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The Terminator
Engine/Tuning
Pro's of using Mobil 1 5w30 over 0w20?
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<blockquote data-quote="SnakeBit" data-source="post: 1859611" data-attributes="member: 2522"><p>Part of the advantage of a 0W oil is that at cold start (doesn't matter where you live) the oil will flow better to tigher tolerances. Cold start is where the most engine wear occurs (mostly because of no or low oil pressure, but also due to reduced cold temp flow). As the engine oil begins to warm up, it becomes thicker, and at normal operating temps, it is at it's thickest point. Using a 0W oil will get you the best lubrication at cold start because it will get into the tighter spaces in your engine and will pump better than a thicker oil when cold. Even engines in the south will benefit from a 0W oil at startup, but northern engines will benefit even more from a 0W in the winter months. </p><p></p><p>In regards to one of the above comments from evil04cobra (sorry, but I am NOT intending this as a flame, I'm just trying to correct your logic. It's part of the sickness that comes with an engineering degree. If any of my logic presented here is flawed, please feel free to correct me as well. I won't take it as a flame. And I'm NOT an oil engineer, I just have read a lot on the subject but I'm NOT an expert), if the parts warm up and force out the thinner oil, how do you expect thicker oil to get in there? Wouldn't thicker oil be forced out even sooner? Besides, the current thinking on oil is to use the thinnest oil applicable for better lubrication. By using the evil04cobra's logic, 50W oil would lubricate a warm engine better than 30W because as the engine warms up, the 30W is forced out from between expanding metal parts, but the thicker 50W will not be. Since the engines are designed for 5W30 (going by the original specs for the 4.6 4V engine), it would stand to reason that when all engine parts have expanded to normal operating temps, the passages are all large enough to permit 30W oil to get inbetween and lubricate. As I learned in my Fluid Mechanics course, the oil which is in contact with the hot engine parts will be hot as well, hotter than the oil which is farthest away from any hot engine parts. Since the oil is being circulated and agitated, the oil temperature will equalize pretty quickly, especially since the heat will flow from the side which is hotter towards the side which is colder. In that way, the oil will be cooling (or more correctly, removing heat from) the hotter metal parts.</p><p></p><p>Also of note, multi-viscosity oil will flow at different weights depending on it's temp, so if in Arizona, the ambient temp in the oil is at a temp which makes the oil flow as if it was a 20W, then a 0W30 oil will appear to be 20W and flow accordingly. It will only flow as a 0W when the temp dictates that it flow like a 0W. The difference in flow between a 0W30 and a 5W30 would only be different when the oil's temp is lower than the flow temp for it to behave like a 5W oil. Any higher temp would have the 2 oils flowing almost exactly the same (there will be some differences, but then there are differences between different brands of the same weight oils). That being said, the closer the 2 numbers are together, the more consistent (and stable flowing) the oil. so a 5W30 would be more consistent than a 0W50 oil.</p><p></p><p>There is no evidence to suggest that a southern will not benefit from a 0W20 or 0W30 oil. Besides, I'm 40 miles south of Atlanta and there is about 3/4" of frozen rain on the ground right now.</p><p></p><p>BTW, I have used 5W30 Mobile 1 sucessfully in the past, but on this car I'm using 0W30 Amsoil series 2000 because I am convinced that it is a better oil. Whether or not it will protect my engine any better is up for debate. However, I think that a pre-oiler like the Canton Accusump may provide better protection than the difference between 5W30 or 0W30 oil.</p><p></p><p>Here is a link to numerous oil related links:</p><p><a href="http://www.autoenginelube.com/pages/877417/" target="_blank">http://www.autoenginelube.com/pages/877417/</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SnakeBit, post: 1859611, member: 2522"] Part of the advantage of a 0W oil is that at cold start (doesn't matter where you live) the oil will flow better to tigher tolerances. Cold start is where the most engine wear occurs (mostly because of no or low oil pressure, but also due to reduced cold temp flow). As the engine oil begins to warm up, it becomes thicker, and at normal operating temps, it is at it's thickest point. Using a 0W oil will get you the best lubrication at cold start because it will get into the tighter spaces in your engine and will pump better than a thicker oil when cold. Even engines in the south will benefit from a 0W oil at startup, but northern engines will benefit even more from a 0W in the winter months. In regards to one of the above comments from evil04cobra (sorry, but I am NOT intending this as a flame, I'm just trying to correct your logic. It's part of the sickness that comes with an engineering degree. If any of my logic presented here is flawed, please feel free to correct me as well. I won't take it as a flame. And I'm NOT an oil engineer, I just have read a lot on the subject but I'm NOT an expert), if the parts warm up and force out the thinner oil, how do you expect thicker oil to get in there? Wouldn't thicker oil be forced out even sooner? Besides, the current thinking on oil is to use the thinnest oil applicable for better lubrication. By using the evil04cobra's logic, 50W oil would lubricate a warm engine better than 30W because as the engine warms up, the 30W is forced out from between expanding metal parts, but the thicker 50W will not be. Since the engines are designed for 5W30 (going by the original specs for the 4.6 4V engine), it would stand to reason that when all engine parts have expanded to normal operating temps, the passages are all large enough to permit 30W oil to get inbetween and lubricate. As I learned in my Fluid Mechanics course, the oil which is in contact with the hot engine parts will be hot as well, hotter than the oil which is farthest away from any hot engine parts. Since the oil is being circulated and agitated, the oil temperature will equalize pretty quickly, especially since the heat will flow from the side which is hotter towards the side which is colder. In that way, the oil will be cooling (or more correctly, removing heat from) the hotter metal parts. Also of note, multi-viscosity oil will flow at different weights depending on it's temp, so if in Arizona, the ambient temp in the oil is at a temp which makes the oil flow as if it was a 20W, then a 0W30 oil will appear to be 20W and flow accordingly. It will only flow as a 0W when the temp dictates that it flow like a 0W. The difference in flow between a 0W30 and a 5W30 would only be different when the oil's temp is lower than the flow temp for it to behave like a 5W oil. Any higher temp would have the 2 oils flowing almost exactly the same (there will be some differences, but then there are differences between different brands of the same weight oils). That being said, the closer the 2 numbers are together, the more consistent (and stable flowing) the oil. so a 5W30 would be more consistent than a 0W50 oil. There is no evidence to suggest that a southern will not benefit from a 0W20 or 0W30 oil. Besides, I'm 40 miles south of Atlanta and there is about 3/4" of frozen rain on the ground right now. BTW, I have used 5W30 Mobile 1 sucessfully in the past, but on this car I'm using 0W30 Amsoil series 2000 because I am convinced that it is a better oil. Whether or not it will protect my engine any better is up for debate. However, I think that a pre-oiler like the Canton Accusump may provide better protection than the difference between 5W30 or 0W30 oil. Here is a link to numerous oil related links: [url]http://www.autoenginelube.com/pages/877417/[/url] [/QUOTE]
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Pro's of using Mobil 1 5w30 over 0w20?
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