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SVT Shelby GT500
Valve cover swap in humid garage
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<blockquote data-quote="mdoan" data-source="post: 16427827" data-attributes="member: 44126"><p>The drivers side is absolutely the bad side. I move slowly and meticulously, tape off and label all loose connectors, zip tie everything out of the way, overthink everything etc etc and I probably have 24 hours in this project. Just the drivers side. To a normal person that’s probably more like 8-10 hours. If I had just removed the booster the way the Ford manual suggests it would’ve taken half the time.</p><p></p><p>This link is a detailed step by step that gets you close, but in my opinion doesn’t get you there as you’ll still be fighting to get the old cover off and the new one on - which means tearing the new one up or cutting the gasket:</p><p><a href="https://www.fordgt500.com/threads/how-to-install-blue-valve-covers.13203/#lg=attachment_xfUid-11-1590795939&slide=0" target="_blank">How to Install Blue Valve Covers</a></p><p></p><p>The author had a stock blower with removable elbow, so you’ll have to pull the blower in addition to those steps as well. You do NOT have to remove the fuel rails, just the fuel line going to the drivers side rail. I also used a ratchet strap to pull and hold the booster up and toward the fender, and another strap around the blower snout to gently pull the motor toward the passenger side (loosening the motor mounts on both sides). The motor passenger side strap didn’t help enough to make it worthwhile so I didn’t even use it on reinstall. It may buy you that critical 1/4” depending on how you go about yours. Since it was still very difficult to get the old one off, I simply removed the booster to install the new cover. I also removed the drivers seat, and do not regret it.</p><p></p><p>If you’re familiar with dropping the k-member, that is honestly the easiest way, but you’ll need longer bolts for the drivers side (Catmonkey suggested this and I believe he’s done it) and you’ll have to remove the sway bar and sway bar mounts. That job just isn’t something I felt comfortable enough with but would undoubtedly be faster if you are and it gets you enough clearance.</p><p></p><p>Going by the how-to above, the booster is already 90% removed. I removed the front drivers side tire and caliper hard line to drain the reservoir as far as possible before removing the lines at the reservoir. Then I ran a vacuum hose taped to a makeshift funnel underneath the booster hard line connections and out below the car through the engine bay to avoid as much fluid hitting the engine bay paint as possible. Rags took care of the rest. Ideally, buy a couple bolts the same size as the hard line male ends to plug off the reservoir that way. They’re not the same size. Twisted up shop towels worked ok instead.</p><p></p><p>Honestly even with the motor dropped down that booster still looks problematic to me - since you’re going to be reinstalling with a soft gasket and wet RTV on the front timing cover seams - but I haven’t attempted it so can’t say for sure. If you have to loosen the booster to jerk it to one side either way, I strongly recommend just removing it. It wasn’t difficult and no matter how hard you pull/ratchet strap it only buys you 1/2”-3/4” tops. Once I had the booster out I had plenty of clearance for a smooth install. The gasket kit can be found at any auto parts store but you can probably reuse the old one if you’re willing to take the chance of a soul crushing leak. The felpro kit comes with black cover bolt grommets which looks better than OEM grays, though I’m waiting on a set of BPS bolts/spacers ultimately.</p><p></p><p>I honestly don’t know if I’d do it again knowing now what it took, even though I could probably do it in 6 hours now.</p><p></p><p>Pictures:</p><p>[MEDIA=flickr]49952112181[/MEDIA]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="mdoan, post: 16427827, member: 44126"] The drivers side is absolutely the bad side. I move slowly and meticulously, tape off and label all loose connectors, zip tie everything out of the way, overthink everything etc etc and I probably have 24 hours in this project. Just the drivers side. To a normal person that’s probably more like 8-10 hours. If I had just removed the booster the way the Ford manual suggests it would’ve taken half the time. This link is a detailed step by step that gets you close, but in my opinion doesn’t get you there as you’ll still be fighting to get the old cover off and the new one on - which means tearing the new one up or cutting the gasket: [URL='https://www.fordgt500.com/threads/how-to-install-blue-valve-covers.13203/#lg=attachment_xfUid-11-1590795939&slide=0']How to Install Blue Valve Covers[/URL] The author had a stock blower with removable elbow, so you’ll have to pull the blower in addition to those steps as well. You do NOT have to remove the fuel rails, just the fuel line going to the drivers side rail. I also used a ratchet strap to pull and hold the booster up and toward the fender, and another strap around the blower snout to gently pull the motor toward the passenger side (loosening the motor mounts on both sides). The motor passenger side strap didn’t help enough to make it worthwhile so I didn’t even use it on reinstall. It may buy you that critical 1/4” depending on how you go about yours. Since it was still very difficult to get the old one off, I simply removed the booster to install the new cover. I also removed the drivers seat, and do not regret it. If you’re familiar with dropping the k-member, that is honestly the easiest way, but you’ll need longer bolts for the drivers side (Catmonkey suggested this and I believe he’s done it) and you’ll have to remove the sway bar and sway bar mounts. That job just isn’t something I felt comfortable enough with but would undoubtedly be faster if you are and it gets you enough clearance. Going by the how-to above, the booster is already 90% removed. I removed the front drivers side tire and caliper hard line to drain the reservoir as far as possible before removing the lines at the reservoir. Then I ran a vacuum hose taped to a makeshift funnel underneath the booster hard line connections and out below the car through the engine bay to avoid as much fluid hitting the engine bay paint as possible. Rags took care of the rest. Ideally, buy a couple bolts the same size as the hard line male ends to plug off the reservoir that way. They’re not the same size. Twisted up shop towels worked ok instead. Honestly even with the motor dropped down that booster still looks problematic to me - since you’re going to be reinstalling with a soft gasket and wet RTV on the front timing cover seams - but I haven’t attempted it so can’t say for sure. If you have to loosen the booster to jerk it to one side either way, I strongly recommend just removing it. It wasn’t difficult and no matter how hard you pull/ratchet strap it only buys you 1/2”-3/4” tops. Once I had the booster out I had plenty of clearance for a smooth install. The gasket kit can be found at any auto parts store but you can probably reuse the old one if you’re willing to take the chance of a soul crushing leak. The felpro kit comes with black cover bolt grommets which looks better than OEM grays, though I’m waiting on a set of BPS bolts/spacers ultimately. I honestly don’t know if I’d do it again knowing now what it took, even though I could probably do it in 6 hours now. Pictures: [MEDIA=flickr]49952112181[/MEDIA] [/QUOTE]
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