I know a lot of people have their opinion on having this vented to air, but seeing how it doesn't hurt anything to have this hooked up, I see no reason to have it open.
Boost loss on whipple. Help!
- Thread starter EJ23
- Start date
It could very well be. I assumed you had this done, but maybe not. That would be an very easy fix if that is the case. YOu can reach behind the blower and feel for the lower tube. Then just trace it. If it isn't connected to anything then you are all set. If it is, then just cap off what it is plugged into and leave it open to the air.
-Jeff
-Jeff
I haven't went back and looked in my directions to see if they say anything about this but if it doesn't I'm giving Whipple a call. I've went through about $130 in belts plus now a dyno session that was cut short due to mine bleeding off. Granted it was just a final numbers run but still now the car has to go back on for them and to recheck the tune..
If they can't add this in the directions for over 17lbs and they have known about this that's a bunch of BS.:cuss: It's cost me a pretty penny that's for sure.
I'll be trying this today or tomorrow.:beer:
Here is the original thread that sparked it all with quotes from Dustin.
http://www.modularfords.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41789
I figured this out a year and a half back when I had my Whipple Combo, with a 3.0 upper and 2lb lower I had to do the vaccum reroute for it to hold 19-20 lbs of boost. MPH picked up considerably in the 1/8 and 1/4 after the reroute 106 in the 1/8 and almost 134 in the 1/4. Whipple owners that are running over 17lbs def. need to do this.
Sorry I forgot to come back and say "Thanks":beer: you to HISSMAN.:beer:
This is how you should have the Boost Bypass hooked up. (I do not have the EGR anymore but it still gets hooked up the same)
Hopefully this helps.
Bringing back a slightly old thread here.....would either of you guys be able to provide more pics and descriptions of what is needed to this? I wanna make sure that my car isn't dumping any boost since my Aeroforce gauge is only showing 13 lbs. of boost. Also, is there any way that the valve on the back of the blower could be off and need to be adjusted? Thanks for any help. :beer:
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Interesting. I get a 24# spike and the boost starts falling off to 18-19#. If I can get this car to hold 24# stand the f by.
Reichard Racing 3.0 upper and 4lb metco lower. Yea car runs on straight 100 octane now. 22 degree timing. A/F 11.5 WOT steady throughout all rpm. Fuel system is strong only 73% duty cycle. I initally had a lot of belt slip and was showing 20# boost and it was falling to 15#. Tighter belt seemed to help take care of that. It is the stock tensioner that is the problem mostly. Going to pick up the RR adjustable tensioner, run 8# lower and 3.5# upper. And after reading this reroute the vaccum lines.
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It's possible. But usually if it moves freely, then it should be OK.
Here's a few pictures of how I have mine done. Hope this helps. (Remember, I have my EGR deleted, but the main lines should still be the same.)
Sorry, I left them big so it would be easier to see what I was talking about.I'm gonna need to shrink these down and take a closer look at the side by side to understand this....
It's hard to see all that stuff anyway because of it's location.
I would just print them out and bring them with me. :read:
Wrong thread
This link has been a big help, but I still have a couple of questions. Can someone please take a look at this diagram and let me know if it looks right. I also need a little help on what else gets connected to the lower nipple (that has an added "T"). I think it is the harness from the FRPS but I need to make sure. Thanks a bunch
The only things that get hooked up to the "T" is the FRPS, the top port of the Boost Bypass Valve, and the vacuum line for the stock boost gauge that goes into the firewall (usually it's a yellow vacuum line).
Like this.
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