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SN95 Cobras
What's with the weird "idle" characteristics of my/your cobra anyway
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<blockquote data-quote="Cobra Jet" data-source="post: 16977070" data-attributes="member: 127353"><p>[USER=204906]@I_like_turtlez[/USER] </p><p></p><p>Check your PM on here about headlights..</p><p></p><p>—</p><p></p><p>I’ve never really experienced any real idle issues with my 94 Cobra. Sometimes a dirty MAF and throttle body will cause slight up/downs with the idle.</p><p></p><p>Pop the air intake tube off the throttle body and use genuine EFI Throttle Body Cleaner and spray down the butterfly (both sides) and then spray down the throttle body neck too. Do not ever use anything else but EFI throttle body cleaner - don’t use “carb cleaner” or “brake cleaner”, it will damage and strip the protective coating off the interior of the throttle body and blade.</p><p></p><p>As for the MAF, carefully pull the sensor from the housing and use genuine EFI MAF cleaner, don’t use any other product. Get a Q-tip, saturate the Q-Tip head with the MAF cleaner and gently clean the very very tiny resistor on the bottom of the sensor. Do NOT press onto the resistor, just gently glide over it. Let it dry and then reinstall.</p><p></p><p>Before starting the car, disconnect the battery, let sit for a good 10-15 mins, then reconnect. Start the car and your idle should be a lot better than it was previously to the above cleanings.</p><p></p><p>If you haven’t, I would pull your plugs and check their condition. Another thing to check is the spark plug wires, they don’t last forever and even if they “look ok” from the outside of the wire, doesn’t always mean they are. </p><p></p><p>Spark plug wires don’t last forever and (2) things happen:</p><p>- The internal core breaks down over time even if the outer casing is in good shape. When the core becomes degraded, so does spark which affects idle/drivability/power.</p><p>- The core wire can become gradually separated from the contact within the boot from when checking plugs.</p><p></p><p></p><p>The whole “set the TPS” sensor is an internet and old magazine myth…. Fiddling with it really doesn’t produce any real world results as much as anyone wants to believe. Sure, you can make the holes oblong and wiggle it and get a different value on your meter reading, but in the grand scheme of things, it’s not going to make one bit of difference to the PCM. As long as it’s within the Ford spec, that’s the only target to be concerned about,</p><p></p><p>The IAC can be cleaned. Remove it, douse it in EFI TB cleaner (fill it). Cap the holes and shake it vigorously. Empty, repeat and get as much of the carbon cleaned out as possible. If you have a small brush to get in and agitate the carbon, that’s better too. Repeat the douse/empty process a few times, then let it sit and dry… Reinstall and it should be good for another 50k miles.</p><p></p><p>All the IAC is is a spring loaded piston that gets triggered by the PCM. When the interior of the IAC can gets funked up with carbon deposits, it affects how that piston moves (and if there is enough carbon deposit in it, the piston will be frozen). I’ve done this cleaning process on countless Mustangs and never had an issue cleaning the IAC. Why spend $60-$100+ on a new IAC when the existing can be cleaned for less than $10.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Cobra Jet, post: 16977070, member: 127353"] [USER=204906]@I_like_turtlez[/USER] Check your PM on here about headlights.. — I’ve never really experienced any real idle issues with my 94 Cobra. Sometimes a dirty MAF and throttle body will cause slight up/downs with the idle. Pop the air intake tube off the throttle body and use genuine EFI Throttle Body Cleaner and spray down the butterfly (both sides) and then spray down the throttle body neck too. Do not ever use anything else but EFI throttle body cleaner - don’t use “carb cleaner” or “brake cleaner”, it will damage and strip the protective coating off the interior of the throttle body and blade. As for the MAF, carefully pull the sensor from the housing and use genuine EFI MAF cleaner, don’t use any other product. Get a Q-tip, saturate the Q-Tip head with the MAF cleaner and gently clean the very very tiny resistor on the bottom of the sensor. Do NOT press onto the resistor, just gently glide over it. Let it dry and then reinstall. Before starting the car, disconnect the battery, let sit for a good 10-15 mins, then reconnect. Start the car and your idle should be a lot better than it was previously to the above cleanings. If you haven’t, I would pull your plugs and check their condition. Another thing to check is the spark plug wires, they don’t last forever and even if they “look ok” from the outside of the wire, doesn’t always mean they are. Spark plug wires don’t last forever and (2) things happen: - The internal core breaks down over time even if the outer casing is in good shape. When the core becomes degraded, so does spark which affects idle/drivability/power. - The core wire can become gradually separated from the contact within the boot from when checking plugs. The whole “set the TPS” sensor is an internet and old magazine myth…. Fiddling with it really doesn’t produce any real world results as much as anyone wants to believe. Sure, you can make the holes oblong and wiggle it and get a different value on your meter reading, but in the grand scheme of things, it’s not going to make one bit of difference to the PCM. As long as it’s within the Ford spec, that’s the only target to be concerned about, The IAC can be cleaned. Remove it, douse it in EFI TB cleaner (fill it). Cap the holes and shake it vigorously. Empty, repeat and get as much of the carbon cleaned out as possible. If you have a small brush to get in and agitate the carbon, that’s better too. Repeat the douse/empty process a few times, then let it sit and dry… Reinstall and it should be good for another 50k miles. All the IAC is is a spring loaded piston that gets triggered by the PCM. When the interior of the IAC can gets funked up with carbon deposits, it affects how that piston moves (and if there is enough carbon deposit in it, the piston will be frozen). I’ve done this cleaning process on countless Mustangs and never had an issue cleaning the IAC. Why spend $60-$100+ on a new IAC when the existing can be cleaned for less than $10. [/QUOTE]
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What's with the weird "idle" characteristics of my/your cobra anyway
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