Griggs World Challenge Frame Kit

[DocB]

Hello Fellas,

Thought you OTers might be able to answer my question.

I have a low milage pristine 04 Mystichrome that needs SFCs.
Black Pill has been done already on the IRS.
Chassis stiffness, handling, and alignment are very important to me.
Decided for now that we are not going to install a roll bar or cage.

What are your thoughts on the Griggs World Challenge Frame Kit (MFK 2000 WC) with upper thru the floor connector that gets a bulk head stiffner and extends INTO the rear subframe and is complimented by a lower FLSFC. Also, the upper connector will clear the power seat mechanism of the OE seats.

I would like to improve upon chassis stiffness as much as possible yet when done would like the interior to look stock.

I have reserched Hans(yes, was in touch with them), GW, MM, KB, Steeda and so far this seems like it would do the trick.

Any one have this installed on your car or have driven a car with this system?

What do you think? Any better ideas?

TIA.

 

[Gastrader1]

Grigg's

I have them on my current car and have driven many others with the same set up. Call Mark at Performance Autosport in Richmond, VA at 804-784-8851. They are one of the largest Grigg's dealers/installers in the country.
Good Luck
Brian

 

[spdfrkFL]

Why would you what to hack up a pristine mystichrome for subframe connectors? Most full length connectors will do the trick. If you don't track it all the time and you don't want to do a bar or cage, why hack the car up? These connectors are over kill for your purpose. IMO

 

[98 Saleen Cobra]

I have driven a car with them and they are pretty awesome. IMO they are much stiffer than MM, as I have MM on my car.. I say go for it.

 

[DocB]

Thanks for the replies so far. Looks like for me this is the best way to go unless someone chimes in with a better idea.

spdfrkFL- Your concern for not hacking up my car is appreciated but as stated alignment and handling are very important to me yet I am searching for a way to not visibly alter the interior. I believe once done, you won't be able to tell that SFCs have been installed.

On that note, I have never taken out and replaced the interior on a Mustang so any tips would be appreciated.

 

[cobraracer46]

my response from a frame connector thread in the terminator forums:

No doubt the Hans are the best, you just got to pay for them...

No, The Hans subframe connectors are NOT the best. Why? The "ladder bar" set up only adds unnecessary weight. How can I prove this point? Imagine a floor of a house or the frame work under a bridge. You can run a million 2X4's on a floor and it would never be very stiff. This 2X4 approach is the reason why the Hans ladder bar system does not work. Now next time you go under a bridge, take a look at the supporting frame work under the roadway and you will see some very deep girders. Getting back to the floor of a house example, build a floor with a few 2X12's and you will have a far stiffer floor than if you had a ton of 2X4's because the 2X12's have a deep vertical span that resists bending.

Maximum motorsports and Griggs do not make "ladder bar" style subframes because they know such a system only adds weight with no real increase in stiffness.

On a side note, the Kenny Brown subframe connectors are some of the worst mustang chassis stiffeners you can buy so avoid them.:dw:

As for the best subframe connector set up on the market, Griggs gets my vote. I have welded in a set of Maximum Motorsports subframes and I recommend them, plus they will work with the griggs upper set as well. If you buy a complete Griggs frame kit, you get lower, upper subframes and all of the bulkhead stiffening plates in one shot.

Here I am installing and welding in a "Griggs frame kit" in my 2001 Cobra convertible. Griggs is the best because a standard lower subframe connector(my cobra already had a set of Global West lower subframes without the ladder crap) is welded in the middle to a set of upper frame rails complete with bulkhead stiffeners. This system is more like having a set of 4X12's instead of a bunch of 2x4's and adds a ton of stiffness.

Bulkhead plates welded in to the B pillar and rear seat area.

Completed install, only the rear portion of the upper rail of the Griggs frame kit is visible from inside the car.

By the way, I cut and welded on the factory power seat bracket to make it work with the griggs frame kit.

Yes, the Griggs frame kit is overkill and overkill is what the SN95 mustang chassis needs for real improvments in chassis stiffness, especially the convertibles.

I say do it and dont look back.

 

[racebronco2]

Hello Fellas,

I have a low milage pristine 04 Mystichrome that needs SFCs.
Black Pill has been done already on the IRS.
Chassis stiffness, handling, and alignment are very important to me.
Decided for now that we are not going to install a roll bar or cage.

What are your thoughts on the Griggs World Challenge Frame Kit (MFK 2000 WC) with upper thru the floor connector that gets a bulk head stiffner and extends INTO the rear subframe and is complimented by a lower FLSFC. Also, the upper connector will clear the power seat mechanism of the OE seats.

I would like to improve upon chassis stiffness as much as possible yet when done would like the interior to look stock.

I have reserched Hans(yes, was in touch with them), GW, MM, KB, Steeda and so far this seems like it would do the trick.

Any one have this installed on your car or have driven a car with this system?

What do you think? Any better ideas?

TIA.

I built and installed a similar system in my o4 cobra. I have read that the cobra's power seat does not clear. The thru the floor sfc will not be hidden by the carpet behind the seat, in fact the carpet can almost fit underneath them. The flsfc will be the lowest part of the car now.

My car is so much stiffer with the thru the fsfc. Best chassis mod to date.

 

[DocB]

cobraracer46,

You have a PM.

TIA.

 

[03-246]

Griggs World Challenge Frame Kit is the way to go!

The Griggs World Challenge frame kit is one of the best mods you can do -- stiffens the stock Mustang chassis by 1500% -- something desparately needed in pre 2005 cars. I have tried other set-ups and they do improve the base ill-handling Mustang chassis, but if you want the ultimate in handling Griggs is the way to go. It will most definitely effect the interior of your car, most noticeable behind the front seats, as the interior frame kit extends from the front to rear torque boxes, but the carpet can be tucked underneath to give your street car a more finished look. My '02 is a dedicated track car so I wasn't as concerned about appearance...it was all about handling. My car also has the full GR40 World Challenge set-up, including Watts link in the rear and SLA in the front and Griggs 4on4 brakes. The car puts a smile on my face every time I go out on track....it really is amazing...fast and confidence inspiring.

 

[steve121]

Beautiful car-more pics please!

 

[03-246]

Thanks very much...more pics, videos and car build details are available at www.cardomain.com/ride/3070346

 

[steve121]

Thanks very much...more pics, videos and car build details are available at www.cardomain.com/ride/3070346

Did you attend the 2008 SCMC event at VIR? Your car looks the same as the one pictured here (right side bottom of the page)Performance Auto Sport in Richmond, Virginia

 

[03-246]

Same car...PAS/Don Rostich did all of the fabrication and delivered it just before that SVT event. Unfortunately, I didn't spend much time on track...first session I blew the stock Ford 3650 transmission. Right after that event it went back to PAS for a TK0600, Quik Time Bell and Spec 3 clutch. Also added Forgeline ZX3R 3-piece wheels. Car has been working great ever since. I have some Q's for you regarding your '00 R wheels. Please email me at [email protected]

 

[steve121]

I remember looking at the car during that event-top quality build.

 

[DocB]

We finally finished the install of the lower and upper FLSFCs.
I did a review of most connectors readily available and this is what made most sense to me, from a structual engineering standpoint.
Lower-Steeda.
Upper-Griggs full length. The kit needed quite a bit of massaging to make it fit. We also did a bit of self engineering for added stiffness.
Block welded the lowers to the uppers so now they are essentially one unit.
Never seen that done anywhere before, but it sure does stiffen things up.
Since it was our first time, it took longer than expected. As far as instructions-let's just say it's a good thing we're pretty good at fabrication and can think on the fly. It was alot of work, but well worth it for me.
Alignment is very important to me, and you can't align a wet noodle.

All parts got 3 coats of POR-15 and a final coat of Chassis Black.

All work performed by Jim Rymdeko and Bruno Stockinger at L&M Engines.

A few pics for your review:

Bruno.....

 

[03-246]

Great looking build...wait untiul you get it on track...unbelieveable difference! I was at VIR last weekend pushing harder and harder...the car has so much more still to offer.

Here's a video link and a few photos from the weekend.
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o0tVC4U_U8k"]YouTube- SVT Superfest 2010 @ VIR North Course on 5/29/2010[/nomedia]

 

[DocB]

03-246,

Looks like you had a good time at VIR.

Hope to be there next year too. The itch is just getting too bad.

Just have to get the car ready first.

 

[ac427cobra]

We finally finished the install of the lower and upper FLSFCs.
I did a review of most connectors readily available and this is what made most sense to me, from a structual engineering standpoint.
Lower-Steeda.
Upper-Griggs full length. The kit needed quite a bit of massaging to make it fit. We also did a bit of self engineering for added stiffness.
Block welded the lowers to the uppers so now they are essentially one unit.
Never seen that done anywhere before, but it sure does stiffen things up.
Since it was our first time, it took longer than expected. As far as instructions-let's just say it's a good thing we're pretty good at fabrication and can think on the fly. It was alot of work, but well worth it for me.
Alignment is very important to me, and you can't align a wet noodle.

All parts got 3 coats of POR-15 and a final coat of Chassis Black.

All work performed by Jim Rymdeko and Bruno Stockinger at L&M Engines.

A few pics for your review:

Bruno.....

Looks very nice Bruno. Just keep in mind it starts with the through the floor subframes then it keep progressing with more and more roll bars until the chassis is completely and totally inflexible! ;-)oke:

 

[KILRSVT]

man that griggs car is the awesome....some nice work on ^^^^^

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

Looks very nice Bruno. Just keep in mind it starts with the through the floor subframes then it keep progressing with more and more roll bars until the chassis is completely and totally inflexible! ;-)oke:

Where the heck do ya put the grand kids??:shrug:

J/K:-D