Which cold air intake is best?

[gehoben]

check engine light

if u run without reconnecting MAF connector your check engine light will come on but if u disconnect the negative side of your battery for 30 seconds and reconnect it will go off when you reconnect the MAF connector

 

[gehoben]

check engine light

if u run without reconnecting MAF connector your check engine light will come on but if u disconnect the negative side of your battery for 30 seconds and reconnect it will go off when you reconnect the MAF connector:cuss:

 

[toofast4u]

Does anybody have pictures or the dimensions of the UPR CAI filter, not the tube the filter itself? I have yet to actually see what the filter looks like.

 

[MongoCobra]

anyone know what to do with the MAF screen with one of these cold air kits? it didnt fit well between the pipe and MAF itelsf, and the pipe did not come with a gasket. I guess the screen is not necessary

 

[gehoben]

screen

deposit the screen into your circular file cabinet:lol:

 

[JP DEMOLET]

The screen is for debris. It also sucks up 2 hp, as dyno verified by one of my Bullitt customers.

Ford classifys the screen as a "gasket" being that it includes the rubber airbox gasket with it.

The K&N filter straightens airflow, prevents debris with 2 screens, and won't pass normally encountered moisture.

This is one of the biggest advantages with my system is that you can have the K&N in a cooler location with the "down" position as compared to my competitors.

Metal conducts heat. When you draw a "heat line" created by the motor across the front of the car the "up" filter location falls along this "heat line". With the metals' heat conductivity from the surrounding metal parts the intake charge isn't as well insulated as the cellular ABS, isolated from hot metal parts, and with the K&N below the "heat line" on the down position.

Yes, the metal systems place the filter in the fender but why not opt for an optimumly cooled intake charge?

A tube and a filter. That would be so easy.

A custom hand fabricated cellular insulative, non heat conductive intake tract timmed in carbon fiber with tunability is the way to go!

At $50. more than home made, and delivered to your door, just the savings of time with the 8-10 mil. high-heat paint application, custom decals, and carbon fiber pieces alone make it worth the
price difference not to mention the performance difference!

 

[Cobra'03]

I would leave the screen on if you use the stock filter or any filtetr without a metal grid. . By my calculations, the heat transfer to air from a metal tube is very slight at normal operating speeds in this application. A few degrees at best, which is unlikely to affect anything. I prefer a straight shot approach at the air intake.

 

[JP DEMOLET]

Take a look at the Motortec Mag dyno session on my site...www.densecharger.com

This puts to rest the question of whether heat is conducted by the intake tube to the intake charge.

The dyno-verified torque gains were 13 lbs. with the down position.
But the most interesting fact to contemplate is that these gains were realized testing the cellular ABS against the factory plastic airbox. And the factory airbox had no filter to simulate a K&N!

What will the multiplication of these gains be with this scenario:

1. It's a 95 degree Texas day.
2. A metal tube is attached to surrounding metal.
3. The tube isn't insulated yet also parallels the
"engine line of heat".
4. It's filter is inner fender but above the cooler, lower,
air.

VS.

1. It's the same day.
2. A 1/4" thick cellular, 8-10 mil. high-heat painted,
optimumly insulated system which ISN'T attached
to the surrounding metal.
3. You have a "down" position now available for the
filter BELOW the "engine line of heat".
4. The filter is now in the cooler, lower, optimum
intake charge air.

Hypothesis: which system at 60 MPH delivers the
lowest temp intake charge?


Metal does conduct heat, plastic insulates.
A chrome or non-powder coated system adds the
"corrosion factor" with small particles eventually
entering the meter/motor being that the corrosion
begins behind the filter.
Plastic further cools quickly with airflow unlike a heat
conductor.

Put your arm out the window while sitting in traffic
on this same day. It's goin to be hot and sweaty.
Now exit traffic and attain a 60 mph cruise.
Your arm quickly cools yet the outside temp is the
same.

Think about the heat still radiating and being
conducted with a metal or underhood setup?



For the benefit of the FANTASTIC 03' Cobra motor, if
you're going home-made at least have the whole
thing powder coated.

 

[SA SNAKE]

I have the UPR setup and I am vary happy...

 

[yellow 04 cobra]

go to jtltruecoldair.com he sells a bad ass set up advertises 25-30 rwhp i think. it's a 4" tube he will paint to match your vehicle and puts the filter in the fender for more air!

 

[LTHL VNM]

this thread is old, let it die.........there are PLENTY of new threads regarding cai's

 

[Davesnake]

Holy raised from the dead Batman!

Dave