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SVT Shelby GT500
Roush LED Mech Vac/Boost Gauge Install
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<blockquote data-quote="PRP" data-source="post: 13242436" data-attributes="member: 97061"><p>I have the Ford Racing "Electronic" type of Vac/Boost gauge that uses a T-MAP sensor under the hood, then sends a signal to the gauge via wires rather than with a tube so I have been watching this thread with interest. My FRPP instructions tell me to connect to a switched 12v source that stays hot WHILE CRANKING but doesn't give me a specific location to take it from so I have a additional 'feature' to find in my wire harness. I DO like the "under the console" logic, using the Auto Trans plug which SHOULD be there regardless of it being a AT or MT (Mfgr.'s typically use one common "fits all" harness). I'm also looking for a good source to connect my gauge back lights up and frankly I'd be good with it only coming on with the headlights (since it is an analog gauge) but I want my back lighting to dim with the dash lights, not just come on.</p><p></p><p>I'm a (retired) professional Tech that specialized in Electronic Engine & Emission Controls and Electrical systems and *I'm* having a hell of a time trying to figure this mess out so don't feel bad fellas! My primary problem is that I don't have any factory service manuals (or equivalent) to use, and/or factory/dealership specialty tools. I'm afraid to probe the wrong circuit and burn out a module by overloading the CAN/module. Even without a full wiring diagram I know there is some sort of electronic control device in the headlight system because when I remove the center plug on the headlight switch, the headlights turn ON and my door alarm pings notifying me that the headlights are ON. With electronic controls, it's VERY easy to smoke a CAN/Module unless you use a noid type (high impedance) test light. </p><p></p><p>So be very careful guys, you can cause a LOT of issues ($$$) by probing the wrong wire with a high draw circuit.</p><p></p><p>A good friend sells All Data/Mitchel electronic manuals and I think that's *my* next stop, locating a good wiring diagram and going from there. In the meantime, I'm watching this thread and hoping someone figures it out so I can avoid any of my own mistakes. If I find the answer first, I'll post my results here as well.</p><p></p><p></p><p>TIA,</p><p>Phill</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="PRP, post: 13242436, member: 97061"] I have the Ford Racing "Electronic" type of Vac/Boost gauge that uses a T-MAP sensor under the hood, then sends a signal to the gauge via wires rather than with a tube so I have been watching this thread with interest. My FRPP instructions tell me to connect to a switched 12v source that stays hot WHILE CRANKING but doesn't give me a specific location to take it from so I have a additional 'feature' to find in my wire harness. I DO like the "under the console" logic, using the Auto Trans plug which SHOULD be there regardless of it being a AT or MT (Mfgr.'s typically use one common "fits all" harness). I'm also looking for a good source to connect my gauge back lights up and frankly I'd be good with it only coming on with the headlights (since it is an analog gauge) but I want my back lighting to dim with the dash lights, not just come on. I'm a (retired) professional Tech that specialized in Electronic Engine & Emission Controls and Electrical systems and *I'm* having a hell of a time trying to figure this mess out so don't feel bad fellas! My primary problem is that I don't have any factory service manuals (or equivalent) to use, and/or factory/dealership specialty tools. I'm afraid to probe the wrong circuit and burn out a module by overloading the CAN/module. Even without a full wiring diagram I know there is some sort of electronic control device in the headlight system because when I remove the center plug on the headlight switch, the headlights turn ON and my door alarm pings notifying me that the headlights are ON. With electronic controls, it's VERY easy to smoke a CAN/Module unless you use a noid type (high impedance) test light. So be very careful guys, you can cause a LOT of issues ($$$) by probing the wrong wire with a high draw circuit. A good friend sells All Data/Mitchel electronic manuals and I think that's *my* next stop, locating a good wiring diagram and going from there. In the meantime, I'm watching this thread and hoping someone figures it out so I can avoid any of my own mistakes. If I find the answer first, I'll post my results here as well. TIA, Phill [/QUOTE]
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Roush LED Mech Vac/Boost Gauge Install
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