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The Terminator
Suspension Modifications
Suspension Upgrade for Auto Cross
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<blockquote data-quote="tt335ci03cobra" data-source="post: 16036352" data-attributes="member: 68944"><p>Full suspension here, I run away from sti’s in canyon runs. I’ve run away from average drivers in z06’s and Porsche’s as well. Embarrassed a guy in a lotus evora, on and on. Driver mod as in good footwork skills to get rotation from using al 3 pedals well on corner entry, and a Parnelli Jones esc competently settable car will do excellent. There are YouTube videos of a worked up 2000 cobra R lapping with and passing a Porsche Carerra GT. Not a 911, the 2005 mid engine $400k supercar porsche.</p><p></p><p>Anyways, here’s some feedback</p><p></p><p>1, 2 and 3 are all honestly one big step/commitment.</p><p></p><p>1. Driver mod. Seat time, practice practice practice on what you have now.</p><p></p><p>2. Take driving lessons from an instructor while doing this.</p><p></p><p>3. Have competent tires, pads, brake fluid, and rotors. (not insane stuff, just nothing with worn edges or cupping, nothing overly used etc. Nice healthy fresh wear items). When you get a good feel for driving it stock, get a moderately agrressive alignment. Something around -1.75° up front and -.75 to -1° rear as well as zero’d toe and up to 5.25° of caster, but usually 4.5 to 4.75°. Excessive Caster will make it feel like it has a little rear steer.</p><p></p><p>Now for mods:</p><p></p><p>Get light weight rims very first. Unsprung weight reduction is the best thing you can do. Tsw makes a bunch of rotary forged wheels. My 18x9/10’s are 22 and 24lbs. My factory 17x9’s were 30lbs each. Each lbs of unsprung weight is similar to dropping 10lbs of sprung weight. Sprung weight could be the actual floor plan of the car for example, the wheel and brake are out board of the suspension so they unsprung.</p><p></p><p>A. Start with stifflers subframe connectors.</p><p></p><p>B. Save and do the entire full tilt boogie racing 5001a kit with tie rods and full bushings. The MM stuff is good, but the ftbr kit has been shown to be better</p><p></p><p>C. From there save for an MM kmember, steering shaft, camber plates and full coil overs. I run the stock geometry mm kmember and 425/550# springs (if I recall correct) with Koni single adjustables. I have an aluminum engine block and the kmember so I went with softer front springs than others have chosen.</p><p></p><p>D. Get an auburn differential if you won’t be going north of 500whp. If you will, you’ll have to make do with a Detroit trutrac. Also can upgrade axles at this stage to DSS units, etc. 3.73 is a great autocross gear as well.</p><p></p><p>E. Better brakes. Brakeman kit is best for autocross because it’s very light, and much more brake than you’ll ever need for 60mph maximum speeds. Ditching unsprung weight is crucial.</p><p></p><p>F. Could try an agent 47 sla front suspension or a Griggs sla. Very expensive, and not as streetable. There is a definite reason why these units are the top performing systems in aix. Mcphaerson can’t compete with the flexibility and optimization of an sla</p><p></p><p>Racebronco is a member on this site who can give you much better info as he has raced his cobra a lot for a decade or so.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="tt335ci03cobra, post: 16036352, member: 68944"] Full suspension here, I run away from sti’s in canyon runs. I’ve run away from average drivers in z06’s and Porsche’s as well. Embarrassed a guy in a lotus evora, on and on. Driver mod as in good footwork skills to get rotation from using al 3 pedals well on corner entry, and a Parnelli Jones esc competently settable car will do excellent. There are YouTube videos of a worked up 2000 cobra R lapping with and passing a Porsche Carerra GT. Not a 911, the 2005 mid engine $400k supercar porsche. Anyways, here’s some feedback 1, 2 and 3 are all honestly one big step/commitment. 1. Driver mod. Seat time, practice practice practice on what you have now. 2. Take driving lessons from an instructor while doing this. 3. Have competent tires, pads, brake fluid, and rotors. (not insane stuff, just nothing with worn edges or cupping, nothing overly used etc. Nice healthy fresh wear items). When you get a good feel for driving it stock, get a moderately agrressive alignment. Something around -1.75° up front and -.75 to -1° rear as well as zero’d toe and up to 5.25° of caster, but usually 4.5 to 4.75°. Excessive Caster will make it feel like it has a little rear steer. Now for mods: Get light weight rims very first. Unsprung weight reduction is the best thing you can do. Tsw makes a bunch of rotary forged wheels. My 18x9/10’s are 22 and 24lbs. My factory 17x9’s were 30lbs each. Each lbs of unsprung weight is similar to dropping 10lbs of sprung weight. Sprung weight could be the actual floor plan of the car for example, the wheel and brake are out board of the suspension so they unsprung. A. Start with stifflers subframe connectors. B. Save and do the entire full tilt boogie racing 5001a kit with tie rods and full bushings. The MM stuff is good, but the ftbr kit has been shown to be better C. From there save for an MM kmember, steering shaft, camber plates and full coil overs. I run the stock geometry mm kmember and 425/550# springs (if I recall correct) with Koni single adjustables. I have an aluminum engine block and the kmember so I went with softer front springs than others have chosen. D. Get an auburn differential if you won’t be going north of 500whp. If you will, you’ll have to make do with a Detroit trutrac. Also can upgrade axles at this stage to DSS units, etc. 3.73 is a great autocross gear as well. E. Better brakes. Brakeman kit is best for autocross because it’s very light, and much more brake than you’ll ever need for 60mph maximum speeds. Ditching unsprung weight is crucial. F. Could try an agent 47 sla front suspension or a Griggs sla. Very expensive, and not as streetable. There is a definite reason why these units are the top performing systems in aix. Mcphaerson can’t compete with the flexibility and optimization of an sla Racebronco is a member on this site who can give you much better info as he has raced his cobra a lot for a decade or so. [/QUOTE]
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