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<blockquote data-quote="Blkkbgt" data-source="post: 16759550" data-attributes="member: 117234"><p>If you have FB go look at MMs page for starters. Look for something called "Not MM". You'll see several pictures of failed A arms and SRA lowers.</p><p></p><p>In short yes a drag racing oriented A arm has a higher probability of failure than stock or one made for open tracking.</p><p></p><p>Now will it fail on the street? No because tons of people run them and if they were failing all the time people would bitch. But on a track under heavy breaking loads with sticky tires the likelihood goes up and again there have been failures. Even Griggs has had issue.</p><p></p><p>MM has however stated repeatedly over the years that the worst event an A arm will see is hitting a pot hole while breaking. They designed their arms to handle this situation without a problem.</p><p></p><p>Take a look at the differences in designs between your A arms and MM or even BMR. You'll notice more gussets and thicker tubes. BMR botched their K member roll out but I'd trust their A arms on the street before a drag race arm.</p><p></p><p>Now I am going to assume you bought A arms without sway bar mounts. If I am correct they need to go if you want the car to handle well. Sorry but it WONT happen without a sway bar, period.</p><p></p><p>Next your shocks and strut setup along with your springs need to change as well. Neither of those current parts will help your car handle well.</p><p></p><p>No matter what you are looking at spending some money if you truly want the car to handle well.</p><p></p><p>Honestly I do not know why anyone would buy a setup like that unless they were building a drag car. I think you need to do some reading on MMs site before moving forward.</p><p></p><p>Please for the love of God run the **** away from ANYONE who tells you that your setup should handle great. When I was researching K members and A arms ages ago I ran into and talked to dozens of idiots that told me their setup that was just like yours and handled great or amazing. One dumb ass I talked to had no sway bar and pizza cutters up front but insisted his shit handled like a vette or porsche, all I could do was laugh and walk away. You can still find old posts like this on forums and they are laughable.</p><p></p><p>Also steer clear of any manufacturer that tells you something similar. Sway bars don't exist on damn near everything for no reason at all. You want to talk about people blowing smoke to make a sale? The drag race oriented companies can be just as bad as anyone else.</p><p></p><p>The cheapest option in all of this is to actually put your old K member back on with H&R red race springs, stock A arms and global west Delrin bushings. Your old stock struts may or may not need to be replaced.</p><p></p><p>The upgraded stock setup WILL handle better than what you have up front now. Now if you just swap the a arms and add different struts and springs it becomes slightly debatable but I'll say that your Team Z K member lacks bracing and probably has no geometry changes to improve handling.</p><p></p><p>I hope this helps but you need to do some reading and choose parts wisely if you want the car to do what you say you want it to do.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Blkkbgt, post: 16759550, member: 117234"] If you have FB go look at MMs page for starters. Look for something called "Not MM". You'll see several pictures of failed A arms and SRA lowers. In short yes a drag racing oriented A arm has a higher probability of failure than stock or one made for open tracking. Now will it fail on the street? No because tons of people run them and if they were failing all the time people would bitch. But on a track under heavy breaking loads with sticky tires the likelihood goes up and again there have been failures. Even Griggs has had issue. MM has however stated repeatedly over the years that the worst event an A arm will see is hitting a pot hole while breaking. They designed their arms to handle this situation without a problem. Take a look at the differences in designs between your A arms and MM or even BMR. You'll notice more gussets and thicker tubes. BMR botched their K member roll out but I'd trust their A arms on the street before a drag race arm. Now I am going to assume you bought A arms without sway bar mounts. If I am correct they need to go if you want the car to handle well. Sorry but it WONT happen without a sway bar, period. Next your shocks and strut setup along with your springs need to change as well. Neither of those current parts will help your car handle well. No matter what you are looking at spending some money if you truly want the car to handle well. Honestly I do not know why anyone would buy a setup like that unless they were building a drag car. I think you need to do some reading on MMs site before moving forward. Please for the love of God run the **** away from ANYONE who tells you that your setup should handle great. When I was researching K members and A arms ages ago I ran into and talked to dozens of idiots that told me their setup that was just like yours and handled great or amazing. One dumb ass I talked to had no sway bar and pizza cutters up front but insisted his shit handled like a vette or porsche, all I could do was laugh and walk away. You can still find old posts like this on forums and they are laughable. Also steer clear of any manufacturer that tells you something similar. Sway bars don't exist on damn near everything for no reason at all. You want to talk about people blowing smoke to make a sale? The drag race oriented companies can be just as bad as anyone else. The cheapest option in all of this is to actually put your old K member back on with H&R red race springs, stock A arms and global west Delrin bushings. Your old stock struts may or may not need to be replaced. The upgraded stock setup WILL handle better than what you have up front now. Now if you just swap the a arms and add different struts and springs it becomes slightly debatable but I'll say that your Team Z K member lacks bracing and probably has no geometry changes to improve handling. I hope this helps but you need to do some reading and choose parts wisely if you want the car to do what you say you want it to do. [/QUOTE]
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