Hey im looking for the specific type of oil i should be using on my 2000 svt contour engine. i never got the manual when i got the car so i need to know if its anything special for oil and filters. thanks for any help!
type of oil
- Thread starter Brandon882
- Start date
There is no need for that much oil. Run 6, the "starvation" comes from a lack of maintenance and not checking the oil level.
motorcraft filter is a FL-820S
I'd going to have to disagree with you there. 90% of CEG runs 6.5 quarts. There is much more to the starvation issue than "not checking the oil".
The oil starvation problem is a well known fact. The 2.5L heads lack rear drains. All 3L's have the drains and the 2.5L engine was FINALLY revised in ~2002 (the engine debuted 10 years prior ) and now has these drains. Yes Ford knows, has known, about this problem too. It is Ford's engineers you can blame for this problem as well. They changed (hack shortened) the engine design they commissioned Porsche to do and caused numerous problems. Cracker jack degrees all around for those folks!
The Duratec oil pan was revised numerous times. The last revision helps mildly but does not eliminate this problem. Without these drains the engine will starve. It's not an if but almost more like a when if you drive it overly hard. This is also why it is recommended to run 6.2-6.5qts of synthetic oil. (even though factory fill is only 5.8qts) Another band aid helper for this built in problem.
-Originally posted my DemonSVT.
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thnx guys, i was really searching for this and its good to know what to use.
since thats covered i have a very odd question but i could be blind to this.. ok so the body of my car is appearently a 1996 so with that i have the 1996 front fave, im sure you all know of. now! looking at the back of my car it has the backend of a 2000 contour. following? lol
ive looked all over google for the 1996 ford contour and the 2000 contour yet i havent see a contour with both the 96 front and 2000 backend. so if theres anyone with the same car or have seen this please let me know, cause im going nuts.
ive looked all over google for the 1996 ford contour and the 2000 contour yet i havent see a contour with both the 96 front and 2000 backend. so if theres anyone with the same car or have seen this please let me know, cause im going nuts.
on the oil starvation ... if this was really the case the main bearings would fail first, not the rod bearings. I have watched my oil pressure guage on sweeping right hand turns and it doesn't move at all. I do run 6 qts of oil at least.
the way the rods are made is why they stretch over time and let the bearing spin. alot of the problems are from people not checking the oil level, and by then its to late.
the way the rods are made is why they stretch over time and let the bearing spin. alot of the problems are from people not checking the oil level, and by then its to late.
I Agree With Brapple
I agree with Brapple. Oil starvation occurs with the mains first not the rods. I have seen a lot of 2.5s, some wrecked, some tuckerd out and not one of them had a blown motor. Worn out but not blown. I'm not sure over filling is wise either. Over filling can also cause the cats to fail prematurely. As oil is a coolant as well, it is very important to keep the level up. Driving around a quart low is stupid in the extreme. Having said that, the oil you use is important if you drive hard. A good quality synthetic (Royal Purple, Amsoil) is a must for protection from cold start-up (you need fast pump-up) and high revs (impact resistance) as is a good quality filter. Mobil One makes great filters and so do K&N and Amsoil. Fram filters and other bargain brands bypass way early and are junk on the inside (cardboard caps, etc.). Also remember that as your car ages it needs increased viscosity. 5/30 works fine but if you start consistently using oil (say, one a quart every 1.5K) it may be time to move up to a thicker oil. Skip the oil "blends" are a waste of time and money. If you are on a budget use Mobil One. It's a cracked wax derived oil but is good stuff. Not as good as the polys like Royal Purple, etc. but better than mineral oils. If you absolutely have to have a "blended" oil, do a quart of synthetic and the rest mineral. Same thing, less money. Oh, and not driving your car like it's stolen is wise too.
I agree with Brapple. Oil starvation occurs with the mains first not the rods. I have seen a lot of 2.5s, some wrecked, some tuckerd out and not one of them had a blown motor. Worn out but not blown. I'm not sure over filling is wise either. Over filling can also cause the cats to fail prematurely. As oil is a coolant as well, it is very important to keep the level up. Driving around a quart low is stupid in the extreme. Having said that, the oil you use is important if you drive hard. A good quality synthetic (Royal Purple, Amsoil) is a must for protection from cold start-up (you need fast pump-up) and high revs (impact resistance) as is a good quality filter. Mobil One makes great filters and so do K&N and Amsoil. Fram filters and other bargain brands bypass way early and are junk on the inside (cardboard caps, etc.). Also remember that as your car ages it needs increased viscosity. 5/30 works fine but if you start consistently using oil (say, one a quart every 1.5K) it may be time to move up to a thicker oil. Skip the oil "blends" are a waste of time and money. If you are on a budget use Mobil One. It's a cracked wax derived oil but is good stuff. Not as good as the polys like Royal Purple, etc. but better than mineral oils. If you absolutely have to have a "blended" oil, do a quart of synthetic and the rest mineral. Same thing, less money. Oh, and not driving your car like it's stolen is wise too.
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