Replacement Clutch Choices

stang99

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I have kept up on the various threads about clutches, but, I don't seem to recall a step by step roadmap to replace the clutch in the Cobra. Also, I have seen several different combination used. Now that a lot of us have been drag racing with sticky tires and mods, there should be a lot more clutch experience. It looks as if my clutch has about had it. It still grips hard, but, the clutch material must be wearing down since it takes constant adjustment and it lacks some grip at the strip or when it is warm. I have 23000 miles on my car, so this is not a warranty item.
Anyone have any clutch secrets to share?
 

Shadowgray03

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Not much clutch experience myself but if your heavy in the mod department and race a lot, especially with DR's then you may want to stick with a stock type clutch. If you go something that grips a lot better you run a bigger risk of blowing a half shaft or twisting your input shaft.
 

StRacer

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I would not use a Centerforce on this app they use centrifigal force to spread the weights and clamp the disk which works great on a centrifigal blown car.... you have 439lb ft of torque so I am almost sure it wouldn't last as well as the stocker did.... I have a back up stock clutch I figured as well as it did I can't complain. I was trying to get a few guys on here to buy a clutch and we would do a buy in with McCleod I can get the twin disk for our cars for 40% off retail with this buy in...but only one guy was interested. If three people wanted clutches we could do it.
 

Snkbyte

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I'am trying out an experimental new twin disk setup from Exedy next week. They are supposed to be pretty bad ass. When I get it installed next week i'll let you guys know how it works out.


Will
 

flyn high again

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In my '92 LX I had both a Ford Motorsport and a Centerforce dual friction. The ford Motorsport really required a lot of force to push the pedal down and wasn't much better than stock. The Centerforce worked great for about 5000 miles and then started wearing out. For those first 5000 miles it grabbed well and I could chirp into third. I don't know how well either would handle the extra torque of an '03.
 

wtw5974

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Originally posted by Snkbyte
I'am trying out an experimental new twin disk setup from Exedy next week. They are supposed to be pretty bad ass. When I get it installed next week i'll let you guys know how it works out.


Will

Any updates on this?
 

BOOOOST

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Originally posted by flyn high again
In my '92 LX I had both a Ford Motorsport and a Centerforce dual friction.

A Ford Motorsport clutch is a Centerforce. However, I'm not sure if it is a I or II, though it's not a Dual Friction.
 

03Sssnake

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I am using Ram kevlar Power Grip clutch with the Ram 9000 series pressure plate..So far, so good.... Peddle effort is very light, it is a bit grabby from a dead stop, no chatter.
 

slythetove

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Originally posted by 03Sssnake
I am using Ram kevlar Power Grip clutch with the Ram 9000 series pressure plate..So far, so good.... Peddle effort is very light, it is a bit grabby from a dead stop, no chatter.

Yeah, but you're on a Viper spec T56 !! :eek:
 

slythetove

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Originally posted by 03cobraminn
why isnt it under warranty 3 year 36000 ?

A clutch is a wear item. Like brakes.

The warranty is more like 12,000 or less on wear items and even then it's questionable under normal circumstances.
 

03Sssnake

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Originally posted by slythetove
Yeah, but you're on a Viper spec T56 !! :eek:

I was going with the same setup/combo for the ford cost reduced version of t-56 as well...That is until I found that TOB sleave was broken. I guess there is always the risk of twisting an input shaft...This setup is not too harsh, but proceed at your own risk.
 

davidmax

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I am using a 1 off racing clutch with so much ressistance after my 1st traffic jam in goes a Spec or something similar.This clutch is 10% street and 90% strip 100% overkill can handle 1500 rrwhp but its free for my written evaluation.
The car will be on Dream Car Garage Feb/04'.One co. that people say sh...t about that will custom make a 1 off for you needs is Clutch Masters.I have 0 experience with the Co.so I bought a spec 3 good for 700 rrwhp Vettes and I have my mustang model for sale I believe without PP just clutch,TOB,Pilot tool etc... I will sell it for 50.00 below wholesale and I pay 40% below cost so it should be in the 275-350.00 range It will be available this week when the car gets back from Sean along with all my Take Off goods.
Dont hold me to the price even though I'm 80% sure its under 300.00 aand has well under 300 break in miles on it.If you want it call me at my shop,480-517-4969 and we can talk there.In the mean time check out Clutch Masters I remember hearing good stuff the Spec rep tore them up and I hate when a competitor bad mouths ,just take the order say thanks and shut up.
WE have a 95% success rate with Spec specially the Spec3 model and we use them on our TT package runs around 650/650.Dave S
 

stang99

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I am leaning toward another stock Ford unit with an adjustible quadrant. I drive in stop and go freeway traffic some of the time and I really need a clutch with smooth engagement and reasonable pedal effort. If I do not put stickies on the car again and do burnouts to heat the tires, my clutch should last a long time. I am still nursing the original clutch along, but, I smell burning clutch when I get out of the car after my morning 53 mile drive. It does not like to make fast standing starts now. Apparently it heats up and gets weird. It still doesn't slip at full throttle in 4th, 5th, 6th, so it has me confused. It still will do a burnout even with stickies. But, it definitely heats up and gets hard to shift if I make even a single 1/4 pull. It doen't act like a glazed or ruined clutch, but it is not right. Another Cobra mystery.
 

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