Home
What's new
Latest activity
Authors
Store
Latest reviews
Search products
Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New listings
New products
New profile posts
Latest activity
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
Cart
Cart
Loading…
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Search titles only
By:
Menu
Log in
Register
Navigation
Install the app
Install
More options
Change style
Contact us
Close Menu
Forums
Cobra Forums
SVT Shelby GT500
The most UNIQUE mod...... you maybe?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Poisonous West" data-source="post: 16355750" data-attributes="member: 157145"><p>I have several unique one of a kind custom design mods on my GT500.</p><p></p><p>I’ll start with my custom unique CAI which was designed and 3D printed back in 2014.</p><p></p><p>My first mod was the JLT 123mm CAI. The JLT 123mm is NOT real 123mm ID – it is 120mm ID (I measured that myself). After couple years then I tried the Steeda 130mm CAI but the Steeda tube is such a bad design. I have seen the C&L CAI in person and I can said the C&L CAI is the WORST. So, I decided to design my own custom CAI.</p><p></p><p>I first investigated different size of CAI available in the market. The stock OEM size is 105mm ID. The JLT 123 is actually 120mm ID. The FRPP CAI has 2 different size, 123mm and 148mm ID. The FRPP are true 123 and 148mm ID. The KB Gimme 5” is 5” OD – NOT ID. All tubing is sold in OD, not ID. The KB Gimme 5” is a 5” OD steel tubing with 18-gauge wall thickness (0.0478”). So, the ID is 127mm - 1.22mm - 1.22mm = 124.6mm.</p><p></p><p>The KB Gimme 5” can support 1000RWHP easily so I know 124mm ID is a good starting point. When selecting the ID size, I have to consider the idle speed quality and one of the factors is the idle airflow speed at the MAF sensor. At idle speed (750 RPM), the smaller ID (smaller cross section) would give better signal due to higher airflow speed but would limit the max HP at top end. The FRPP 148mm ID would give max HP but idle speed quality would not be as good as the 123 / 124mm ID (1mm ID would not make much different, a 10-degree change in inlet air temperature or IAT2 makes more different). Since idle quality is a main concern so I my final decision is 136mm ID.</p><p></p><p>Another factor is the air filter design. Most people don’t realize how much the air filter design can impact the engine performance. The JLT 123mm filter has 5” (127mm) opening with an integrated metal mesh design. There are 2 main purposes of the metal mash. First, it is the last line of defend in case some large foreign objects gone thru the filter elements. The other function is to straighten / smoothen (reduce turbulence) of the inlet air before reaching to the MAP sensor for better signal. But the downside is reduced opening and slows down inlet air speed. A typical metal mesh efficiency range from 0.21 to 0.24 depends on the wire diameter and the density of the mesh (in per in^2). The JLT 123mm intake filter has 5” opening with metal mesh (assume the mesh efficiency is 0.21) the total opening area is π*r^2 *0.79 = π*(63.5mm)^2 *0.79 = 10007.5mm2.</p><p></p><p>I started looking at different filter offer by several companies and 1 particular air filter caught my attention which is sold by Steeda. At that time I did NOT know there is a company PMAS CAI with a filter design exactly the same as Steeda except is a 7” (177.8mm) opening. This unique Steeda air filter design has 6” (152.4mm) opening without metal mesh. For those that do not know, the Steeda filter incorporates a reverse cone INSIDE the filter (shown in the below pictures) to straighten / smoothen (reduce turbulence) of the inlet air before reaching to the MAP sensor. The Steeda air filter has a 6” (152.4mm) opening without metal mesh so the total opening area is π*r^2 = π*(76.2mm)^2 = 18241.5mm2.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1620329[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1620330[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>The last factor is the material used to make this CAI. For those that has the KB Gimme 5. You all know how hot that metal tube can get on a hot summer day with the hood closed. The intake air will pick up some of the heat from the heated KB metal intake tube which I don’t want. I need a material which has minimum thermal conductivity / heat transfer while can survival all the NVH issue inside the hot engine compartment. After talking to a co- worker and got a contact which leads to another contact, I finally got to the right person for the material. He told me a material ALL major automaker (US, Japanese, etc) used to 3D print their intake manifold design for prototype testing, both on engine dyno and on vehicle field test. In fact, that’s the material most of the race team use to 3D print their intake manifold for engine dyno test result. He even shown me a returned 3D print intake manifold which survive 100,000 miles on vehicle field test. I asked him what would it take (cost) to 3D print my custom CAI for my GT500. He told me “just send me the file and see what I can do”. About 5 days later he told me my CAI is ready to pickup and that’s how I got it made at no cost – I guess I got lucky this time. I did ask him regarding the crystal-clear transparent resin used on the display engine cover and the answer is those 3D print clear transparent resin is ONLY for display purpose. They would not survive the under-hood environment.</p><p></p><p> </p><p></p><p>When designing the CAI:</p><p></p><p>* It's a true 136mm ID CAI</p><p></p><p>* The outlet oval of the CAI has similar cross sectional area to the inlet elliptical cross sectional area of the KB throttle body </p><p></p><p>* A 1-piece design with extreme smooth transition in a span of at least 12” (304.8mm) in length. What I mean smooth transition is from true circle (136mm ID) right after the MAF sensor to the oval outlet (exit of the CAI). If you look at the KB Gimme 5 CAI. The 5” OD tubing is a straight tube then connects to 4” (101.6mm) in length silicon coupler. The coupler inlet is a 5” true circle and the outlet is an elliptical sharp which all happen in only 101.6mm in length. I want this transition happens in at least 12” long which gives much more smooth and gradual flow.</p><p></p><p>* The inlet has to have some kind of bell mouth feature to smooth out in coming air. (As mentioned earlier, I did not know PMAS sell the exact design air filter just like Steeda except in 7" opening. Otherwise I would choose the PMAS 7" opening filter so I can incorporate a much bigger and better smoother flow bell mouth inlet).</p><p></p><p>* It has the bungs for the 2 hose connections.</p><p></p><p>* Lastly, the design must have 2 positive stops – 1 for the air filter install and the other for the rear silicon coupler sits between the exit of the CAI and the throttle body inlet. For those has the JLT CAI, you all know there is not marking on the tube indicates how far the tube has inserted into the air filter nor the rear exit silicon coupler. You have to guess, then trial and error to find the right insertion length. JLT has no idea in term of design – they are quite LUCKY they sell lots of their CAI product. If I am the one design this JLT CAI and show it to the design chief / leader. I can guarantee he / she will kick my ass out of the door and I am not kidding. No body wants to guess and I would rather guess which stock would goes up in the near future or which numbers would show up in the next lottery drawing. That’s why I said JLT do NOT know anything in terms of design nor don’t know anything in terms of CAI design and don’t even know what a good air filter design.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Plan view:</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1620331[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>Front view</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1620333[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>Side view</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1620334[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>True rear outlet view</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1620335[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>3D printed in special engineering material (painted in school bus yellow) installed with KB 3.6L/C supercharger</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1620336[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Poisonous West, post: 16355750, member: 157145"] I have several unique one of a kind custom design mods on my GT500. I’ll start with my custom unique CAI which was designed and 3D printed back in 2014. My first mod was the JLT 123mm CAI. The JLT 123mm is NOT real 123mm ID – it is 120mm ID (I measured that myself). After couple years then I tried the Steeda 130mm CAI but the Steeda tube is such a bad design. I have seen the C&L CAI in person and I can said the C&L CAI is the WORST. So, I decided to design my own custom CAI. I first investigated different size of CAI available in the market. The stock OEM size is 105mm ID. The JLT 123 is actually 120mm ID. The FRPP CAI has 2 different size, 123mm and 148mm ID. The FRPP are true 123 and 148mm ID. The KB Gimme 5” is 5” OD – NOT ID. All tubing is sold in OD, not ID. The KB Gimme 5” is a 5” OD steel tubing with 18-gauge wall thickness (0.0478”). So, the ID is 127mm - 1.22mm - 1.22mm = 124.6mm. The KB Gimme 5” can support 1000RWHP easily so I know 124mm ID is a good starting point. When selecting the ID size, I have to consider the idle speed quality and one of the factors is the idle airflow speed at the MAF sensor. At idle speed (750 RPM), the smaller ID (smaller cross section) would give better signal due to higher airflow speed but would limit the max HP at top end. The FRPP 148mm ID would give max HP but idle speed quality would not be as good as the 123 / 124mm ID (1mm ID would not make much different, a 10-degree change in inlet air temperature or IAT2 makes more different). Since idle quality is a main concern so I my final decision is 136mm ID. Another factor is the air filter design. Most people don’t realize how much the air filter design can impact the engine performance. The JLT 123mm filter has 5” (127mm) opening with an integrated metal mesh design. There are 2 main purposes of the metal mash. First, it is the last line of defend in case some large foreign objects gone thru the filter elements. The other function is to straighten / smoothen (reduce turbulence) of the inlet air before reaching to the MAP sensor for better signal. But the downside is reduced opening and slows down inlet air speed. A typical metal mesh efficiency range from 0.21 to 0.24 depends on the wire diameter and the density of the mesh (in per in^2). The JLT 123mm intake filter has 5” opening with metal mesh (assume the mesh efficiency is 0.21) the total opening area is π*r^2 *0.79 = π*(63.5mm)^2 *0.79 = 10007.5mm2. I started looking at different filter offer by several companies and 1 particular air filter caught my attention which is sold by Steeda. At that time I did NOT know there is a company PMAS CAI with a filter design exactly the same as Steeda except is a 7” (177.8mm) opening. This unique Steeda air filter design has 6” (152.4mm) opening without metal mesh. For those that do not know, the Steeda filter incorporates a reverse cone INSIDE the filter (shown in the below pictures) to straighten / smoothen (reduce turbulence) of the inlet air before reaching to the MAP sensor. The Steeda air filter has a 6” (152.4mm) opening without metal mesh so the total opening area is π*r^2 = π*(76.2mm)^2 = 18241.5mm2. [ATTACH=full]1620329[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1620330[/ATTACH] The last factor is the material used to make this CAI. For those that has the KB Gimme 5. You all know how hot that metal tube can get on a hot summer day with the hood closed. The intake air will pick up some of the heat from the heated KB metal intake tube which I don’t want. I need a material which has minimum thermal conductivity / heat transfer while can survival all the NVH issue inside the hot engine compartment. After talking to a co- worker and got a contact which leads to another contact, I finally got to the right person for the material. He told me a material ALL major automaker (US, Japanese, etc) used to 3D print their intake manifold design for prototype testing, both on engine dyno and on vehicle field test. In fact, that’s the material most of the race team use to 3D print their intake manifold for engine dyno test result. He even shown me a returned 3D print intake manifold which survive 100,000 miles on vehicle field test. I asked him what would it take (cost) to 3D print my custom CAI for my GT500. He told me “just send me the file and see what I can do”. About 5 days later he told me my CAI is ready to pickup and that’s how I got it made at no cost – I guess I got lucky this time. I did ask him regarding the crystal-clear transparent resin used on the display engine cover and the answer is those 3D print clear transparent resin is ONLY for display purpose. They would not survive the under-hood environment. When designing the CAI: * It's a true 136mm ID CAI * The outlet oval of the CAI has similar cross sectional area to the inlet elliptical cross sectional area of the KB throttle body * A 1-piece design with extreme smooth transition in a span of at least 12” (304.8mm) in length. What I mean smooth transition is from true circle (136mm ID) right after the MAF sensor to the oval outlet (exit of the CAI). If you look at the KB Gimme 5 CAI. The 5” OD tubing is a straight tube then connects to 4” (101.6mm) in length silicon coupler. The coupler inlet is a 5” true circle and the outlet is an elliptical sharp which all happen in only 101.6mm in length. I want this transition happens in at least 12” long which gives much more smooth and gradual flow. * The inlet has to have some kind of bell mouth feature to smooth out in coming air. (As mentioned earlier, I did not know PMAS sell the exact design air filter just like Steeda except in 7" opening. Otherwise I would choose the PMAS 7" opening filter so I can incorporate a much bigger and better smoother flow bell mouth inlet). * It has the bungs for the 2 hose connections. * Lastly, the design must have 2 positive stops – 1 for the air filter install and the other for the rear silicon coupler sits between the exit of the CAI and the throttle body inlet. For those has the JLT CAI, you all know there is not marking on the tube indicates how far the tube has inserted into the air filter nor the rear exit silicon coupler. You have to guess, then trial and error to find the right insertion length. JLT has no idea in term of design – they are quite LUCKY they sell lots of their CAI product. If I am the one design this JLT CAI and show it to the design chief / leader. I can guarantee he / she will kick my ass out of the door and I am not kidding. No body wants to guess and I would rather guess which stock would goes up in the near future or which numbers would show up in the next lottery drawing. That’s why I said JLT do NOT know anything in terms of design nor don’t know anything in terms of CAI design and don’t even know what a good air filter design. Plan view: [ATTACH=full]1620331[/ATTACH] Front view [ATTACH=full]1620333[/ATTACH] Side view [ATTACH=full]1620334[/ATTACH] True rear outlet view [ATTACH=full]1620335[/ATTACH] 3D printed in special engineering material (painted in school bus yellow) installed with KB 3.6L/C supercharger [ATTACH=full]1620336[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Cobra Forums
SVT Shelby GT500
The most UNIQUE mod...... you maybe?
Top