Ok Wheelhop, how do we fix it?

[PhantomX]

I should have remembered from when I had my SRT4 how bad the wheel hop can be in a FWD. So how do we solve it? New mounts? if so which ones? Trans mount to (pain the arse that one)? If so how hard is it to swap them out and who makes a nice set?

Any other help would be appreciated. The car is currently stock and every time I power shift 2nd it hops so bad. But hey it chirps 3rd pretty easy lol. Eventually the car will get, I think, stage 3. Tune, CAI, Exhaust, Front Mount, BOV, I think that's about it. Get it 300+ HP and should be good. But that will really make the wheel hop an issue.

 

[Troponin]

Edit, Didn't notice I was in this section. sorry!

 

[Nuked]

From what I have read, the rear motor mount should help tremendously. Looks like you have a 14, so odds are your mount is factory upgraded to the E-Focus mount. You can check via your build date if you received it. Anyhow those seem to "help" but usually only last 6 month to a year and are trash too. I am planning on the Steeda set or something similar. Tires also make a difference, as the stock F1's have a very stiff sidewall which helps handling, but doesn't help with wheel hop at all. I don't want to sacrifice any of the corner carving ability this car has, so mounts it is for me.

I know on my SRT4 it also wheel hopped (although nowhere near as bad as the ST) and I installed motor mount inserts which cured the problem. As far as I know no such inserts exist for the ST however.

SQ

 

[PhantomX]

Yeah I'm going to be doing a fair bit of autocross with this car and maybe some track time so I really don't want to give up my cornering abiiity. So it looks like motor mounts it is. I'm gonna do that and then sound symposer delete. I thought someone cut there stock muffler off as well and said it sounded good. Usually that's not the case but sometimes with a turbo car it's not to bad. I also did that to my SRT4, actually with that one I had a single 3" run to the back and out one side then had a dummy pipe made to make it look normal. No one every even noticed.

 

[Nuked]

There are vids on Youtube of the muffler delete. As long as you keep a catted downpipe on it you should be ok decible wise. I chose the Borla based on sound clips alone and couldn't be happier. The Ford Racing catback (made by Borla just with a resonator) sounds good as well, but hard to justify the extra 150 bux for FR on the tips! Exhaust did not do a whole lot for power in my opinion. Throttle response appears to be a tad better and the power delivery up top seems smoother to redline. The tune is hands down the best mod you can get for these cars. Complete night and day difference between it and stock. I have said this many times, the car should have came tuned like that stock!

As a former SRT owner you will understand the term, part throttle boost issues lol. After the tune I did notice some more compressor surge as opposed to stock, so I am guessing an upgraded BOV/Recirc Valve should help it.

SQ

 

[PhantomX]

Thanks Nuked appreciate the feedback. Who did the tune for your car? Did you do the FRPP tune or someone else? Always a bit scary on Turbo cars if someone doesn't tune it right. Steeda has a nice BOV for our cars for sub $200. Gonna check out the Borla as well. I've seen the Stage 2 stuff from FRPP (at Steeda) for about $1500. CAI, Exhaust and Tune. Seemed pretty good.

 

[TRBO VNM]

I have all stock mounts(with tsb) and stock suspension along with tires. I have no hop.

I think part of it is power. Same issue with terminator. Once I reached a certain power level I didn't have hop anymore. So getting a tune may help you out but every car is different.

 

[Nuked]

The FRPP tune comes loaded on a SD card which you install in the ProCal. I flashed it myself, very easy to do. Takes about 20 minutes or so. Main thing is to hook up a trickle charger to the battery so that the voltage does not drop during the flash upload. I haven't heard too many horror stories regarding catostrophic engine failures due to aftermarket tunes, so the majority should be safe. The FRPP tune is backed by the factory warranty, so that tells me it is very conservative to say the least. I come from the Evo world where you had full access to the ECU parameters via an 80 dollar cable. So that lead to alot of people thinking they were "tuners" and blowing some stuff up. Ford ECU is not hacked, so unless you spend the money on a protuner software from SCT or Cobb you can't tune it yourself.

 

[AJ@CFM]

We make a rear engine mount and it is the only adjustable mount of it's kind on the market! Check it out!

http://www.c-f-m.com/performanceparts/pc/CFM-Performance-Adjustable-Lower-Engine-Torque-Mount-for-2012-14-Focus-2013-14-Focus-ST-ST250-95p4379.htm#.VAoc7_ldUfg

 

[PhantomX]

Excellent thanks guys. I'm thinking either FRPP or Cobb both are really good.

 

[Nuked]

Yeah you can't go wrong with either. Cobb is probably the better long term investment, as you can use it to load multiple tunes from different sources. You can also data log with the Cobb device, where as the FRPP Pro Cal does not offer that. If I had to do it over again, I would have went with the Cobb, not because of the tune, but the added flexibility it gives.

SQ

 

[jymboslice]

I am all stock with a CPE stage II engine mount. I still get wheel hop but not as bad as when I had the factory mount. Waste of money, in my opinion. All it did was create a hell of a lot more NVH around 1000-1500 rpms.