Who has installed Billetflows IRS support brace bracket?

Hye

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i was going to get this installed the other day at the same time as my subframe connectors because the car was up in the air and ready to go. well to make a long story short, i was running out of time as i had to be at work in an hour. the mechanic told me that he would have to drop the passenger side cat back, and possibly loosen a couple extra pieces to be able to squeeze that bracket onto the pumpkin.

did you guys remove anything when you installed it, or did you just wiggle it in there? the mechanic showed me underneath the car what he had to work with and i must say its a pretty tight fit if ur installing this piece without taking anything apart.

any feedback? cant wait to get this puppy on, awesome material and workmanship!! all these posts that i see the pumpkins busted up on 13 second 1/4 passes really makes you wonder why that piece was not there in the first place, then again thats good business for Doug :burnout: thanks for a great product
 

Juiced46

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You have to remove the tail pipes, not the mufflers. So part of the catback does have to come down. A few things on the rear have to be unbolted to move it around to get @ all the bolts. I did the install with the gas tank out on a customers car, and made it MUCH easier then if it was in there.

Dave
 

dougwg

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IRS COVER BRACE INSTALL DIRECTIONS
(W/ DIFFERENTIAL IN VEHICLE)​


1. Jack up the rear of the car. Be safe and use jack-stands. For proper jacking points, please see Ford service manual.
2. Remove passenger side of cat-back exhaust.
3. With rear of car on jack-stands, place hydraulic jack under differential (use block of wood to protect aluminum case). At this time do not put significant pressure on differential housing. The jack is only there as a safety measure to keep the differential from dropping.
4. Remove rear differential mounting bolts
5. Remove front differential mounting bolts & nuts
6. Remove the stock bolts from the locations numbered 1 through 7, as shown in image to immediate right.
7. Install the brace with the supplied bolts. Start bolts #1 - #5 and make them snug. In order to get bolt #3 installed, you will need to tilt up the rear of the differential using the jack, until you can clear the inner tie-rod mount with that bolt. Be careful when raising the differential. If it appears as if it will go no further and you can’t start bolt #3, back off and look for possible interference! Only deflect the center section enough to get bolt #3 installed. Torque down BOLT 3 ONLY to 24 lb-ft and leave the rest hand tight. **If this bolt binds before fully seated, please see tapping procedure at bottom of page!
8. Using the jack, drop the differential back to the stock position and install bolts #6 & #7. At this time, only hand tighten bolts six and seven.
9. Now torque bolts #1, #2, #4, & #5 to 24 lb-ft. **If this bolt binds before fully seated, please see tapping procedure at bottom of page!
10. Reinstall front differential mounting bolts. Torque to 52 lb-ft.
11. Torque bolts #6 & #7 to 76 lb-ft.
12. Remove hydraulic jack from under differential housing.
13. Reinstall passenger side cat-back exhaust.
14. Lower car from jack-stands.

Torque Specs (install with differential in-place)
Differential housing cover bolts 24 lb-ft (Bolts 1 through 5)
Differential rear mount bolts 76 lb-ft (Bolts 6 and 7)
Differential front mount bolt/nut 52 lb-ft

Additional Torque Specs (install w/differential removal)
Rear axle nut 251 lb-ft
Driveshaft to pinion flange bolt 83 lb-ft
Pinion brace cross-member nut 184 lb-ft
Toe link nut 35 lb-ft
Rear lower shock bolt 98 lb-ft
Knuckle to lower A-arm 85 lb-ft
Knuckle to upper A-arm 66 lb-ft (cambolt) **Do not loosen this bolt.
 

HISSMAN

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Cobra03FLA said:
Anybody else? I was understanding that it was an easy 1 hour job and you didnt have to remove the ehaust.


It is, and it is only the catback. It is a very simple install. Just do it. I am installing mine in the next week. (once it gets warmer)
 

JB

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it CAN be done without touching the exhaust, as I did mine that way....I was in a hurry and I just backed the car up on ramps and got it done

it was a little difficult figuring out how to maneuver the brace into place and I couldn't tell you how I ended up doing it but it didn't take very long
 

JB

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dougwg said:
9. Now torque bolts #1, #2, #4, & #5 to 24 lb-ft. **If this bolt binds before fully seated, please see tapping procedure at bottom of page!

it should be noted that the need for tapping has been a rare occurrence (based on feedback from customers)
 

Juiced46

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JB said:
it CAN be done without touching the exhaust, as I did mine that way....I was in a hurry and I just backed the car up on ramps and got it done

it was a little difficult figuring out how to maneuver the brace into place and I couldn't tell you how I ended up doing it but it didn't take very long

Removing the tailpipe is simple enough though. Its only 2 nuts and then you slide off the hangers. Should take you an extra 5 mins on the install
 

JB

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Juiced46 said:
Removing the tailpipe is simple enough though. Its only 2 nuts and then you slide off the hangers. Should take you an extra 5 mins on the install

yes, if you have a bolt-on catback and not a custom exhaust...
 

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