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2012-2013 Boss 302 Mustang
Out of the ashes, a Phoenix is born (Boss 302 teardown and rebuild)
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<blockquote data-quote="ford20" data-source="post: 14993814" data-attributes="member: 140884"><p>I just want to say, sorry for all of the typos, I am writing this on my Ipad since my laptop broke last January and I don't have the money to go and get a new one just yet. The next thing I did was turn my attention to the heads. As you may know, the Boss heads were no good. They could have been repaired but I felt it was better to pursue a different path with the heads. The problem with the Boss heads is that there really isn't a lot of machining that can really be done to them compared to the GT heads. There just isn't enough meat on the heads where you can do a good head job. Outside of that the Boss heads are very good for stock heads and flow excellently and are capable of creating some very good power numbers as is. That being said, I talked to Steve over at Tasca and he hooked me up with a set of 2015 GT heads and off they went to RGR for their stage 2 head job. Sometimes it is nice to know what kind of product you are getting <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite2" alt=";)" title="Wink ;)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=";)" /></p><p></p><p><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/757/20367610534_e780842b90_o.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Well, in the meantime I bought a whole bunch of FRPP parts to hurry along the build. Some of these parts JUST came out and Steve didn't even have pricing on some of them just yet but they are as follows:</p><p></p><p><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5730/20980436612_534ebbb279_b.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>The 2015 heads come bare with just valves, valve springs, and keepers so I also needed to get some roller followers along with the lash adjusters. I had the heads shipped to me and got them all ready to be put in. I have to say they are a work of art IMO. Trick Flow Valve Springs, RGR bronze valve guides Ferrea oversized valves, and a nice port work to the intake and exhaust ports along with some bowl work and a whole slew of things I am probably forgetting. </p><p></p><p><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/705/20477811308_c904998778_b.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5656/20937275385_bf5d2892fa_b.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p></p><p>That being said, there have been people noticing that their Cobra jet Intake Manifolds intake runners were much larger in size than the intake ports are on the heads. That will cause a little bit of loss in power than if the ports were matched in size.So I took some painters tape and grabbed my x-acto knife and traced the intake ports on the manifold and transferred that over to some cardboard. Well would you look at that</p><p></p><p><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/475/19810800084_2034950403_b.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/541/20245365620_925f3d403c_b.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Perfect fit! Don't mind me holding the piece on the head, if I had let it go, it would have fallen down the intake port and I really didn't want that to happen.</p><p></p><p>From this point I wanted to calculate my compression ratio so I needed to know the combustion chamber volume so I grabbed the tools needed (sorry no pictures of this). You need your spark plug as the spark plug takes up a specific volume in the combustion chamber, a piece of plexiglass with a hole cut in the center, some sort of way to measure the liquid going into the Combustion chamber (a syringe works as it has a marked volume on it), some vaseline and some water. The first thing that I did was to level the head so I grabbed a bunch of coffee filters I use to clean parts and folded them up until I got the heads nice and level. What you are doing is taking your water and filling up the combustion chamber with a specified CC's of water. The factory size is 54.5cc's so when you get to this point you take some vaseline and put it around the combustion chamber to seal the chamber off, now take your piece of plexiglass and put it over the combustion chamber. From there you can continue putting water in the combustion chamber. When you start to get to the top of the piece of plexiglass, you stop. Subtract what you have left in the syringe from the volume of the syringe and add up how many times you added water into the combustion chamber ie. if you have a 10ml syringe (although mine was .5ml URGH) and you filled it 5 times and you have 4 ml's of water left in the syringe you have a combustion chamber size of 56 cc's.</p><p></p><p>Now that I know this I can go ahead and calculate my compression ratio. While there are calculators out there that will do the math for me, I like to do this sort of stuff so I sat down with a pad and pencil and went about calculating the compression ratio myself. While there are a certain number of ways to calculate your compression ratio, I decided use a technique called slicing pi as it seemed the simplest and easiest way to do this.</p><p></p><p>Bare with me as we are about to embark on a treacherous journey into the world of ...... MATH</p><p></p><p>When calculating your compression ratio there are 5 variables that we are going to need to find and we are going to need to solve for. In looking at the ways to find your compression ratio I saw this video and it stood out to me as the most detailed and concise way to find your compression ratio. Beware though, it is 20 minutes long but it is very thorough in the explanation. I have also found a love for Jafromobile and his videos now because of this.</p><p></p><p> <a href="http://youtu.be/bWze92nt9OU" target="_blank">http://youtu.be/bWze92nt9OU</a></p><p></p><p>Anyway, snap back to reality and math!! Ok, so the variables that we need to solve are as follows:</p><p></p><p>V1 = Swept volume - Here you are calculating the engine volume based on the bore and stroke of the cylinder.</p><p>V2 = Gasket volume</p><p>V3 = Piston to deck volume - Here you are calculating the distance between the piston at top dead center and the deck</p><p>V4 = Piston volume</p><p>V5 = Head combustion chamber volume</p><p></p><p><strong>Getting my measurements</strong></p><p></p><p>I know what my bore is based on the proposed measurements brought forth by RGR & JPC. I don't have a dial bore gauge to calculate my actual bore but when I measured it with my dial caliper at the top (I know this is entirely wrong and un scientific but I didn't have the right tools available to me at the time) it measured out 5 times to an average of 3.699 in, so I am confident in their measurements on stroke as well which I know is 3.800.</p><p></p><p>In order to find the crushed gasket thickness of the gasket I am using I contacted Cometic and asked them for the crushed measurement and they said that it will be .040 as listed on the packaging and all of the crushed thickness' will be listed on the gaskets so my gaskets crushed thickness is .040.</p><p></p><p>In order to measure my PTD clearance I had to find TDC on the number 1 piston. Out came my dial indicator and stand that I got with the Comp Coyote Camshaft Degree Kit. Unfortunately, I didn't have anyway to securely fasten it to the deck so I had to hold it steady by hand. Not an easy task to do when you are trying to rotate the engine at the same time. Anyway, it ended up taking me about an hour to find TDC and then I spent another 45 minutes making sure that it was true TDC which ended up with me double checking my measurements 8 times. So, I set TDC and grabbed my smallest feeler gauge and went all the way around the entire piston and couldn't get it threw so I knew the gap was at least .004" I checked with Eric over at JPC about this and he said that Rich makes sure he zero decked the engine. Considering I couldn't get a .005 feeler gauge in there nor could I see daylight between th piston and my straight edge I am pretty confident that is the case. </p><p></p><p>My pistons are a flat top piston with a .70 valve relief cut in them.</p><p></p><p>Head CC volume using the method outlined above is 57cc's</p><p></p><p><strong>Shall we get started on the math now?</strong></p><p></p><p>Now, according to the Hot Rod magazine article listed below the formula for calculating your compression ratio is as follows</p><p></p><p>Compression Ratio = (V1+V2+V3+V4+V5) / (V2+V3+V4+V5)</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ctrp-0505-calculating-engine-compression/" target="_blank">Calculating Engine Compression - Formulas, Tech - Circle Track</a></p><p></p><p>When figuring out the swept volume (displacement in the Hot Rod article), gasket volume, & the piston to deck volume most people will have you follow a formula that looks like this:</p><p></p><p>(bore/2)^2 x 3.14 (pi) x your variable</p><p></p><p>Instead of doing that, we are going to be slicing Pi which will divide the circle into 4 equal parts so our equations become MUCH simpler IMO. When we slice pi we come with the number that we multiply everything by .7854</p><p></p><p>V1</p><p></p><p>Bore x Bore x Stroke x .7854 = V1</p><p>3.700 x 3.700 x 3.800 x .7854 = 40.8580788</p><p>V1 = 40.8580788</p><p></p><p>V2</p><p></p><p>This one is a little bit tricky. The online calculators seem to use bore of the cylinder rather than the gasket bore size. Using two different measurements will come up with two different compression ratios off by a couple hundredths so I will use the way the online calculators measure gasket volume.</p><p></p><p>Bore x Bore x compressed gasket thickness x .7854 = V2</p><p>3.700 x 3.700 x .040 x .7854 = .43008504</p><p>V2 = .43008504</p><p></p><p>V3</p><p></p><p>Note: Negative value if the piston protrudes above the deck surface, positive if it is below the deck surface</p><p></p><p>Bore x Bore x Pistons Distance relative to the deck surface x .7854 = V3</p><p>3.700 x 3.700 x .000 x. 7854 = 0</p><p>V3 = 0</p><p></p><p>V4</p><p></p><p>Because this measurement is in cubic centimeters and we want it to be in cubic inches like the rest of our measurements, we have to multiply this number by .0610237</p><p></p><p>pistons volume =.70 cc's</p><p>.70 x .0610237 = .04271659</p><p>V4 = .04271659</p><p></p><p>V5</p><p></p><p>Because this measurement is in cubic centimeters and we want it to be in cubic inches like the rest of our measurements, we have to multiply this number by .0610237</p><p></p><p>Combustion chamber volume = 57 cc's</p><p>57 x .0610237 = 3.4783509</p><p>V5 = 3.4783509</p><p></p><p>Now that we have all of our variables, we can go ahead and plug them into our formula above</p><p></p><p>Compression Ratio = (V1+V2+V3+V4+V5) / (V2+V3+V4+V5)</p><p>Compression Ratio = (40.8580788+.43008504+0+.04271659+.4783509) / (.43008504+0+.04271659+.4783509)</p><p>Compression Ratio = 44.80923133 / 3.95115253</p><p>Compression Ratio = 11.3408001816624</p><p>Compression Ratio = 11.34:1</p><p></p><p>From here we can easily find out our displacement. All we have to do is take V1 (our swept volume of a cylinder) and multiply it by how many cylinders the engine has.</p><p></p><p>Displacement = V1 x number of cylinders</p><p>Displacement = 40.8580788 X 8</p><p>Displacement = 326.8646304</p><p>Displacement = 327 CI ......... rounded up, always looking for that extra inch right fellas haha</p><p></p><p>I certainly would have liked to go higher on the compression ratio but stock compression works for me for now. This way I can see what the extra cubic inches and full bolt ons will yield with a Coyote and I'm excited to see what it can do. I know that a Coyote with some big cams can make 577 HP on E85 with 318 CI and a similar setup so I am curious what my entirely different cams and stock compression will do with an extra 9 cubic inches. Plus, down the road when the engine needs to be refreshed I can go a little bit stupid and maybe get that 344ci coyote and run a 12:1 compression ratio and hurt some feelings with it MUWHAHAHAHAHA. I think I will leave this one off here for now.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ford20, post: 14993814, member: 140884"] I just want to say, sorry for all of the typos, I am writing this on my Ipad since my laptop broke last January and I don't have the money to go and get a new one just yet. The next thing I did was turn my attention to the heads. As you may know, the Boss heads were no good. They could have been repaired but I felt it was better to pursue a different path with the heads. The problem with the Boss heads is that there really isn't a lot of machining that can really be done to them compared to the GT heads. There just isn't enough meat on the heads where you can do a good head job. Outside of that the Boss heads are very good for stock heads and flow excellently and are capable of creating some very good power numbers as is. That being said, I talked to Steve over at Tasca and he hooked me up with a set of 2015 GT heads and off they went to RGR for their stage 2 head job. Sometimes it is nice to know what kind of product you are getting ;) [IMG]https://farm1.staticflickr.com/757/20367610534_e780842b90_o.jpg[/img] Well, in the meantime I bought a whole bunch of FRPP parts to hurry along the build. Some of these parts JUST came out and Steve didn't even have pricing on some of them just yet but they are as follows: [img]https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5730/20980436612_534ebbb279_b.jpg[/img] The 2015 heads come bare with just valves, valve springs, and keepers so I also needed to get some roller followers along with the lash adjusters. I had the heads shipped to me and got them all ready to be put in. I have to say they are a work of art IMO. Trick Flow Valve Springs, RGR bronze valve guides Ferrea oversized valves, and a nice port work to the intake and exhaust ports along with some bowl work and a whole slew of things I am probably forgetting. [img]https://farm1.staticflickr.com/705/20477811308_c904998778_b.jpg[/img] [img]https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5656/20937275385_bf5d2892fa_b.jpg[/img] That being said, there have been people noticing that their Cobra jet Intake Manifolds intake runners were much larger in size than the intake ports are on the heads. That will cause a little bit of loss in power than if the ports were matched in size.So I took some painters tape and grabbed my x-acto knife and traced the intake ports on the manifold and transferred that over to some cardboard. Well would you look at that [img]https://farm1.staticflickr.com/475/19810800084_2034950403_b.jpg[/img] [img]https://farm1.staticflickr.com/541/20245365620_925f3d403c_b.jpg[/img] Perfect fit! Don't mind me holding the piece on the head, if I had let it go, it would have fallen down the intake port and I really didn't want that to happen. From this point I wanted to calculate my compression ratio so I needed to know the combustion chamber volume so I grabbed the tools needed (sorry no pictures of this). You need your spark plug as the spark plug takes up a specific volume in the combustion chamber, a piece of plexiglass with a hole cut in the center, some sort of way to measure the liquid going into the Combustion chamber (a syringe works as it has a marked volume on it), some vaseline and some water. The first thing that I did was to level the head so I grabbed a bunch of coffee filters I use to clean parts and folded them up until I got the heads nice and level. What you are doing is taking your water and filling up the combustion chamber with a specified CC's of water. The factory size is 54.5cc's so when you get to this point you take some vaseline and put it around the combustion chamber to seal the chamber off, now take your piece of plexiglass and put it over the combustion chamber. From there you can continue putting water in the combustion chamber. When you start to get to the top of the piece of plexiglass, you stop. Subtract what you have left in the syringe from the volume of the syringe and add up how many times you added water into the combustion chamber ie. if you have a 10ml syringe (although mine was .5ml URGH) and you filled it 5 times and you have 4 ml's of water left in the syringe you have a combustion chamber size of 56 cc's. Now that I know this I can go ahead and calculate my compression ratio. While there are calculators out there that will do the math for me, I like to do this sort of stuff so I sat down with a pad and pencil and went about calculating the compression ratio myself. While there are a certain number of ways to calculate your compression ratio, I decided use a technique called slicing pi as it seemed the simplest and easiest way to do this. Bare with me as we are about to embark on a treacherous journey into the world of ...... MATH When calculating your compression ratio there are 5 variables that we are going to need to find and we are going to need to solve for. In looking at the ways to find your compression ratio I saw this video and it stood out to me as the most detailed and concise way to find your compression ratio. Beware though, it is 20 minutes long but it is very thorough in the explanation. I have also found a love for Jafromobile and his videos now because of this. [url]http://youtu.be/bWze92nt9OU[/url] Anyway, snap back to reality and math!! Ok, so the variables that we need to solve are as follows: V1 = Swept volume - Here you are calculating the engine volume based on the bore and stroke of the cylinder. V2 = Gasket volume V3 = Piston to deck volume - Here you are calculating the distance between the piston at top dead center and the deck V4 = Piston volume V5 = Head combustion chamber volume [b]Getting my measurements[/b] I know what my bore is based on the proposed measurements brought forth by RGR & JPC. I don't have a dial bore gauge to calculate my actual bore but when I measured it with my dial caliper at the top (I know this is entirely wrong and un scientific but I didn't have the right tools available to me at the time) it measured out 5 times to an average of 3.699 in, so I am confident in their measurements on stroke as well which I know is 3.800. In order to find the crushed gasket thickness of the gasket I am using I contacted Cometic and asked them for the crushed measurement and they said that it will be .040 as listed on the packaging and all of the crushed thickness' will be listed on the gaskets so my gaskets crushed thickness is .040. In order to measure my PTD clearance I had to find TDC on the number 1 piston. Out came my dial indicator and stand that I got with the Comp Coyote Camshaft Degree Kit. Unfortunately, I didn't have anyway to securely fasten it to the deck so I had to hold it steady by hand. Not an easy task to do when you are trying to rotate the engine at the same time. Anyway, it ended up taking me about an hour to find TDC and then I spent another 45 minutes making sure that it was true TDC which ended up with me double checking my measurements 8 times. So, I set TDC and grabbed my smallest feeler gauge and went all the way around the entire piston and couldn't get it threw so I knew the gap was at least .004" I checked with Eric over at JPC about this and he said that Rich makes sure he zero decked the engine. Considering I couldn't get a .005 feeler gauge in there nor could I see daylight between th piston and my straight edge I am pretty confident that is the case. My pistons are a flat top piston with a .70 valve relief cut in them. Head CC volume using the method outlined above is 57cc's [b]Shall we get started on the math now?[/b] Now, according to the Hot Rod magazine article listed below the formula for calculating your compression ratio is as follows Compression Ratio = (V1+V2+V3+V4+V5) / (V2+V3+V4+V5) [url=http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ctrp-0505-calculating-engine-compression/]Calculating Engine Compression - Formulas, Tech - Circle Track[/url] When figuring out the swept volume (displacement in the Hot Rod article), gasket volume, & the piston to deck volume most people will have you follow a formula that looks like this: (bore/2)^2 x 3.14 (pi) x your variable Instead of doing that, we are going to be slicing Pi which will divide the circle into 4 equal parts so our equations become MUCH simpler IMO. When we slice pi we come with the number that we multiply everything by .7854 V1 Bore x Bore x Stroke x .7854 = V1 3.700 x 3.700 x 3.800 x .7854 = 40.8580788 V1 = 40.8580788 V2 This one is a little bit tricky. The online calculators seem to use bore of the cylinder rather than the gasket bore size. Using two different measurements will come up with two different compression ratios off by a couple hundredths so I will use the way the online calculators measure gasket volume. Bore x Bore x compressed gasket thickness x .7854 = V2 3.700 x 3.700 x .040 x .7854 = .43008504 V2 = .43008504 V3 Note: Negative value if the piston protrudes above the deck surface, positive if it is below the deck surface Bore x Bore x Pistons Distance relative to the deck surface x .7854 = V3 3.700 x 3.700 x .000 x. 7854 = 0 V3 = 0 V4 Because this measurement is in cubic centimeters and we want it to be in cubic inches like the rest of our measurements, we have to multiply this number by .0610237 pistons volume =.70 cc's .70 x .0610237 = .04271659 V4 = .04271659 V5 Because this measurement is in cubic centimeters and we want it to be in cubic inches like the rest of our measurements, we have to multiply this number by .0610237 Combustion chamber volume = 57 cc's 57 x .0610237 = 3.4783509 V5 = 3.4783509 Now that we have all of our variables, we can go ahead and plug them into our formula above Compression Ratio = (V1+V2+V3+V4+V5) / (V2+V3+V4+V5) Compression Ratio = (40.8580788+.43008504+0+.04271659+.4783509) / (.43008504+0+.04271659+.4783509) Compression Ratio = 44.80923133 / 3.95115253 Compression Ratio = 11.3408001816624 Compression Ratio = 11.34:1 From here we can easily find out our displacement. All we have to do is take V1 (our swept volume of a cylinder) and multiply it by how many cylinders the engine has. Displacement = V1 x number of cylinders Displacement = 40.8580788 X 8 Displacement = 326.8646304 Displacement = 327 CI ......... rounded up, always looking for that extra inch right fellas haha I certainly would have liked to go higher on the compression ratio but stock compression works for me for now. This way I can see what the extra cubic inches and full bolt ons will yield with a Coyote and I'm excited to see what it can do. I know that a Coyote with some big cams can make 577 HP on E85 with 318 CI and a similar setup so I am curious what my entirely different cams and stock compression will do with an extra 9 cubic inches. Plus, down the road when the engine needs to be refreshed I can go a little bit stupid and maybe get that 344ci coyote and run a 12:1 compression ratio and hurt some feelings with it MUWHAHAHAHAHA. I think I will leave this one off here for now. [/QUOTE]
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Out of the ashes, a Phoenix is born (Boss 302 teardown and rebuild)
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