whipple HP question

graveyard

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Guys getting ready to tune my cobra next month,i was going to have a stage 5,with TB and pleuim, pullied exhaust,cold air.I have the cold air and exhaust on the car now.I want around 500 or a shade more,they tell me that the system is maxed out at around that,i didn't want to change injectors and pumps.
I was wondering if i had the extra money if i went with a whipple which i know is a lot better and faster if i would start to break stuff,or haft to change like the half shafts,26 spline shaft,etc,etc,also was wondering about how much the factory clutch and a few other factory parts would stand.I am not a aggerssive driver but i am one that if i guy pulls up in a fancy hot rod or sports car of somekind i will race with on occasions,haft to show my HP off sometimes and i never go to the track.If i get a whipple i need injectors,BAP,and a few other things,right?
I also want something i can drive on weekends without getting hot and having problems and just cruise around most of the time but if i need the HP i got it when i want it.
Give me a few thoughts guys what.s you think:beer:
04 REDFIRE
 

wesking1

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Guys getting ready to tune my cobra next month,i was going to have a stage 5,with TB and pleuim, pullied exhaust,cold air.I have the cold air and exhaust on the car now.I want around 500 or a shade more,they tell me that the system is maxed out at around that,i didn't want to change injectors and pumps.
I was wondering if i had the extra money if i went with a whipple which i know is a lot better and faster if i would start to break stuff,or haft to change like the half shafts,26 spline shaft,etc,etc,also was wondering about how much the factory clutch and a few other factory parts would stand.I am not a aggerssive driver but i am one that if i guy pulls up in a fancy hot rod or sports car of somekind i will race with on occasions,haft to show my HP off sometimes and i never go to the track.If i get a whipple i need injectors,BAP,and a few other things,right?
I also want something i can drive on weekends without getting hot and having problems and just cruise around most of the time but if i need the HP i got it when i want it.
Give me a few thoughts guys what.s you think:beer:
04 REDFIRE

I got my cobra in December it has a whipple on it the guy I got it from says it has the stock clutch and input shaft on it there is no slip or anything but I am going to put a spec stage 3+ and 26 spline shaft in this spring. It also has the stock HE also doesnt run hot or anything.
 

graveyard

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I got my cobra in December it has a whipple on it the guy I got it from says it has the stock clutch and input shaft on it there is no slip or anything but I am going to put a spec stage 3+ and 26 spline shaft in this spring. It also has the stock HE also doesnt run hot or anything.

What kind of HP are you making with it?:rockon:
 

Vmnous285

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When I first got my Whipple I made 565hp 502tq stock fuel pumps *60 Injectors with a k&n FIPK Mac o/r pro chamber and 2.5 mac cat back with the stock 3.5 whipple pulley.
 

wesking1

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I have not put it on the dyno my self but the guy before me said it made 598 on dynojet. Its quick and has a lot of power you can give it little more than half throttle in 2nd gear and it will kick the car side ways with nitto 555 315 out back
 

Fat-cat

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Gen II with a 3.5 upper and 4lb lower here. 600+ wheel on 17 pounds but i have long tubes. Do Fuel upgrades they are not something to skip on.
 

tomcat

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I've been down the same road as you....... I went with the whipple, and could not be happier. If you want 500 hp today and get it, you may want 600 tomorrow, and if you went with the ported option you are maxxed out (without nitrous, anyhow) and will eventually spend even more cash. In this case the answer to all of your questions is YES, you will need all of these supporting mods (26 spline, 60# injectors, MAF, fuel system upgrade, etc). You have to pay to play. If you skimp you will break things, get stranded, and then spend even more money.
BUT..... if you really think you will be happy at or near the 500 number, then you may not need all of these other supporting mods (MAF, injectors, maybe a few other things). Still, you will find guys on here that will chime in saying that they broke tranny & driveline components at even less hp/torque than what your stated goals are. Comes down to how hard you are on your toys, I guess. Anyhow, best of luck on the project..... these cars were built for modding! :rockon:
 

graveyard

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I've been down the same road as you....... I went with the whipple, and could not be happier. If you want 500 hp today and get it, you may want 600 tomorrow, and if you went with the ported option you are maxxed out (without nitrous, anyhow) and will eventually spend even more cash. In this case the answer to all of your questions is YES, you will need all of these supporting mods (26 spline, 60# injectors, MAF, fuel system upgrade, etc). You have to pay to play. If you skimp you will break things, get stranded, and then spend even more money.
BUT..... if you really think you will be happy at or near the 500 number, then you may not need all of these other supporting mods (MAF, injectors, maybe a few other things). Still, you will find guys on here that will chime in saying that they broke tranny & driveline components at even less hp/torque than what your stated goals are. Comes down to how hard you are on your toys, I guess. Anyhow, best of luck on the project..... these cars were built for modding! :rockon:

I will study on this for a while something to think about>>>>>>:beer:
 

99stanger

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I recently put on a 2.3, I am running 18psi (3.0 upper) through the stock manifolds and stock unported TB and it made 572/534... heatsoaked on a 90 degree day. Fuel mods are 60lbers, Bap and Mafia. Pump duty cycle was @ 75%
 

Jimmysidecarr

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Guys getting ready to tune my cobra next month,i was going to have a stage 5,with TB and pleuim, pullied exhaust,cold air.I have the cold air and exhaust on the car now.I want around 500 or a shade more,they tell me that the system is maxed out at around that,i didn't want to change injectors and pumps.

If you do the port route you will PROBABLY not need injectors and pumps.
You will however, need a MAF or MAFia, and a boost-a-pump.

Obviously if you go twin screw you will still need the above items and you can probably add on injectors too.





I was wondering if i had the extra money if i went with a whipple which i know is a lot better and faster if i would start to break stuff,or haft to change like the half shafts,26 spline shaft,etc,etc,also was wondering about how much the factory clutch and a few other factory parts would stand.I am not a aggerssive driver but i am one that if i guy pulls up in a fancy hot rod or sports car of somekind i will race with on occasions,haft to show my HP off sometimes and i never go to the track.If i get a whipple i need injectors,BAP,and a few other things,right?
I also want something i can drive on weekends without getting hot and having problems and just cruise around most of the time but if i need the HP i got it when i want it.
Give me a few thoughts guys what.s you think:beer:
04 REDFIRE

My stock clutch and input shaft are still holding, mods in link in sig.

Cooling issues do kill engines. Often it is the drivers fault not the car's.

Keep on reading.:read:
 

03 Indy Cobra

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I say go for the Whipple. I have a Whipple 2.3 gen 2 with the stock clutch and input shaft. If you do go with the Whipple make sure to address the fuel. That is the area you don't want to skimp on. 60lb injectors, Maf and either a bap, or twin GT pumps with either a single modified FPDM or dual FPDM's. What ever you decide a good tune is the most important thing in the build. Like I said I still have the stock clutch and 10 spline input shaft. When I need to upgrade I will go with the Mcleod RXT twin disc and the 26 spline input shaft. My point is if the car is a street car the stock clutch should hold up pretty well. So no need to update your clutch until it starts slipping. Also make sure you have a Billetflow IRS brace or an LPW cover.
 

graveyard

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I say go for the Whipple. I have a Whipple 2.3 gen 2 with the stock clutch and input shaft. If you do go with the Whipple make sure to address the fuel. That is the area you don't want to skimp on. 60lb injectors, Maf and either a bap, or twin GT pumps with either a single modified FPDM or dual FPDM's. What ever you decide a good tune is the most important thing in the build. Like I said I still have the stock clutch and 10 spline input shaft. When I need to upgrade I will go with the Mcleod RXT twin disc and the 26 spline input shaft. My point is if the car is a street car the stock clutch should hold up pretty well. So no need to update your clutch until it starts slipping. Also make sure you have a Billetflow IRS brace or an LPW cover.


I have the billet brace and have not had a chance to put on yet,i would like to have a whipple but i wonder what i am looking at in money buying the whipple and also the necessary upgrades.
 

1320 Junkie

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WHIPPLE FTMFW.....i skipped even tinkering with the eaton that came on my car...i ported it and sold it. Could never own one of these cars without a TS. All my mods are in my sig
 

03 Indy Cobra

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I have the billet brace and have not had a chance to put on yet,i would like to have a whipple but i wonder what i am looking at in money buying the whipple and also the necessary upgrades.

Maybe start calling venders and get some prices. If you are looking for a 2.3 Whipple give Tousley Ford a call. They have best price on the 2.3. They also carry the injectors and all the gaskets you will need. Call Lethal Performance for the rest. Plus if you do all the work yourself you will save money on labor. Good luck on what ever you decide.
 

cobracide

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You're looking at low $3k for a 2.3L whipple (just the blower). You are looking at $500 for a posi race port (just the port). The additional mods are identical if you want to play it safe and not push your fuel system past 90%. Your choice of GT fuel pumps (recommended) or KB boost-a-pump with wire upgrade, ba-2400 or mafia, TR6 or TR7IX. The dual FPDM is debatable with the GT pumps. Fore hat with the built in PPRV delete is a good option too. Adding Dragon TB/plenum to a ported Eaton will get you ~525hp. That will max out 315 wide street tires. If you ever want to go to the track, the twin screw is the way to go but it's hard to beat a ported Eaton on the street (traction limited).
 
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graveyard

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You're looking at low $3k for a 2.3L whipple (just the blower). You are looking at $500 for a posi race port (just the port). The additional mods are identical if you want to play it safe and not push your fuel system past 90%. Your choice of GT fuel pumps (recommended) or KB boost-a-pump with wire upgrade, ba-2400 or mafia, TR6 or TR7IX. The dual FPDM is debatable with the GT pumps. Fore hat with the built in PPRV delete is a good option too. Adding Dragon TB/plenum to a ported Eaton will get you ~525hp. That will max out 315 wide street tires. If you ever want to go to the track, the twin screw is the way to go but it's hard to beat a ported Eaton on the street (traction limited).

Think i could reach that without a dragon and port the plenium and tb with steg.If not what do you think i would max out at with a stage 5 ported pl,and tb.I should be able to make around 510 dont you?I know what you are saying about putting traction to the ground i have nitto 555 and they will still spin on the cobra and it pretty much factory.:rockon:
 

cobracide

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Think i could reach that without a dragon and port the plenium and tb with steg.If not what do you think i would max out at with a stage 5 ported pl,and tb.I should be able to make around 510 dont you?I know what you are saying about putting traction to the ground i have nitto 555 and they will still spin on the cobra and it pretty much factory.:rockon:

You can go ported stock TB/plenum and get similar numbers with one thing missing - the throttle response of a single blade. Also worth mentioning the stage 5 used to have a welded plate in it - not sure if it's still in there. I wouldn't want it. Try searching "torque plate". You may want to stick with a stage 4 or a posi race port. A straight posi port without touching the TB/plenum should get you really close to 500 or so. http://www.posiperformance.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=56&Itemid=62
 
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