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SVT Shelby GT500
Suspension - thoughts / advice
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<blockquote data-quote="jdt1970" data-source="post: 15638042" data-attributes="member: 185386"><p>A watts link will not replace the UCA but a TA will. </p><p></p><p>From my understanding wheel hop has to do with soft bushings more than geometry but since a TA replaces two rubber bushings by replacing the UCA then it would help wheel hop indirectly. </p><p></p><p>The main function of a TA is to control axle torque (just like a UCA). It does it better than the UCA because it fixes the instant center in one location rather than letting it migrate as it does with the UCA. The TA has a positive effect on anti dive (should have better control during heavy breaking) and allows you to run more anti-squat (better traction on hard launch). </p><p></p><p>The TA is more for a street/track car. It isn't as appropriate for a drag car that only needs to go straight. It is also nice on the street because you have less dive and squat without having to use stiff springs. </p><p></p><p>The watts link simply locates the axle left and right under the car. It does it slightly better than a panhard bar because it is more symmetrical. The panhard affects the car differently in a left turn than it does in a right turn. A watts makes the car more predictable when cornering hard. </p><p></p><p>My UCA seems to be doing fine with the increased power and torque. It is just a pain in the ass to adjust without a lift. Everytime I make a suspension change (alignment, relocation bracket, lca adjustment, etc) I have to adjust the pinion angle back to where I want it. The jam nuts on the UCA can only be accessed when the suspension is unloaded. The adjustment must be made with the suspension loaded. So this means I have to raise the car onto jack stands and loosen the jam nuts. Then lower it onto blocks so I can get under there to make the adjustment. Then raise it back up to tighten the jam nuts. Then back on blocks to recheck. Then back off blocks so I can remove blocks and lower car. Then drive it around. Then raise it back up on blocks to check and maybe readjust. If you have a lift this is much easier but if you are using scissor jacks and stacks of 2x10s it can easily take a whole day to adjust the UCA. </p><p></p><p>So long story short do lots of research before you decide. Try to be honest about what you are going to be using the car for. If you just want to go fast between stop lights you can do that easily with some good control arms. If you want to handle corners better then maybe a TA/Watts link would be right for you. </p><p></p><p>Be careful with lowering and think it through. Don't forget if you lower the car not only will you need lca relocation brackets and a adjustable panhard or watts but you will also need to adjust the front suspension (I will let someone else advise you on front suspension). </p><p></p><p>Take Care,</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jdt1970, post: 15638042, member: 185386"] A watts link will not replace the UCA but a TA will. From my understanding wheel hop has to do with soft bushings more than geometry but since a TA replaces two rubber bushings by replacing the UCA then it would help wheel hop indirectly. The main function of a TA is to control axle torque (just like a UCA). It does it better than the UCA because it fixes the instant center in one location rather than letting it migrate as it does with the UCA. The TA has a positive effect on anti dive (should have better control during heavy breaking) and allows you to run more anti-squat (better traction on hard launch). The TA is more for a street/track car. It isn't as appropriate for a drag car that only needs to go straight. It is also nice on the street because you have less dive and squat without having to use stiff springs. The watts link simply locates the axle left and right under the car. It does it slightly better than a panhard bar because it is more symmetrical. The panhard affects the car differently in a left turn than it does in a right turn. A watts makes the car more predictable when cornering hard. My UCA seems to be doing fine with the increased power and torque. It is just a pain in the ass to adjust without a lift. Everytime I make a suspension change (alignment, relocation bracket, lca adjustment, etc) I have to adjust the pinion angle back to where I want it. The jam nuts on the UCA can only be accessed when the suspension is unloaded. The adjustment must be made with the suspension loaded. So this means I have to raise the car onto jack stands and loosen the jam nuts. Then lower it onto blocks so I can get under there to make the adjustment. Then raise it back up to tighten the jam nuts. Then back on blocks to recheck. Then back off blocks so I can remove blocks and lower car. Then drive it around. Then raise it back up on blocks to check and maybe readjust. If you have a lift this is much easier but if you are using scissor jacks and stacks of 2x10s it can easily take a whole day to adjust the UCA. So long story short do lots of research before you decide. Try to be honest about what you are going to be using the car for. If you just want to go fast between stop lights you can do that easily with some good control arms. If you want to handle corners better then maybe a TA/Watts link would be right for you. Be careful with lowering and think it through. Don't forget if you lower the car not only will you need lca relocation brackets and a adjustable panhard or watts but you will also need to adjust the front suspension (I will let someone else advise you on front suspension). Take Care, [/QUOTE]
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