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SVTPerformance's Chain of Restaurants
Road Side Pub
Torque, loctite, both, or neither?
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<blockquote data-quote="CV355" data-source="post: 16017130" data-attributes="member: 181885"><p>Blue loctite won't hurt anything, but torque to spec is industry-ok.</p><p></p><p>With high torque fasteners, sometimes the torque requirement is at the yield point. This is often the case with head bolts/studs. Anything that is torque to yield needs to be replaced if removed. (not the case for caliper bolts).</p><p></p><p>I am doing a Wilwood conversion on the '69, and they specifically called out red loctite (262 I think?). </p><p></p><p>I know of a certain shouldnt-be-mechanic that silicones in every damn bolt after coating them in anti-seize. The only time I've seen that being remotely necessary is in direct-drive open face gearboxes that will have grease behind the fastener.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>That's why I have a torque wrench in every socket drawer. 1/4, 3/8, 1/2. We have a 3/4 and 1" torque wrench at work for large robot fasteners (M30+)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="CV355, post: 16017130, member: 181885"] Blue loctite won't hurt anything, but torque to spec is industry-ok. With high torque fasteners, sometimes the torque requirement is at the yield point. This is often the case with head bolts/studs. Anything that is torque to yield needs to be replaced if removed. (not the case for caliper bolts). I am doing a Wilwood conversion on the '69, and they specifically called out red loctite (262 I think?). I know of a certain shouldnt-be-mechanic that silicones in every damn bolt after coating them in anti-seize. The only time I've seen that being remotely necessary is in direct-drive open face gearboxes that will have grease behind the fastener. That's why I have a torque wrench in every socket drawer. 1/4, 3/8, 1/2. We have a 3/4 and 1" torque wrench at work for large robot fasteners (M30+) [/QUOTE]
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SVTPerformance's Chain of Restaurants
Road Side Pub
Torque, loctite, both, or neither?
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