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SVTPerformance's Chain of Restaurants
Show'n'Shine Saloon
Well...here's my exterior detailing guide (56K = death)
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<blockquote data-quote="turbocake" data-source="post: 2139129" data-attributes="member: 24458"><p>i used to detail cars professionally (still do my mustang, of course).</p><p></p><p>I recommend using MANY more towels. The microfiber are cool, sure, but nothing beats a perfectly clean towel. It seems that the whole point of much of this is to remove swirl marks on dark colors.</p><p></p><p>I recommend the synthetic cheapy wash mits because they're so much more volumous and able to trap dirt in their innards. The fact that they are synthetic is actually the key. The action of the mit is to move dirt from the car's surface, up into the body of the mit. The easier that dirt moves along the fiber, the less it is compressed to the surface of the paint as you wipe.</p><p></p><p>Flipping often and rinsing well is also key. Take a look at your dirty wash mit pic and look at the buildup of dirt (the abrasives that create your swirls) on the edges of the pad vs. the center area. These mits are nice and fuzzy when soft, but have far more traction when wet than a synthetic mit. Sucks that people pay more for something that actually does a worse job, but that's part of life, I guess.</p><p></p><p>Anyway, as far as applying those products, right on, that's all good stuff... I only mention the intentional bulk usage of towels because of the reality of their benefit for this specific thread. Costco sells big wads of towels for like 13 bucks. Go buy two of those and keep a large laundry bag around for keeping the clean supply in. Every time you wash/wax the car, you constantly have perfectly clean towels for any use. The best is for glass cleaning. Once done drying the car, wipe them off with one towel per front and rear glass, then side glass, one per side. You can feel the film get raked off and the glass will be smooth once done, especially with some rainex, for which lots of clean towels is also a great thing. </p><p></p><p>Think of a clean white towel as an ultra-sponge for everything you want to keep off of your car, whether dirt, dried wax, or swirl remover. Terry cloth's loops lift dirt off and keep it up better than straight fibers (but are a lame marketing gimmic compared to "microfiber" towels. I wonder if nanofiber towels will be next).</p><p></p><p>Use the hose to sheet the water off the car before trying to dry it. I use a new black and decker leaf blower to get all the tough spots completely dry (mirrors, lug holes, F/R bumpers, etc.) then go back with a "water sprite" (<--- brand name of the best detailing tool you can possibly buy, look it up and order the biggest one you can, wash it 5 or 6 times with the towels and it will then be in optimum performance condition. Makes drying your car a breeze and the wax will last many times longer vs. using any sort of towel.)</p><p></p><p>Doesn't simple green have an "old man" smell to it? I think so, but either way, it works great for the engine compartment. I wax my valve covers and anything I want to stay clean(er) because of good wax filling up the pores before the dirt does - which also works well for painted wheels (or the painted part of a wheel) but don't even think about it if you have the machined finish cuz that will stain them.</p><p></p><p>EDIT - I don't want to come across as dissing the MF. I'd love to pay 50 bucks for a giant bag of them, but I don't think the GP would bring it down that much <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> For the speed of completion I need, lots and lots of clean goes further than far less number of moderately, at best, longer lived units.</p><p></p><p>Ok, there's more stuff but too much to type, hope this helps y'all.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="turbocake, post: 2139129, member: 24458"] i used to detail cars professionally (still do my mustang, of course). I recommend using MANY more towels. The microfiber are cool, sure, but nothing beats a perfectly clean towel. It seems that the whole point of much of this is to remove swirl marks on dark colors. I recommend the synthetic cheapy wash mits because they're so much more volumous and able to trap dirt in their innards. The fact that they are synthetic is actually the key. The action of the mit is to move dirt from the car's surface, up into the body of the mit. The easier that dirt moves along the fiber, the less it is compressed to the surface of the paint as you wipe. Flipping often and rinsing well is also key. Take a look at your dirty wash mit pic and look at the buildup of dirt (the abrasives that create your swirls) on the edges of the pad vs. the center area. These mits are nice and fuzzy when soft, but have far more traction when wet than a synthetic mit. Sucks that people pay more for something that actually does a worse job, but that's part of life, I guess. Anyway, as far as applying those products, right on, that's all good stuff... I only mention the intentional bulk usage of towels because of the reality of their benefit for this specific thread. Costco sells big wads of towels for like 13 bucks. Go buy two of those and keep a large laundry bag around for keeping the clean supply in. Every time you wash/wax the car, you constantly have perfectly clean towels for any use. The best is for glass cleaning. Once done drying the car, wipe them off with one towel per front and rear glass, then side glass, one per side. You can feel the film get raked off and the glass will be smooth once done, especially with some rainex, for which lots of clean towels is also a great thing. Think of a clean white towel as an ultra-sponge for everything you want to keep off of your car, whether dirt, dried wax, or swirl remover. Terry cloth's loops lift dirt off and keep it up better than straight fibers (but are a lame marketing gimmic compared to "microfiber" towels. I wonder if nanofiber towels will be next). Use the hose to sheet the water off the car before trying to dry it. I use a new black and decker leaf blower to get all the tough spots completely dry (mirrors, lug holes, F/R bumpers, etc.) then go back with a "water sprite" (<--- brand name of the best detailing tool you can possibly buy, look it up and order the biggest one you can, wash it 5 or 6 times with the towels and it will then be in optimum performance condition. Makes drying your car a breeze and the wax will last many times longer vs. using any sort of towel.) Doesn't simple green have an "old man" smell to it? I think so, but either way, it works great for the engine compartment. I wax my valve covers and anything I want to stay clean(er) because of good wax filling up the pores before the dirt does - which also works well for painted wheels (or the painted part of a wheel) but don't even think about it if you have the machined finish cuz that will stain them. EDIT - I don't want to come across as dissing the MF. I'd love to pay 50 bucks for a giant bag of them, but I don't think the GP would bring it down that much :) For the speed of completion I need, lots and lots of clean goes further than far less number of moderately, at best, longer lived units. Ok, there's more stuff but too much to type, hope this helps y'all. [/QUOTE]
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SVTPerformance's Chain of Restaurants
Show'n'Shine Saloon
Well...here's my exterior detailing guide (56K = death)
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