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So, Turbo advice
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<blockquote data-quote="Nightmare302" data-source="post: 15637098" data-attributes="member: 14127"><p>Anyone who says my 76/88 comes in instantly is a bold face liar if they are running a stick. No offense but our 4.6 cars are very very small V8 motors and are not exactly torque beasts. </p><p></p><p>As someone who has owned and built a handful of each type this path is destined for failure. To simply imply that turbo is better in every aspect is naive. </p><p></p><p>First, turbo you HAVE to go tubular suspension, all the "affordable" aka cheap tubular kits rattle clunk and ride like horse crap and all the "affordable" turbo kits use these crap tubular setups. (I.E. on3/upr setup) The only kit I've owned that rode like factory was the hellion kit with the MM k setup. </p><p></p><p>Second, belt problems/shredding belts is a problem. Turbo cars just have different ones. Like blowing out a turbo seal or an intercooler pipe off. Waste gate sticking open and wasting an engine. Each setup has issues to blindly say the s/c belt is an issue and not list any of the possible turbo issues is biased.</p><p></p><p>Third, a 2.3 whipple is an aged technology. A TVS blower will perform much better and it's efficiency range is maximized in the 600-650 range.</p><p></p><p>Fourth, the key to cooling mods is opening up the neck/nipple of the intercooler to increase flow. That and a larger heat exchanger and you are no different than running an aftermarket water to air turbo setup.</p><p></p><p>On a stick car, the TVS car will be more "fun" on the street and will beat the turbo car most of the time simply because of the lag/boost drop off. You can add a "no lift shift" box but you'll just be harsher on your stuff and still lose. </p><p></p><p>The turbo car will be significantly more costly to build. </p><p></p><p>If this is a true "fun" street car the blower will be fair be the most fun option. There are COUNTLESS turbo cars on this forum that get built, people cut corners use a stick try to make a big number and hate them then dump them.</p><p></p><p>You can't use long tubes with a turbo kit, the turbo kit runs the manifolds forward to mount the turbo in the bay. Hellion kits used factory manifolds most others supply their own manifolds. </p><p></p><p>If you don't know that long tubes won't work with a turbo kit (which is fine) I suggest you spend more time doing some research as you clearly are lacking some information.</p><p></p><p>You clearly are deadset on a turbo kit and no amount of logic will deter you. So make sure when you make the decision you know what you are doing, all too often people try to do this on their own and end up hating their car/crushing their budget and selling to recover the cost or to start over.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Nightmare302, post: 15637098, member: 14127"] Anyone who says my 76/88 comes in instantly is a bold face liar if they are running a stick. No offense but our 4.6 cars are very very small V8 motors and are not exactly torque beasts. As someone who has owned and built a handful of each type this path is destined for failure. To simply imply that turbo is better in every aspect is naive. First, turbo you HAVE to go tubular suspension, all the "affordable" aka cheap tubular kits rattle clunk and ride like horse crap and all the "affordable" turbo kits use these crap tubular setups. (I.E. on3/upr setup) The only kit I've owned that rode like factory was the hellion kit with the MM k setup. Second, belt problems/shredding belts is a problem. Turbo cars just have different ones. Like blowing out a turbo seal or an intercooler pipe off. Waste gate sticking open and wasting an engine. Each setup has issues to blindly say the s/c belt is an issue and not list any of the possible turbo issues is biased. Third, a 2.3 whipple is an aged technology. A TVS blower will perform much better and it's efficiency range is maximized in the 600-650 range. Fourth, the key to cooling mods is opening up the neck/nipple of the intercooler to increase flow. That and a larger heat exchanger and you are no different than running an aftermarket water to air turbo setup. On a stick car, the TVS car will be more "fun" on the street and will beat the turbo car most of the time simply because of the lag/boost drop off. You can add a "no lift shift" box but you'll just be harsher on your stuff and still lose. The turbo car will be significantly more costly to build. If this is a true "fun" street car the blower will be fair be the most fun option. There are COUNTLESS turbo cars on this forum that get built, people cut corners use a stick try to make a big number and hate them then dump them. You can't use long tubes with a turbo kit, the turbo kit runs the manifolds forward to mount the turbo in the bay. Hellion kits used factory manifolds most others supply their own manifolds. If you don't know that long tubes won't work with a turbo kit (which is fine) I suggest you spend more time doing some research as you clearly are lacking some information. You clearly are deadset on a turbo kit and no amount of logic will deter you. So make sure when you make the decision you know what you are doing, all too often people try to do this on their own and end up hating their car/crushing their budget and selling to recover the cost or to start over. [/QUOTE]
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