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Mustang Forums
2011-2014 Mustangs
Driveline/Suspension
Opinions Please - 2011 Base GT w/ 3.73 gears
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<blockquote data-quote="Torch10th" data-source="post: 10690032" data-attributes="member: 15703"><p>When it comes to deals, you really have to decide what is good and what isn't. Tax differences between states can swing an OTD price by several thousand dollars in either direction. Not to mention some people have access to X, A, D plans etc depending on their career and affiliation with Ford.</p><p></p><p>My general rule of thumb for myself is that if the pricing is anywhere near invoice, the deal is good.</p><p></p><p>You have to realize how the game works. A dealership will not sell anything below what they paid for it. That's bad business. So unless you have one of the above mentioned plans that results in a kick-back to the dealer for selling below cost, you're likely never going to see anything under invoice. </p><p></p><p>At the same time you want to pay the least amount possible. So you've got to compromise a little bit.</p><p></p><p>If you haven't done so already, get online and order a brochure. It will come with a $750 customer cash voucher which can help you even that gap between the dealership making a profit and you getting the lowest price possible.</p><p></p><p>EDIT: Also forgot to mention, make sure you're asking about loyalty cash, military incentives etc. There's usually incentives in this area. I traded in a Ford on a new ford and asked for loyalty bonus to which I received an additional $1000.00 from ford on top of the $750 rebate that was on the 2011's at the time.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Torch10th, post: 10690032, member: 15703"] When it comes to deals, you really have to decide what is good and what isn't. Tax differences between states can swing an OTD price by several thousand dollars in either direction. Not to mention some people have access to X, A, D plans etc depending on their career and affiliation with Ford. My general rule of thumb for myself is that if the pricing is anywhere near invoice, the deal is good. You have to realize how the game works. A dealership will not sell anything below what they paid for it. That's bad business. So unless you have one of the above mentioned plans that results in a kick-back to the dealer for selling below cost, you're likely never going to see anything under invoice. At the same time you want to pay the least amount possible. So you've got to compromise a little bit. If you haven't done so already, get online and order a brochure. It will come with a $750 customer cash voucher which can help you even that gap between the dealership making a profit and you getting the lowest price possible. EDIT: Also forgot to mention, make sure you're asking about loyalty cash, military incentives etc. There's usually incentives in this area. I traded in a Ford on a new ford and asked for loyalty bonus to which I received an additional $1000.00 from ford on top of the $750 rebate that was on the 2011's at the time. [/QUOTE]
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2011-2014 Mustangs
Driveline/Suspension
Opinions Please - 2011 Base GT w/ 3.73 gears
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