Home
What's new
Latest activity
Authors
Store
Latest reviews
Search products
Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New listings
New products
New profile posts
Latest activity
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
Cart
Cart
Loading…
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Search titles only
By:
Menu
Log in
Register
Navigation
Install the app
Install
More options
Change style
Contact us
Close Menu
Forums
Mustang Forums
2011-2014 Mustangs
Driveline/Suspension
Suspension Tech: Bring It!
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="BMR Tech" data-source="post: 14464323" data-attributes="member: 124691"><p>When comparing a bolt-on SFC to a weld-in, the Weld-In "pros" far outweigh the "pros" of the bolt-in pieces.</p><p></p><p>The only con for a weld-in, is, you have to weld it. A subframe connector works best welded in, as there is no slipping or deflection of the mounting points. Personally, I would rather not use a SFC than to use a Bolt-On SFC.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>I honestly don't give much praise to STB and their improvement on a handling application.</p><p></p><p>I like them because they help keep the front square. You would not believe how minor of an incident, will cause the towers to shift. I've had plenty of customers over the years, try to install our STB - and them not fit. The reason was, minor fender benders or hitting curbs. Pretty telling IMO. I once thought a STB was a waste of time, but after doing what I do for so long...I am a fan of them.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Hard tire racing - you want a little wheel speed. You do not want to blow the tires off, but you DO want some spin. The reason is because, making them dead hook requires lack of RPM / Hit. If you can get them to spin just a little, the car will ET and MPH better.</p><p></p><p>I would either increase the anti squat until you over power the tires slightly....or raise up tire pressure - or both, to induce a little wheel speed.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Consistent 1.65 by "dead hooking" or? Have a video? A 1.65 can be done by hooking hard, or spinning the tires. If you are spinning the tires, then we need to adjust the suspension a little.....if you are dead hooking, I would raise the launch RPM up until you don't hook first, then come down a little......OR I would try and induce some wheel speed by either tire pressure adjustments, or suspension tweaks. </p><p></p><p>What is it doing on the hit?</p><p></p><p>What is it doing on the hit?</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>For a handling application, I really don't like a Poly Non-Adjustable FLCA. I have had a few guys bust those poly (front) bushings up...and it just does no good.</p><p></p><p>I ALWAYS recommend an adjustable LCA for handling, simply because they perform better and they are more durable for road course abuse.</p><p></p><p>As for the geometry, our A-Arms are not designed to be used with anti-dive (increased) - I personally never recommend raising that back mount with our arms, simply because of the increase twisting force placed on the assembly. I have guys doing it, but I am leary of that. I usually recommend getting the components in bare, and spray painting them silver, to easily spot any damage if it presents it's ugly head.</p><p></p><p>I like the tall ball joint, for roll center improvement. That said, they can cause issues. The wheel moves slightly inboard, which can cause clearance issues with large brake kits (rotors)....and they can also cause some headache with alignment (tires will be toes out upon initial install)</p><p></p><p>As for the Poly VS Bearing - the NVH will definitely be a little more noticeable with the bearing. If you are worried at all, about NVH, then an aftermarket FLCA / or the aftermarket bushing&joint kits may not be your best route.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BMR Tech, post: 14464323, member: 124691"] When comparing a bolt-on SFC to a weld-in, the Weld-In "pros" far outweigh the "pros" of the bolt-in pieces. The only con for a weld-in, is, you have to weld it. A subframe connector works best welded in, as there is no slipping or deflection of the mounting points. Personally, I would rather not use a SFC than to use a Bolt-On SFC. I honestly don't give much praise to STB and their improvement on a handling application. I like them because they help keep the front square. You would not believe how minor of an incident, will cause the towers to shift. I've had plenty of customers over the years, try to install our STB - and them not fit. The reason was, minor fender benders or hitting curbs. Pretty telling IMO. I once thought a STB was a waste of time, but after doing what I do for so long...I am a fan of them. Hard tire racing - you want a little wheel speed. You do not want to blow the tires off, but you DO want some spin. The reason is because, making them dead hook requires lack of RPM / Hit. If you can get them to spin just a little, the car will ET and MPH better. I would either increase the anti squat until you over power the tires slightly....or raise up tire pressure - or both, to induce a little wheel speed. Consistent 1.65 by "dead hooking" or? Have a video? A 1.65 can be done by hooking hard, or spinning the tires. If you are spinning the tires, then we need to adjust the suspension a little.....if you are dead hooking, I would raise the launch RPM up until you don't hook first, then come down a little......OR I would try and induce some wheel speed by either tire pressure adjustments, or suspension tweaks. What is it doing on the hit? What is it doing on the hit? For a handling application, I really don't like a Poly Non-Adjustable FLCA. I have had a few guys bust those poly (front) bushings up...and it just does no good. I ALWAYS recommend an adjustable LCA for handling, simply because they perform better and they are more durable for road course abuse. As for the geometry, our A-Arms are not designed to be used with anti-dive (increased) - I personally never recommend raising that back mount with our arms, simply because of the increase twisting force placed on the assembly. I have guys doing it, but I am leary of that. I usually recommend getting the components in bare, and spray painting them silver, to easily spot any damage if it presents it's ugly head. I like the tall ball joint, for roll center improvement. That said, they can cause issues. The wheel moves slightly inboard, which can cause clearance issues with large brake kits (rotors)....and they can also cause some headache with alignment (tires will be toes out upon initial install) As for the Poly VS Bearing - the NVH will definitely be a little more noticeable with the bearing. If you are worried at all, about NVH, then an aftermarket FLCA / or the aftermarket bushing&joint kits may not be your best route. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Mustang Forums
2011-2014 Mustangs
Driveline/Suspension
Suspension Tech: Bring It!
Top