SUPERCHIP TUNE COMPLETE. RESULTS ARE IN.

46stang

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very nice hammer! thanks for all the info!! sweet power! most of the guys that do tuning around here like to keep the A/F ratio around 12 to 1. on the top end you go much leaner than that! just be careful and make sure you don't here any pinging. again congrats and we all say thanks:)
Leon
 

Crusader

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Chip before mods

Excuse me for being a laymen, but I was thinking that it would be better to do the chip after the exhaust and throttle body changes?? Or would you just reburn the chip after the mods, Or... would it not be necessary to alter the chip after exhaust and throttle body modifications? Can someone help me out over here?? Thanks. CRZ8R
 

Yellow Horse

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Hammer, either the 03 computers are different than 01 Cobras or maybe the Superchip plugs into a different port than an Autologic chip sold by JMS.

On my 01, I had to pull the computer off and scrape the resin off the port located on the bottom of the computer. It was a pain in the ass. It took me about 2 hours to get it right. From what you are telling me, there was a coating on the chip pins, correct? Can you describe the process of installing?

Also, I think you ought to try and do any mods you are planning before a dyno tune to take full advantage of the mods. 400 rwhp with virtually no mods is pretty good. That's a little more than my 03 with a full Bassani. An exhaust ought to get you to close to 430 rwhp. I have a set of JBA's coming, I'm curious if Chris could make adjustments at his location for my mods. I could dyno here locally and fax him the dyno sheet with A/F and then they can burn the chip. That is what I may try to do. Good luck.
 

rfat16

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When are you gonna put the pulley and exhaust on. That will take a reburn as well. How long will it take to get the proper burn for that setup?
 

Bob Cosby

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I am pretty sure that you have the different horsepower ratings backward. STD horsepower is the one that is actual horsepower without taking into account any other variables. The one that accounts for temperature, humidity, vapor, altitude, etc. is called SAE horsepower. That measurement is intended to make numbers consistend regardless of weather conditions.

Unfortunately, that is not correct. Uncorrected numbers are the only ones that have nothing accounted for. In other words, on a hot day, you're uncorrected numbers will be less (sometimes very far less) than on a cold day. On a dynojet, it will commonly say 'Actual HP' or 'Actual Torque' instead of 'STD' or 'SAE'.

There are two common correction factors that most folks use. SAE and STD. Here's a quick explanation.

STD stands for 'Standard' correction, and has been around for a long time. Using this correction, your numbers are adjusted to what they would theoretically be if you were at sea level, with a barometer of 29.92 in/hg, Temp of 59F, and no humidity.

SAE is a new 'standard' that has become more common. It corrects your numbers to what they would be with a temp of 77F, baro of 29.23 in/hg, and no humidity. That works out to a density altitude (car guys usually call this a 'corrected altitude') of almost 2000 ft.

The end result is that STD corrected Dyno pass will always be about 4% HIGHER than an SAE dyno.


Going back to the page you linked with the dyno runs, the first dyno pull shows 349 STD RWHP. That means about 335 or so SAE. Pretty low for a stock 03, but dyno's do vary, and even weather instruments can vary. I've seen 8-10 RWHP difference from one dyno to the next, with no changes to my car.

You final numbers show 361 baseline and 403 modded, STD corrected. SAE numbers would be about 347 and 387, respectively.

I would like to stress that I don't get wrapped up in the actual number - I am more interested in the amount of CHANGE in HP. Your numbers show a very nice increase of 40 RWHP. That's the significance - no matter how you slice.

Many thanks for all the info you provided.
 

skunk50

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Wait!

ONLY $350-400 for a dynoed chip?

Just to clarify, this would include dynoing the car multiple times to get a good tune, adjusting FP, wideband O2 sensors, etc... burning the chip and the actually chip itself, install.....for only $350-400?

Damn, the shops in the Wash DC area wants at least $1000.

LaRocca charges $600.
 

Hammer

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Originally posted by skunk50
Wait!

ONLY $350-400 for a dynoed chip?

Just to clarify, this would include dynoing the car multiple times to get a good tune, adjusting FP, wideband O2 sensors, etc... burning the chip and the actually chip itself, install.....for only $350-400?

Damn, the shops in the Wash DC area wants at least $1000.

LaRocca charges $600.

No, the price was for just the chip. But Chris charges $75 for a dyno session and $125 for dyno with 02 sensor.

When you buy a chip, it does actually include a program burned onto it. A blank chip would be of little use to anyone.

BTW: why are you price shopping in NJ if you live in DC? Are you really thinking about coming all this way just for a custom chip? Is the Mustang scene in DC that bad?
 

Zed

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I called Chris and ordered a chip from him yesterday. The chip should be here by friday. :)

Thank you for your help Hammer. :thumbsup:
 

skunk50

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Originally posted by Hammer
BTW: why are you price shopping in NJ if you live in DC? Are you really thinking about coming all this way just for a custom chip? Is the Mustang scene in DC that bad?

The Mustang scene isn't that bad here, but it doesn't look as healthy as it is in NJ. Also the cost is $1000 from a place called Springfield Motorsports. Another place in Mineral, VA called Woodbridge Dynotech (or something) wants about $1200 to start. The tech did not want to commit to a set price for a custom dynoed chip. Crazy. :gt:

If that guy in Jersey charges $350 + 125 = $475 then I wouldn't mind driving up to Jersey :) It's already 50 mins to Springfield, Va for me and about 2 hrs to Mineral, Va. Even for $600 at LaRocca sounds like a deal, especially with their excellent reputation. Long wait though.

What's that guy's site that you had yours done at? Thanks.
 

Jerryk

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Originally posted by Bob Cosby


Unfortunately, that is not correct. Uncorrected numbers are the only ones that have nothing accounted for. In other words, on a hot day, you're uncorrected numbers will be less (sometimes very far less) than on a cold day. On a dynojet, it will commonly say 'Actual HP' or 'Actual Torque' instead of 'STD' or 'SAE'.

There are two common correction factors that most folks use. SAE and STD. Here's a quick explanation.

STD stands for 'Standard' correction, and has been around for a long time. Using this correction, your numbers are adjusted to what they would theoretically be if you were at sea level, with a barometer of 29.92 in/hg, Temp of 59F, and no humidity.

SAE is a new 'standard' that has become more common. It corrects your numbers to what they would be with a temp of 77F, baro of 29.23 in/hg, and no humidity. That works out to a density altitude (car guys usually call this a 'corrected altitude') of almost 2000 ft.

The end result is that STD corrected Dyno pass will always be about 4% HIGHER than an SAE dyno.


Going back to the page you linked with the dyno runs, the first dyno pull shows 349 STD RWHP. That means about 335 or so SAE. Pretty low for a stock 03, but dyno's do vary, and even weather instruments can vary. I've seen 8-10 RWHP difference from one dyno to the next, with no changes to my car.

You final numbers show 361 baseline and 403 modded, STD corrected. SAE numbers would be about 347 and 387, respectively.

I would like to stress that I don't get wrapped up in the actual number - I am more interested in the amount of CHANGE in HP. Your numbers show a very nice increase of 40 RWHP. That's the significance - no matter how you slice.

Many thanks for all the info you provided.

Bob, thanks for the update, this sounds a lot more realistic!

Jerry
 

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