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SVT Shelby GT500
VMP GEN 3
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<blockquote data-quote="mdoan" data-source="post: 16415426" data-attributes="member: 44126"><p>I think you have the right plan. The only question mark I see is whether or not you will need an idler pulley to keep adequate tension on the belt since belt routing may or may not be close enough between the 13/14 and '12 models.</p><p></p><p>A lot of owners use the metco idler pulley (myself included), but there are plenty other options out there to choose between if you don't like the look or need a different position/size, etc. Hopefully someone who has done the 13/14 mod can chime in on belt tension. You could also contact metco (or any idler manufacturer you think you might go with) by phone and let them know your plans and they should be able to point you in the right direction. I did make one error in my post above - the metco is designed to be used with a 2.6" pulley if using a VMP blower/pulley in terms of being able to use the stock belt on our cars, not 2.4". You're not going to grenade everything if you're 0.1" to 0.2" off, but it can very well cause premature serpentine accessory pulley bearing failures, including the harmonic balancer (which I just replaced). At 2.5" I'd think you are on the "safer" side but I don't know where the 13/14 pulley snout sits compared to the '12 stocker or '12 VMP blower.</p><p></p><p>Long story short, if you're able to verify the right idler (if needed at all) and pulley combo to reuse the stock belt size, or can determine another belt length to use that'll accomplish the same goal - keeping near stock tension on the serpentine system - you should be good to go with the other mods mentioned above.</p><p></p><p>You have the right cold-air intake size for daily driveability; depending on which tuner you go with, if you have any idle issues don't be afraid to try the stock throttle body (if you have one). Do you have the 13/14 TB? A reputable shop should be able to tune out any idle issues but it was easier for me personally just to go back to the stock '10 TB and still make plenty of power as I hadn't yet found a local shop I could go to. With the larger TB I would get idle drops (almost to stalling) typically when approaching a red light and shifting into neutral.</p><p></p><p>In any case, you will need a tuning update any time you change the supercharger pulley, cold-air intake, throttle body, fuel injectors, or Boost-A-Pump. VMP tunes I believe are $50-$100 unless you purchase one of these components affecting the tuning, in which case the tune is free. A local shop may have to put it back on the dyno each time they retune it, which could get expensive, but they should also be able to get it right the first time if they know what they're doing. A lot of owners here also use Lund tuning and have had good experience with them if you go the email tune route, however I prefer VMP personally. A dyno tune at a good shop is going to net you the best results, though.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="mdoan, post: 16415426, member: 44126"] I think you have the right plan. The only question mark I see is whether or not you will need an idler pulley to keep adequate tension on the belt since belt routing may or may not be close enough between the 13/14 and '12 models. A lot of owners use the metco idler pulley (myself included), but there are plenty other options out there to choose between if you don't like the look or need a different position/size, etc. Hopefully someone who has done the 13/14 mod can chime in on belt tension. You could also contact metco (or any idler manufacturer you think you might go with) by phone and let them know your plans and they should be able to point you in the right direction. I did make one error in my post above - the metco is designed to be used with a 2.6" pulley if using a VMP blower/pulley in terms of being able to use the stock belt on our cars, not 2.4". You're not going to grenade everything if you're 0.1" to 0.2" off, but it can very well cause premature serpentine accessory pulley bearing failures, including the harmonic balancer (which I just replaced). At 2.5" I'd think you are on the "safer" side but I don't know where the 13/14 pulley snout sits compared to the '12 stocker or '12 VMP blower. Long story short, if you're able to verify the right idler (if needed at all) and pulley combo to reuse the stock belt size, or can determine another belt length to use that'll accomplish the same goal - keeping near stock tension on the serpentine system - you should be good to go with the other mods mentioned above. You have the right cold-air intake size for daily driveability; depending on which tuner you go with, if you have any idle issues don't be afraid to try the stock throttle body (if you have one). Do you have the 13/14 TB? A reputable shop should be able to tune out any idle issues but it was easier for me personally just to go back to the stock '10 TB and still make plenty of power as I hadn't yet found a local shop I could go to. With the larger TB I would get idle drops (almost to stalling) typically when approaching a red light and shifting into neutral. In any case, you will need a tuning update any time you change the supercharger pulley, cold-air intake, throttle body, fuel injectors, or Boost-A-Pump. VMP tunes I believe are $50-$100 unless you purchase one of these components affecting the tuning, in which case the tune is free. A local shop may have to put it back on the dyno each time they retune it, which could get expensive, but they should also be able to get it right the first time if they know what they're doing. A lot of owners here also use Lund tuning and have had good experience with them if you go the email tune route, however I prefer VMP personally. A dyno tune at a good shop is going to net you the best results, though. [/QUOTE]
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