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SVTPerformance's Chain of Restaurants
Show'n'Shine Saloon
Swirl Marks
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<blockquote data-quote="TransAxle" data-source="post: 11574698" data-attributes="member: 62587"><p>As always when I make a long post, I see the need too. Be it from bad information or just a good general answer to information. This post will be correcting some very bad information in this thread so far, while answering the OP's original question.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p><strong>*Very bad Information Above*</strong></p><p></p><p>Five, you really have no idea what you are talking about, which shows from some of your replies in this thread. I can also tell your a dealership detailer, by saying referring to a buffing system and mentioning the 3M 3000 line. </p><p></p><p>Swirls CANNOT be removed by hand. It requires way more energy and heat then your hand/arm can produce. As someone already stated, if your applying a wax an the scratches/swirls go away, all you are doing is filling them in. Within a few washes, they will be right back. It takes at minimum a DA buffer to remove scratches. </p><p></p><p>Klasse anything does not prevent swirls in the future. It is not some Opti-Coat hopped up on crack or the be all end all miracle product. It is a simple polish and a very light one, which does have a very slight filling effect.</p><p></p><p>Now calling out anyone to bring their vehicle to you too prove them wrong, I really hope they do not. Your work is the type of work that keeps the people like me, who know what they are doing, in business. </p><p></p><p>Now to the rest of the responses that actually seem logical and work answering are below. </p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>The Flex is not a bad polisher. Its not my favorite as I have one and just rarely find the need to ever use it. I am not a fan or at least never can get use to the counter-clockwise rotation it has. Its also not a great polisher to start with. </p><p></p><p>For starter polishers you want too look into, as mentioned, the Porter Cable or Griots Garage polisher. These are great polishers to start with and work well for any weekend warrior needs. Though my vote goes to the Griots, as its my favorite of the two.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Again, good choice, but I would warn against the Flex for starter use. </p><p></p><p>Most of Seers information is pretty straight forward. Always try to remove everything with the least aggressive combo. If your least aggressive combo does not work, step up too a more aggressive pad before going to a more aggressive polish. </p><p></p><p>As the pads he mentioned, the Lake Country Orange, White and Grey are pretty standard for starting out. For a weekend warrior, with a good compound/polish and Orange pad, you can remove a decent % of defects. </p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Adams is far from the best on the market. Now in terms of good weekend warrior based stuff, then yes, they are at the top of their game. Which is what their stuff is meant for. Its not professional grade by any standard, but great for people who want to take a hand at polishing their own vehicles in person.</p><p></p><p>Mentioning Junkman, I have been at two of his detailing seminars here in GA, that were held at a buddies business and even his results are below professional. He is dam good at what he does and markets it correctly for Adams. I have seen it impress many people, but for me, it was still needing additional steps.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>The love of having black vehicles. </p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Pretty much all correct. Its next to impossible to keep a daily driver vehicle scratch free. There are ways to be safe on washes to extend the time when you have to repolish the vehicle. </p><p></p><p>Also, judging by what Five said earlier, I think what he is referring too is holograms or buffer trails. Which is just inexperience with a rotary buffer. </p><p></p><p>Also, I really hope you do not let him anywhere near a vehicle if he actually comes to show you wrong on the mustang.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="TransAxle, post: 11574698, member: 62587"] As always when I make a long post, I see the need too. Be it from bad information or just a good general answer to information. This post will be correcting some very bad information in this thread so far, while answering the OP's original question. [B]*Very bad Information Above*[/B] Five, you really have no idea what you are talking about, which shows from some of your replies in this thread. I can also tell your a dealership detailer, by saying referring to a buffing system and mentioning the 3M 3000 line. Swirls CANNOT be removed by hand. It requires way more energy and heat then your hand/arm can produce. As someone already stated, if your applying a wax an the scratches/swirls go away, all you are doing is filling them in. Within a few washes, they will be right back. It takes at minimum a DA buffer to remove scratches. Klasse anything does not prevent swirls in the future. It is not some Opti-Coat hopped up on crack or the be all end all miracle product. It is a simple polish and a very light one, which does have a very slight filling effect. Now calling out anyone to bring their vehicle to you too prove them wrong, I really hope they do not. Your work is the type of work that keeps the people like me, who know what they are doing, in business. Now to the rest of the responses that actually seem logical and work answering are below. The Flex is not a bad polisher. Its not my favorite as I have one and just rarely find the need to ever use it. I am not a fan or at least never can get use to the counter-clockwise rotation it has. Its also not a great polisher to start with. For starter polishers you want too look into, as mentioned, the Porter Cable or Griots Garage polisher. These are great polishers to start with and work well for any weekend warrior needs. Though my vote goes to the Griots, as its my favorite of the two. Again, good choice, but I would warn against the Flex for starter use. Most of Seers information is pretty straight forward. Always try to remove everything with the least aggressive combo. If your least aggressive combo does not work, step up too a more aggressive pad before going to a more aggressive polish. As the pads he mentioned, the Lake Country Orange, White and Grey are pretty standard for starting out. For a weekend warrior, with a good compound/polish and Orange pad, you can remove a decent % of defects. Adams is far from the best on the market. Now in terms of good weekend warrior based stuff, then yes, they are at the top of their game. Which is what their stuff is meant for. Its not professional grade by any standard, but great for people who want to take a hand at polishing their own vehicles in person. Mentioning Junkman, I have been at two of his detailing seminars here in GA, that were held at a buddies business and even his results are below professional. He is dam good at what he does and markets it correctly for Adams. I have seen it impress many people, but for me, it was still needing additional steps. The love of having black vehicles. Pretty much all correct. Its next to impossible to keep a daily driver vehicle scratch free. There are ways to be safe on washes to extend the time when you have to repolish the vehicle. Also, judging by what Five said earlier, I think what he is referring too is holograms or buffer trails. Which is just inexperience with a rotary buffer. Also, I really hope you do not let him anywhere near a vehicle if he actually comes to show you wrong on the mustang. [/QUOTE]
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