Just got back from the dyno and the boost is dropping off after 4500rpm. dropped from 19.5 @ 4500 down to 17 by 6300. The belt is tight. I'm running a 3.5 upper and a 6lb lower. Any ideas? How does the Boost bypass work on the whipple? It's the old style btw.
Boost loss on whipple. Help!
- Thread starter EJ23
- Start date
Be sure you have the top Boost Bypass hose hooked up to the bottom port on the back of the Whipple.
The instructions say to hook it up to the top port, but the valve has been know to bleed off boost over 17 PSI.
By switching this around it keeps the boost from bleeding off.
This was what Dustin @ Whipple recommends for anyone running 17 PSI or higher.
The instructions say to hook it up to the top port, but the valve has been know to bleed off boost over 17 PSI.
By switching this around it keeps the boost from bleeding off.
This was what Dustin @ Whipple recommends for anyone running 17 PSI or higher.
wow! I did not know this. I will be sure to try when I get home. Thanks
Hey bid, I went ahead and followed my lines and I was hoping if you could be a bit more specific, and perhaps post a diagram of these line you are talking about? I traced both lines from my bypass valve and the one on top wraps around and goes to my Intake tube with some other sensor. The one on the bottom is routed to the electronics (Boost dump selnoid) that are mounted on the drivers side of the supercharger. I routed all that junk into my wiper compartment, just to clean up a bit.
So, are you saying swap the two lines around?
So, are you saying swap the two lines around?
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This is how you should have the Boost Bypass hooked up. (I do not have the EGR anymore but it still gets hooked up the same)
Hopefully this helps.
That is such a $$ pic!!!
I def did somthing wrong,.. What am I supposed to do with the one going to the EGR? Cap it off?
I def did somthing wrong,.. What am I supposed to do with the one going to the EGR? Cap it off?
You mean the Boost Dump Valve? I would just run a vacuum line to it. (From one of the top ports on the back of the Whipple.
For the EGR, unless you have it turned off in your tune, I would leave it hooked up so it doesn't throw any codes.
**** im so confused. Does anyone have an accual vac line diagram?
The one you say Im supposed to hook the top bypass line to is already used by two other lines.
The one you say Im supposed to hook the top bypass line to is already used by two other lines.
Sorry, I don't have diagram.
I had to go to the store and buy a vacuum "T" and some more tubing to hook mine up. (It doesn't just have a place for it, you have to make it work)
Sorry I can't be of more help. I will try to find some other threads on it for reference.
No man you have been of great help, I just am confused..
For the last week I have been running so rich I thought I had a msssive leak or somthing. Now I find out if Im running 19lbs on my car, the bypass cuts it back to 17 or so? WTF?! No wonder I have been running rich. I have an Amazon tune calibrated for 19lbs,.. If Im only pushing 17lbs, then it would make sense as to why Im running 10.6 A/F ratio.
God I swear Im just so ****ing fed up with this car. If its not the Idle, then its this, I swear Im never going to get a chance to race it.
For the last week I have been running so rich I thought I had a msssive leak or somthing. Now I find out if Im running 19lbs on my car, the bypass cuts it back to 17 or so? WTF?! No wonder I have been running rich. I have an Amazon tune calibrated for 19lbs,.. If Im only pushing 17lbs, then it would make sense as to why Im running 10.6 A/F ratio.
God I swear Im just so ****ing fed up with this car. If its not the Idle, then its this, I swear Im never going to get a chance to race it.
Actually, Boost should have no affect on A/F ratio if it is tuned properly through the MAF. If your car is tuned rich, then it will be rich at 17 psi as well as 19 psi.
This is how you should have the Boost Bypass hooked up. (I do not have the EGR anymore but it still gets hooked up the same)
Hopefully this helps.
Dustin told me to leave the bottom tube (the one you listed as going to the intake tube) just open. The hose is coming off of it, but is just left open to atmosphere. I'm sure that it really makes no difference. I do have the top hose hooked into a T as you described.
-Jeff
Here is the MAF Transfer Function graph from my tune. It will better illustrate what 04sleeper is talking about. If the trans function is set up correctly based on #/Min of airflow vs Counts then your tune should give you the correct A/F ratio within an acceptable limit no matter how much boost you run. That is if the table is set up right and the person who is tuning has calculated everything correctly. There is a margin of error, but you should be safe within 4lbs of boost higher or lower than what you were tuned for in my experience.
Yeah, I know. But it was later that we realized it would be better to hook it up to the intake tube so at least it was filtered.
Kevin
I will do that. I have a capped port on the side of my intake tube that will work perfectly. I just need to get some more hose. :beer: I was more or less making sure that nothing had changed since Dustin walked me through that.
Yeah, nothing has really changed. Just the filtering it being better than not being filtered.
:beer:
Why bother filtering it ? The bypass does not suck air in that hole and only expels air.. there is no harm in leaving open thats how it is on mine and no problems yet..
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