oil cooler for fox bodies?

[03BlownSnake]

Ok so I got some readings for my cooling system, I used an infra-red laser/temp gun.
So just at idle, my t-stat opened at 182 degrees, so thats working.
water temp at the entry point of the radiator was 185 degrees
water temp at exit point was 152 degrees.
Keep in mind the shop temparature was only 82 degrees.
I did not drive and get readings cause I was on fumes, I forgot to get gas and I had to return the temp gun.
After I filled up with gas, the temps got up to 210 but I also didnt drive it very long so I dont know if it was going to stay there or keep creeping up

I installed the oil cooler behind the driverside fog light and it came out perfect. the kit was pretty simple to install and with the cooler and the lines, I had to add almost 2 more quarts of oil. So I now have a 6.5-6.8ish quarts of oil instead of just 5 quarts, which im sure isn't a bad thing.
I will have enough room to install a fan on the cooler which should help some.

My alternator is putting out 13.85v at idle, with all loads on, AC on max, headlights on, and my radio pretty loud (since I have an amp and subs, yada yada) My amp reading was kinda F'ed up tho, Sometimes I would get a 75 amp draw reading then it was only show 32 amps or so.. but the machine has been acting up lately so I dont think my alternator is acting up, but the tester.
Although it said I had a alternator ripple current form or wavepattern whatever its called, which cant be good, but again, I dont know if it was just the tester acting up, so I guess this test is a wash

 

[03BlownSnake]

I just F'ing realized I didn't take any pictures!!!
I'm going to have take some, I think I installed it pretty good considering the space I had to work with.
I also just ordered an electric fan that will bolt up to it, so hopefully by wednesday I'll post some pictures up

 

[tunedin302]

Ever consider adding a fuel cooler? Also, what about a Ntercooler CO2 spray kit for those spur of the moment races?

I have really been considering going the turbo route on my GT but a number of tuners have expressed to me the "big" heat issue that it presents. Mainly b/c the intercooler is put right in front of the radiator and does nothing but put a ton of hot air into the rad. I suppose this is in part what you are experiencing. I hope you figure it out and let us know the resolution b/c I would really like to go turbo and keep my current supercharger temps.

 

[stangbear427]

I wonder if using dual intercoolers (like the Nissan Skyline) on either side of the rad (like, where the fog lights are?) would work as well as the typical front and center that most Mustang turbo kits come with. They sure would let a lot more air through the rad, if they did.

 

[03BlownSnake]

Well, Im sure the blower set up might be a bit cooler under the hood cause there is less exhaust tubing under hood, but I also had the same overheating issue when I was supercharged, so I'm not completely buying into the turbo comes with a higher heat problem. but i dont know, maybe it does...
And about the other 2 coolers, I havent considered them, Once I fix this issue of mine of overheating in summer time, my car is done. Engine wise anyway.
The car puts out 500+ rwhp and 630 rwtq (on 91 octane and base timing at 10) and its capable of more if I turn the boost up, Currently its on 100 octane and 14degrees base and a bigger air fitler too, so Im sure its way over 550 to the wheels so yeah I'm happy with that, I really try not to race everyone on the streets I want to dyno it again soon, but Im sure its around 550-560 to the wheels and maybe abit closer to the 700 ft/lbs torque mark.

 

[stangbear427]

Well, dual coolers are a big investment at this point, but it can't be good to have your rad trying to cool hot fluid with hot air that just passed through the hot intercooler. I have no experience with this, but it seems logical to me that the intercooler covering half your rad might be part of the problem...? But then, if it were that big a deal, I'd also think they'd start packaging turbo kits differently intercooler-wise. So, maybe not. Who knows? Just my $.02

 

[93Cobra#2771]

There is also an optimum amount of distance the rad and intercooler should be spaced apart. Don't ask me what it is, though, as I have no idea. I imagine they are actually pretty close together, right?

Good work getting infrared temps, that will help you a lot in getting consistant readings/data to figure out what's helping and what isn't.

So just at idle, my t-stat opened at 182 degrees, so thats working.
water temp at the entry point of the radiator was 185 degrees
water temp at exit point was 152 degrees.
Keep in mind the shop temparature was only 82 degrees.

In other words, it was working exactly as it should with ambient temps of 82 degrees.

Now, do that same test after the car has some heat in it. Do some stop and go a driving, pull over, pop the hood, and get some readings then.

You know, I've seen people rig up washer fluid nozzles to hit the outside of the radiators in extreme conditions as a temporary fix. The water cools the rad much more efficiently. Just a thought for an emergency.

 

[tunedin302]

I also had the same overheating issue when I was supercharged

Allowing this statement to set in leads me to believe that it isn't so much an air getting to the rad problem like I suspected. Now, I would be concerned if there is a blockage of flow somewhere in your cooling system. Obviously the coolant coming out of the rad is about 30 degrees cooler than that going into it. It seems like there is not enough of that coolant being directed through the motor to keep it cool. This seems very odd since you have a high output WP. I would question the rotation of the waterpump and (more likely) a blockage or restriction somewhere in the motor.

 

[93Cobra#2771]

Of course, there is always the possibility of a head gasket seeping a little on you...

 

[tunedin302]

Of course, there is always the possibility of a head gasket seeping a little on you...

I don't believe he said he was losing any fluid though :shrug: This is certainly an interesting issue.

 

[03BlownSnake]

Of course, there is always the possibility of a head gasket seeping a little on you...

I have replaced them 2 times now though. I wasnt sure about them either, but same issue after I replaced them. I'm using the ARP bolt kit too so I am over torquing them a bit. I dont remember what I tightened them too, but I dont think its a gasket problem

 

[03BlownSnake]

I got the fan mounted today and took some quick pictures.
Dont mind how dirty the underside looks, lol
Its pretty much mounted behind the foglight on the driver side tilted so the air comming off the fan is actually pointed to exit the outside the vehicle completely and not to stay in the vehicle creating trapped hot air.
I wired it to my DCC controller and it seems to work perfect so far. starts off slow (10% under drive pulley option) and once the vehicle warms up it operates at as it should. Seems to pull plenty hot air out of that small cooler, so I'm hoping it should drop my temps abit.
Has anyone wired a small cooler fan to their DCC module before? Is it ok if I do that?
Well anyways, here are the pics...

 

[LEE93COBRA]

What kind of fan is it?

 

[03BlownSnake]

Its a Perma-Cool... 6" blade (#19127)

 

[93Cobra#2771]

Yes, it's OK to run the fan off the DCC. It can handle the pull easily. Friend of mine runs his that way as well. Lets your oil get up to temp quickly, then cools it just like the regular fan when it gets warm.

Git that air deflector back on the underside of the core support. Even at barely moving speeds, it can make a difference in airflow.

Latemodel restoration supply has them...

 

[stangbear427]

Git that air deflector back on the underside of the core support. Even at barely moving speeds, it can make a difference in airflow.

But it's so fugly.

You're right though, it does help a lot.

 

[Goodson]

That air deflector does more than force air to move above to the radiator. It creates a low pressure zone behind it which causes the air to move through the front side of the radiator and pull it out behind it on the engine side. I'd put it back on especially with the turbo setup creating so much heat. This is where it is function>form.

 

[93Cobra#2771]

Plus, you need to make sure the little rubber flaps on either side of your rad's tanks are still there. It helps seal the rad to the core support, keeping the hot air in the engine compartment from making it's way back in front of the rad by sneaking around the sides...