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The Terminator
Suspension Modifications
Replacement shocks
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<blockquote data-quote="mu22stang" data-source="post: 9762427" data-attributes="member: 81298"><p>I knew my shocks were going out for a few reasons...</p><p></p><p>First, there’s nothing that will make a car feel more like a piece of junk than bad struts and shocks. My car was usually a joy to drive, but the worse and worse the shocks got, the easier it was to tell they were the problem. Their demise was rapid. Perhaps 500 miles from the initial symptoms to completely horrid ride quality.</p><p></p><p>Highway driving, it would bounce like all get out. </p><p></p><p>At low speeds, <15mph, small bumps in the concrete/tarmac would create a rapid tapping metal-on-metal noise. This symptom was intermittent.</p><p></p><p>When turning the steering wheel near lock at low speeds, I could feel/hear a squeak. Because the strut's axis is also a rotational axis, I started to put it together. </p><p></p><p></p><p>Finally, when placing one hand on the strut tower and the other on the upper front subframe cross member and forcefully pushing down, I could induce a very audible clunk on the driver side.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Not a problem. This advice is purely based on spring rate. I <em>think</em> the Bilstein HD's work ok until about 700-800 lb/in (conventional spring) before they become <em><strong>oversprung</strong></em>. If you get a shock designed for a higher spring rate than you have, you are <em><strong>overdamped</strong></em>. Both scenarios will likely end in premature shock/strut death and horrible ride quality.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="mu22stang, post: 9762427, member: 81298"] I knew my shocks were going out for a few reasons... First, there’s nothing that will make a car feel more like a piece of junk than bad struts and shocks. My car was usually a joy to drive, but the worse and worse the shocks got, the easier it was to tell they were the problem. Their demise was rapid. Perhaps 500 miles from the initial symptoms to completely horrid ride quality. Highway driving, it would bounce like all get out. At low speeds, <15mph, small bumps in the concrete/tarmac would create a rapid tapping metal-on-metal noise. This symptom was intermittent. When turning the steering wheel near lock at low speeds, I could feel/hear a squeak. Because the strut's axis is also a rotational axis, I started to put it together. Finally, when placing one hand on the strut tower and the other on the upper front subframe cross member and forcefully pushing down, I could induce a very audible clunk on the driver side. Not a problem. This advice is purely based on spring rate. I [I]think[/I] the Bilstein HD's work ok until about 700-800 lb/in (conventional spring) before they become [I][B]oversprung[/B][/I]. If you get a shock designed for a higher spring rate than you have, you are [I][B]overdamped[/B][/I]. Both scenarios will likely end in premature shock/strut death and horrible ride quality. [/QUOTE]
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