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2012-2013 Boss 302 Mustang
Out of the ashes, a Phoenix is born (Boss 302 teardown and rebuild)
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<blockquote data-quote="ford20" data-source="post: 14535704" data-attributes="member: 140884"><p>At this point it was time to start breaking into the engine and seeing what is going on in there. So I started removing the front cover. I took the RTV off by hand and grabbed the front cover at the top and pulled it off. Off comes the front cover and I started working on removing the timing chains. </p><p></p><p></p><p><img src="http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/fordfan7689/20141104_184917_zps9f80699e.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p></p><p>I started with the LH side. First you rotate the crank until the keyway is at the 12 o’clock position and all 4 data matrix’s on the cams are facing up. From there you can remove the tensioner. Remember that the tensioner is still under pressure so unless you are holding it up or propping it up somehow it will probably fly off somewhere. When I removed the tensioner I found little bits of metal on the plunger (I guess that is what you would call it) as well as the timing chain guides.</p><p></p><p></p><p><img src="http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/fordfan7689/20141112_200024_zpsbb704875.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>Keyway at the 12 O’clock position</p><p><img src="http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/fordfan7689/20141112_200034_zps11c23866.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>Data Matrix on the top of the camshafts. All 4 have to be facing up. If they all aren’t facing up turn the crankshaft until the keyway is at the 12 o’clock position and all 4 are facing up.</p><p>From there you can remove the tensioner arms. You might have to rotate the crankshaft to release a little bit more tension in the chain so you can remove the timing chain guides. After that remove the 6 screws holding the phasers on and you can slide the phasers forward 2 inches. Make sure you depress the secondary tensioner and rotate it 90 degrees this way you can remove the phasers.</p><p></p><p></p><p><img src="http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/fordfan7689/20141112_202147_zps30d4ed05.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p></p><p> After that you can remove the secondary chain. That being said, I completely forgot to look for the timing mark on the LH side so I have no idea where it was which is bugging me. Anyway, when I looked at the timing chain on the RH side I noticed that it looks like the marks don’t line up. From best I can tell the dark link is supposed to be lined up with the indentation on the phaser. Can someone confirm if this is true or not?</p><p></p><p></p><p><img src="http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/fordfan7689/20141112_201605_zps42061bc5.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p></p><p>The procedure is basically the same for removing the RH timing chains except this time you turn the keyway to the 9 o’clock position. After the primary and secondary timing chains are removed, I slid off the crank sprocket followed by the oil pump. Then I went back up top and started removing the cams. The workshop manual is very clear about this since they say it a couple of times and have it written in bold. You have to remove the front camshaft bearing mega cap first or else you could damage the engine. Considering how good I am at damaging the engine just by starting and driving it I figured if I didn’t do this first I would end up cracking it in half somehow so what the hell. After that I slowly started loosening the bolts for the rest of the cam caps following the torqueing sequence this way I could remove whatever spring pressure was on the cams evenly. After removing the front mega cap I found some pretty bad scoring on the cam journals and once again I found some pretty big metal flakes on the camshafts. After removing all the cam caps I was able to pull the cams out and found scoring on almost all 32 journals. They are deep enough where you can feel them through the glove and your fingernail catches on them. I’m not certain how bad that is but that will be addressed later after talking to some people about the build plans. Anyway, onto more pictures.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Some pictures of the metal pieces on the cams:</p><p></p><p></p><p><img src="http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/fordfan7689/20141112_214927_zps506b7d5c.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p></p><p><img src="http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/fordfan7689/20141112_205950_zps50332d46.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p></p><p><img src="http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/fordfan7689/20141112_210216_zpsc582978e.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p></p><p><img src="http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/fordfan7689/20141112_210819_zps030b5889.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p></p><p>That being said when I cleaned off the cams and I saw this on all 4 cams. I am assuming that these marks are normal since they all have it but I just want to make sure that is the case. I also left the filters for the cams in there. </p><p></p><p></p><p><img src="http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/fordfan7689/20141112_205511_zps18551d7f.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]611935[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>After that I removed the crankshaft position sensor and the cylinder head temperature sensor. I cleaned up the heads a little bit and took the picture-o-shinyness</p><p></p><p></p><p><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7488/15592098398_25758d4879_b.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p></p><p>Well you are all caught up at this point. This weekend I would like to finally remove the oil cooler and open up the oil pump and see if anything is cracked in there or not. I just have to find a 13-16mm Allen Key so I can try and take off the oil cooler and I will be in business again and hopefully tear the engine down a lot more.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ford20, post: 14535704, member: 140884"] At this point it was time to start breaking into the engine and seeing what is going on in there. So I started removing the front cover. I took the RTV off by hand and grabbed the front cover at the top and pulled it off. Off comes the front cover and I started working on removing the timing chains. [IMG] http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/fordfan7689/20141104_184917_zps9f80699e.jpg[/IMG] I started with the LH side. First you rotate the crank until the keyway is at the 12 o’clock position and all 4 data matrix’s on the cams are facing up. From there you can remove the tensioner. Remember that the tensioner is still under pressure so unless you are holding it up or propping it up somehow it will probably fly off somewhere. When I removed the tensioner I found little bits of metal on the plunger (I guess that is what you would call it) as well as the timing chain guides. [IMG] http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/fordfan7689/20141112_200024_zpsbb704875.jpg[/IMG] Keyway at the 12 O’clock position [IMG] http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/fordfan7689/20141112_200034_zps11c23866.jpg[/IMG] Data Matrix on the top of the camshafts. All 4 have to be facing up. If they all aren’t facing up turn the crankshaft until the keyway is at the 12 o’clock position and all 4 are facing up. From there you can remove the tensioner arms. You might have to rotate the crankshaft to release a little bit more tension in the chain so you can remove the timing chain guides. After that remove the 6 screws holding the phasers on and you can slide the phasers forward 2 inches. Make sure you depress the secondary tensioner and rotate it 90 degrees this way you can remove the phasers. [IMG] http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/fordfan7689/20141112_202147_zps30d4ed05.jpg[/IMG] After that you can remove the secondary chain. That being said, I completely forgot to look for the timing mark on the LH side so I have no idea where it was which is bugging me. Anyway, when I looked at the timing chain on the RH side I noticed that it looks like the marks don’t line up. From best I can tell the dark link is supposed to be lined up with the indentation on the phaser. Can someone confirm if this is true or not? [IMG] http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/fordfan7689/20141112_201605_zps42061bc5.jpg[/IMG] The procedure is basically the same for removing the RH timing chains except this time you turn the keyway to the 9 o’clock position. After the primary and secondary timing chains are removed, I slid off the crank sprocket followed by the oil pump. Then I went back up top and started removing the cams. The workshop manual is very clear about this since they say it a couple of times and have it written in bold. You have to remove the front camshaft bearing mega cap first or else you could damage the engine. Considering how good I am at damaging the engine just by starting and driving it I figured if I didn’t do this first I would end up cracking it in half somehow so what the hell. After that I slowly started loosening the bolts for the rest of the cam caps following the torqueing sequence this way I could remove whatever spring pressure was on the cams evenly. After removing the front mega cap I found some pretty bad scoring on the cam journals and once again I found some pretty big metal flakes on the camshafts. After removing all the cam caps I was able to pull the cams out and found scoring on almost all 32 journals. They are deep enough where you can feel them through the glove and your fingernail catches on them. I’m not certain how bad that is but that will be addressed later after talking to some people about the build plans. Anyway, onto more pictures. Some pictures of the metal pieces on the cams: [IMG] http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/fordfan7689/20141112_214927_zps506b7d5c.jpg[/IMG] [IMG] http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/fordfan7689/20141112_205950_zps50332d46.jpg[/IMG] [IMG] http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/fordfan7689/20141112_210216_zpsc582978e.jpg[/IMG] [IMG] http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/fordfan7689/20141112_210819_zps030b5889.jpg[/IMG] That being said when I cleaned off the cams and I saw this on all 4 cams. I am assuming that these marks are normal since they all have it but I just want to make sure that is the case. I also left the filters for the cams in there. [IMG] http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/fordfan7689/20141112_205511_zps18551d7f.jpg[/IMG] [ATTACH=full]611935[/ATTACH] After that I removed the crankshaft position sensor and the cylinder head temperature sensor. I cleaned up the heads a little bit and took the picture-o-shinyness [IMG] https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7488/15592098398_25758d4879_b.jpg[/IMG] Well you are all caught up at this point. This weekend I would like to finally remove the oil cooler and open up the oil pump and see if anything is cracked in there or not. I just have to find a 13-16mm Allen Key so I can try and take off the oil cooler and I will be in business again and hopefully tear the engine down a lot more. [/QUOTE]
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Out of the ashes, a Phoenix is born (Boss 302 teardown and rebuild)
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