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Rough idle
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<blockquote data-quote="Blown306" data-source="post: 134789" data-attributes="member: 2349"><p>Yes...I change my spark plugs every year as well, cheap parts to help insure a good running engine. Regarding drilling the TB, I know some guys have done it, but I wouldn't unless absolutely necessary. Typically with a head/cam change you'll run rich at idle, and it will hunt and surge. Mine was so bad the engine would die. Try the following procedure to get the IAC adjusted and don't forget to reset the TPS as mentioned above. If you still have bad idle problems, you'll probably need to increase the IDLE_AIRFLOW parameters in the EEC with a tuner or a chip to increase the IAC duty cycle. HTH, good luck...</p><p></p><p><span style="color: blue"></span></p><p><span style="color: blue">Begin with a cold vehicle. The idea here is to get the car to a firm cold idle with enough airbleed capacity left in the idle circuit for IAC adjustment. </span></p><p><span style="color: blue"></span></p><p><span style="color: blue">The idle stop should be set first. Back out the idle stop screw, away from the bell crank arm, until about 1/2 turn past the point where it no longer makes contact (blade fully closed). Using an 0.010" feeler guage, tighten until gauge just drags between screw and bell crank arm. Remove feeler gauge. Tighten screw exactly 1 1/2 turns. If the screw is very loose, put a drop of locktite or silicone on it, so it doesn't work out of adjustment. </span></p><p><span style="color: blue"></span></p><p><span style="color: blue">Now remove the connector to the Idle Air Controller (IAC) just on the other side of the throttle body. Start the car and allow to warm for 2 minutes. Give a small "blip" to let it settle. If it is having a hard time staying running you may have to get an assistant until you can get to the front of the car. Now open or close the air bleed screw (CCW opens) next to the IAC until the car idles at 575 to 600 rpm. For guys with aftermarket cams and an EEC tuner, you might want to idle a bit more briskly, say 650 to 675. </span></p><p><span style="color: blue"></span></p><p><span style="color: blue">Turn off the car. Now count the number of turns clockwise to close on the idle air bleed screw. If it falls between 1/2 and 2, it's okay, now reverse it out the same number of turns. Log the number somewhere in case you need it for the future. Reconnect the IAC. You are done. </span></p><p><span style="color: blue"></span></p><p><span style="color: blue">If the air bleed screw is above 2 turns, it's a good idea to tighten the idle stop screw another 1/2 turn, then repeat the idle setting. If it is below 1/2 turn, then loosen the idle stop screw by 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, and repeat the idle setting. Be sure to put another drop of silicone rtv on the stop screw if it was disturbed. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.</span></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Blown306, post: 134789, member: 2349"] Yes...I change my spark plugs every year as well, cheap parts to help insure a good running engine. Regarding drilling the TB, I know some guys have done it, but I wouldn't unless absolutely necessary. Typically with a head/cam change you'll run rich at idle, and it will hunt and surge. Mine was so bad the engine would die. Try the following procedure to get the IAC adjusted and don't forget to reset the TPS as mentioned above. If you still have bad idle problems, you'll probably need to increase the IDLE_AIRFLOW parameters in the EEC with a tuner or a chip to increase the IAC duty cycle. HTH, good luck... [COLOR=blue] Begin with a cold vehicle. The idea here is to get the car to a firm cold idle with enough airbleed capacity left in the idle circuit for IAC adjustment. The idle stop should be set first. Back out the idle stop screw, away from the bell crank arm, until about 1/2 turn past the point where it no longer makes contact (blade fully closed). Using an 0.010" feeler guage, tighten until gauge just drags between screw and bell crank arm. Remove feeler gauge. Tighten screw exactly 1 1/2 turns. If the screw is very loose, put a drop of locktite or silicone on it, so it doesn't work out of adjustment. Now remove the connector to the Idle Air Controller (IAC) just on the other side of the throttle body. Start the car and allow to warm for 2 minutes. Give a small "blip" to let it settle. If it is having a hard time staying running you may have to get an assistant until you can get to the front of the car. Now open or close the air bleed screw (CCW opens) next to the IAC until the car idles at 575 to 600 rpm. For guys with aftermarket cams and an EEC tuner, you might want to idle a bit more briskly, say 650 to 675. Turn off the car. Now count the number of turns clockwise to close on the idle air bleed screw. If it falls between 1/2 and 2, it's okay, now reverse it out the same number of turns. Log the number somewhere in case you need it for the future. Reconnect the IAC. You are done. If the air bleed screw is above 2 turns, it's a good idea to tighten the idle stop screw another 1/2 turn, then repeat the idle setting. If it is below 1/2 turn, then loosen the idle stop screw by 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, and repeat the idle setting. Be sure to put another drop of silicone rtv on the stop screw if it was disturbed. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.[/COLOR] [/QUOTE]
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