs, timing, ignition box maybe?? What is a throttle switch?? Is that the same as a window switch?? How do I install it??

 

[RyClef331]

I ran a 125hp shot wet kit on my bone stock 94 for years. I'm currently building a 331 much like your for nitrous alone. I'll run a 200 2-stage set up on it. If i were you and you're just lookin for a fix, get a 125-150hp wet kit.

As for the difference between wet and drive, wet sprays nitrous and fuel in to the intake...taking everything out of the cars computer controled hands. With your 24lbers and inline pump, you'll be fine with this. Just retard your timing a couple degrees and have a blast. They're easy as hell to install yourself.

Dry kits just spray nitrous into the intake tract and rely on the car to sense the incoming oxygen and compensate for it by adding more fuel through the injectors.

If i were you, i'd just do a wet kit. You'll be plenty safe with your current combo. Your car won't even notice a 50shot...go big or go home. Just buy a wet kit for your car and install it as per the instructions and enjoy your new found power...just becareful b/c you'll blow the tires off it in the lower gears...i speak from experience. 2nd gear is useless...fun but useless

 

[GR8WHITE]

Actually the dry kits use N2O to create more fuel pressure, that's why they T into the fuel pressure regulator/vaccuum lines. This isn't a very exact way of keeping the proper amount of fuel though. The cars computer will only adjust for the N2O if it is sprayed infront of the MAF and IAT, so the EEC can read the increased flow of air and colder temperature air. It still can not adjust enough most of the time in this style application. Only on very small shots.

The wet kits mix N2O and fuel at the nozzle that sprays into the intake plumbing. It mixes better this way and also ensures enough fuel. This is why wet kits net more HP and TQ on same size shots.

There are many ways to run nitrous safely. Many depend on your knowledge of your car, how it reacts to nitrous, driving style, and several other variables. Please do not be offended, because I'm going to go from the point of you not being very experienced with much of this. Better to err on the side of safety.

A window switch cuts the N2O on and off at RPM settings you select.
A throttle switch will only activate the N2O at WOT (wide open throttle) once you set it. It is connected to the throttle linkage or butterfly on the TB.
An arming switch supplies electrical power to the entie N2O system.
Bottle openers and bottle blankets are both nice and help you, but are not necessary. Although the blanket will maintain an optimal bottle pressure.

I would suggest using both the throttle switch and window switch. I would go one heat range colder on the plugs and install an MSD ignition with coil. I would, if I were you, get the bottle blanket and opener for what you seem to want to use it for. I would spray a 100 wet shot. I would ony retard the timing if there was detonation. Your compression is so low you shouldn't have any, unless your tune is really aggressive.

 

[SWYZ721]

Besides the fact that your motor is fully built you have a great Compression Ratio for nitrous or any FI for that matter.

With your built engine and CR, I'd do a 100 shot minimum. Wet for sure. And with some timing taken off. Start small tho, hit the 75, see how you like it and then change it out and go up if you wanna.





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