Gents,
I know this is an old thread, but I like to help out, so here is my blown FRPS story...
I drove my Stang to pick up my buddy for dinner, then when we left the restaurant and I was headed to drop him off the car started running rough...like it was running on 7 cylinders...then it smoothed out...then it got rough again, then it finally died and would not re-start. It smelled like gas when trying to get it to start again. I was stuck on an expressway exit-ramp.
Car still has a stock engine with a Roush TVS R2300 supercharger. Fuel pumps are GT500 dual pumps.
I had it towed home on a flat-bed and it is sat in my driveway overnight, then I trouble-shot it the next day. I checked fused power feeds on the GT500 pump power supply. I suspected one of about 3 or 4 things:
1) Bad fuel pump in the GT500 dual pump hat
2) Bad Fuel Rail Pressure sensor (FRPS)
3) Bad gas / dirty or clogged fuel filter
One thing that I *thought* I recalled is that target fuel rail pressure is 39 PSI on these cars. Kenne Bell has a cool explanation on their website about how a Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump works, and they explain that, for example, if you are making 10 pounds of boost, the pump output pressure needs to be 49 PSI so that when the two offset, the rail internal pressure remains at 39 PSI...I may have butchered precisely how that works, but in short, no matter what is happening, you should see 39 or so. As I sat stranded on the side of the road, I saw around 70...so I thought that might be a clue.
Here are the codes I pulled with my SCT handheld the next morning after the previus night's tow home:
PO148 Fuel delivery error
PO191 Fuel rail pressure sensor A circuit range performance
P2196 O2 sensor signal biased stuck rich bank 1, sensor 1
P2198 O2 sensor signal biased stuck rich bank 2 sensor 1
Obligatory flat-bed tow-truck photo...oh yeah, my tow-hook came in handy:
Reference thread below.
https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/symptoms-of-blown-frps.434905/
Only 10 years old. Next time start a new one and reference the old one.
Staff
After checking the fuses, I went to my basement parts horde, and there was my old stock GT fuel rail (taken off when I added the TVS supercharger kit, which came with a new fuel rail and FRPS), so I thought I would install it just to eliminate one of the items on my list of suspects.
Here was the Aeroforce Interceptor pressure before the FRPS swap:
Here is the old rail with FRPS, safely sealed in a kitchen trash bag and plastic tub for the last 9 years (Man I'm getting old):
I undid those two bolts and carefully extracted it to avoid tearing the O-Ring. It slid out with ease. I applied a touch of engine assembly lube to the O-Ring and headed to the car...
It sits just behind the alternator on the driver's side fuel rail:
Close-Up:
It is so close to the alternator that you can't really unplug it without removing it. I de-pressurized the fuel system by pulling the fuel pump relay fuses and cranking the car until I saw no fuel rail pressure on the Aeroforce...then I unplugged the boost-vacuum line, undid the two bolts, pulled off the electrical connector, installed the new one in reverse order, re-installed the fuel pump relay/fuses, and gave the car a start attempt. It fired right up! That was about the easiest fix ever. It was a bummer breaking down, but I thought I would share so you guys know what to look for in the event you should have your FRPS fail.
After:
Read about the 39 PSI and why here:
http://kennebell.net/tech/fuel-tech/boost-a-pump-theory-of-operation-explained/
Does anyone have a picture of this insert disc you guys speak of, and have those that installed one had better reliability out of the FRPS?
Thanks!
Shane
I know this is an old thread, but I like to help out, so here is my blown FRPS story...
I drove my Stang to pick up my buddy for dinner, then when we left the restaurant and I was headed to drop him off the car started running rough...like it was running on 7 cylinders...then it smoothed out...then it got rough again, then it finally died and would not re-start. It smelled like gas when trying to get it to start again. I was stuck on an expressway exit-ramp.
Car still has a stock engine with a Roush TVS R2300 supercharger. Fuel pumps are GT500 dual pumps.
I had it towed home on a flat-bed and it is sat in my driveway overnight, then I trouble-shot it the next day. I checked fused power feeds on the GT500 pump power supply. I suspected one of about 3 or 4 things:
1) Bad fuel pump in the GT500 dual pump hat
2) Bad Fuel Rail Pressure sensor (FRPS)
3) Bad gas / dirty or clogged fuel filter
One thing that I *thought* I recalled is that target fuel rail pressure is 39 PSI on these cars. Kenne Bell has a cool explanation on their website about how a Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump works, and they explain that, for example, if you are making 10 pounds of boost, the pump output pressure needs to be 49 PSI so that when the two offset, the rail internal pressure remains at 39 PSI...I may have butchered precisely how that works, but in short, no matter what is happening, you should see 39 or so. As I sat stranded on the side of the road, I saw around 70...so I thought that might be a clue.
Here are the codes I pulled with my SCT handheld the next morning after the previus night's tow home:
PO148 Fuel delivery error
PO191 Fuel rail pressure sensor A circuit range performance
P2196 O2 sensor signal biased stuck rich bank 1, sensor 1
P2198 O2 sensor signal biased stuck rich bank 2 sensor 1
Obligatory flat-bed tow-truck photo...oh yeah, my tow-hook came in handy:
Reference thread below.
https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/symptoms-of-blown-frps.434905/
Only 10 years old. Next time start a new one and reference the old one.
Staff
After checking the fuses, I went to my basement parts horde, and there was my old stock GT fuel rail (taken off when I added the TVS supercharger kit, which came with a new fuel rail and FRPS), so I thought I would install it just to eliminate one of the items on my list of suspects.
Here was the Aeroforce Interceptor pressure before the FRPS swap:
Here is the old rail with FRPS, safely sealed in a kitchen trash bag and plastic tub for the last 9 years (Man I'm getting old):
I undid those two bolts and carefully extracted it to avoid tearing the O-Ring. It slid out with ease. I applied a touch of engine assembly lube to the O-Ring and headed to the car...
It sits just behind the alternator on the driver's side fuel rail:
Close-Up:
It is so close to the alternator that you can't really unplug it without removing it. I de-pressurized the fuel system by pulling the fuel pump relay fuses and cranking the car until I saw no fuel rail pressure on the Aeroforce...then I unplugged the boost-vacuum line, undid the two bolts, pulled off the electrical connector, installed the new one in reverse order, re-installed the fuel pump relay/fuses, and gave the car a start attempt. It fired right up! That was about the easiest fix ever. It was a bummer breaking down, but I thought I would share so you guys know what to look for in the event you should have your FRPS fail.
After:
Read about the 39 PSI and why here:
http://kennebell.net/tech/fuel-tech/boost-a-pump-theory-of-operation-explained/
Does anyone have a picture of this insert disc you guys speak of, and have those that installed one had better reliability out of the FRPS?
Thanks!
Shane
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