Where the heck do ya put the grand kids??:shrug:
J/K:-D
They are like monkey bars, just can't use them when the car's on the track! ;-)
Griggs World Challenge Frame Kit
- Thread starter DocB
- Start date
They are like monkey bars, just can't use them when the car's on the track! ;-)
Got the car aligned yesterday and took her out for a spirited spin.
I was on good street tires, but/and the pavement was hot.
HOLY MOLY !!!!! Can you say Crazy Glue! And stiff is an understatement.
I did a few hard full lock turns under power and really couldn't break the rear loose. She just stuck nice and firm and pulled right around. Kinda surprised me a little.
I am satisfied with the results so far.
But I think a better rear tire is needed becase I still have wheel hop.
I was on good street tires, but/and the pavement was hot.
HOLY MOLY !!!!! Can you say Crazy Glue! And stiff is an understatement.
I did a few hard full lock turns under power and really couldn't break the rear loose. She just stuck nice and firm and pulled right around. Kinda surprised me a little.
I am satisfied with the results so far.
But I think a better rear tire is needed becase I still have wheel hop.
Bruno:
What kind of rear tires are you on, what are the pressures you're running, what rear springs and shocks are you running.
Bruce,
Tires are new Cooper Zeon 2XS 275/40/17 on all 4 corners. Came with the car.
A pretty good all around street tire, excellent in the rain. 32 psi, I think, but will check.
Slight wheel hop noticed only when I got up into the upper power band.
Stock Coupe springs, shocks and struts.
I have 2 polished Cobra R rims in 10.5 which match the fronts in appearance sitting next to a pair of R888s in 315/35ZR/17 waiting to be mounted up. I'm thinking this might cure the hop on hard, straight pulls. Yet, will be a good all around street tire. Also, plan on seeing how they do at Pocono.
Car is 2.90" upper only, CAI and Magnaflow cat-back.
FTBR smorgasborg of course.
Any other ideas or suggestions?
Tires are new Cooper Zeon 2XS 275/40/17 on all 4 corners. Came with the car.
A pretty good all around street tire, excellent in the rain. 32 psi, I think, but will check.
Slight wheel hop noticed only when I got up into the upper power band.
Stock Coupe springs, shocks and struts.
I have 2 polished Cobra R rims in 10.5 which match the fronts in appearance sitting next to a pair of R888s in 315/35ZR/17 waiting to be mounted up. I'm thinking this might cure the hop on hard, straight pulls. Yet, will be a good all around street tire. Also, plan on seeing how they do at Pocono.
Car is 2.90" upper only, CAI and Magnaflow cat-back.
FTBR smorgasborg of course.
Any other ideas or suggestions?
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Bruno:
I would reduce the rear tires to about 28 psi and see what that does. I have not heard much feeback on that tire at all. Fronts you can run at those higher pressures no problem.
Pretty sure the R888's will be a LOT better though. Keep us posted.
:thumbsup::coolman::beer:
I know it's not lowered but did you check the rear bump steer?
Also make sure the rear wheel bearings are torqued to spec and have no excessive play.
I'm having a hard time finding seats that clear my Griggs in-floor SFCs. My current seats came with the car (think they are Cobra) and are on a mount plate so the side plates mount to it. Needless to say, the mount plate got compromised by way of cutting to make room for the in-floor SFCs, now the seat won't stay in position.
I'm looking to replace seats but would like to hear what you guys have done or used? I'm considering just having a custom seat mounting frame made, but I figure SOMEONE has gone through this before.
I'm looking to replace seats but would like to hear what you guys have done or used? I'm considering just having a custom seat mounting frame made, but I figure SOMEONE has gone through this before.
I would like to know this as well, I have been tempted to add the Griggs though foor upper to my GlobalWest lowers.
My seats are already modded to allow 5th anti sub belt functionality, so although they are heavy, heavy heavy, they are also already mine.
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The SFC on the driver's side only needs to notched out and the corner inverted and welded back in to clear the stock seat mechanism.
About 6" long.
Trial fit the connector in before welding, put the seat back in, and it will tell you where it needs to done.
Compare the pics posted earlier it this thread by cobraracer46 and the ones I posted. You need to make sure the connector sits down/in as deep as possible. That means all the way to/in the bottom of the front U channel subframe and the same for the rear as it goes through the bulkhead.
Keep it as low as possible penetrating the bulkhead.
If you have to fight to get the carpet back under the connector, it is where it shoud be.
Do this and there will be plenty of clearance for the stock seats.
I think all this figuring and massaging is what took us so long. The next one should go alot faster.
There is no such thing as a bolt on.
About 6" long.
Trial fit the connector in before welding, put the seat back in, and it will tell you where it needs to done.
Compare the pics posted earlier it this thread by cobraracer46 and the ones I posted. You need to make sure the connector sits down/in as deep as possible. That means all the way to/in the bottom of the front U channel subframe and the same for the rear as it goes through the bulkhead.
Keep it as low as possible penetrating the bulkhead.
If you have to fight to get the carpet back under the connector, it is where it shoud be.
Do this and there will be plenty of clearance for the stock seats.
I think all this figuring and massaging is what took us so long. The next one should go alot faster.
There is no such thing as a bolt on.
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I'll have to get some pictures of my setup to further explain. But, a) the SFCs are already in and b) I don't have stock seats or use the stock seat mechanism and c) IIRC I don't think I can perform the notch and reverse because the notch would be more than half way through. I'll get some pics and show my current scenario, and I think my bars are way down in the channel as it was very hard to get the carpet under it. Then again, this was almost 3 years ago so my memory may be off.
Thank you, I now know that this VERY worthy mod is VERY do-able.
What's the difference between upper SFC's in the Griggs World Challenge, and the Griggs Complete frame kit?
Griggs Racing Products
Ofcourse it says the WC kit sits lower in the lower, and extends back into the protrude further back though the rear bulkhead into the rear subframes. I always though all through floor SFC's extended into the rear subframes. If not then how are you brigding the chassis? The $200 price difference in the kits is too much it sounds like to me. I assume you could add lower SFC's with any companies in floor SFC's? You could buy some cheapo Chassis Engineering in floor SFC's, and some lower SFC's of you choose, and have a similar system. Chassis Engineering in floor SFC'd don't look to extend as far forward, but I think Wolfe SFC's do. Hell people are even making they're own.
[ame="http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1177989"]My through floor subframe connector instal. - Corral.net : Ford Mustang Forums[/ame]
I do like DocB's setup, as the Steeda SFC's are my favor regular FLSFC's.
Griggs Racing Products
Ofcourse it says the WC kit sits lower in the lower, and extends back into the protrude further back though the rear bulkhead into the rear subframes. I always though all through floor SFC's extended into the rear subframes. If not then how are you brigding the chassis? The $200 price difference in the kits is too much it sounds like to me. I assume you could add lower SFC's with any companies in floor SFC's? You could buy some cheapo Chassis Engineering in floor SFC's, and some lower SFC's of you choose, and have a similar system. Chassis Engineering in floor SFC'd don't look to extend as far forward, but I think Wolfe SFC's do. Hell people are even making they're own.
[ame="http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1177989"]My through floor subframe connector instal. - Corral.net : Ford Mustang Forums[/ame]
I do like DocB's setup, as the Steeda SFC's are my favor regular FLSFC's.
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hey guys,
Any dealer where I can find the through the floor uppers from Griggs for decent price?
Any dealer where I can find the through the floor uppers from Griggs for decent price?
Just buy the square tubing and do it yourself. It's alot cheaper. Just do some research at c-c to find out the most common size and wall thickness.
Cool, I was thinking about it.. since its just tubing and $200+ sounds a little too much 
thanks!
thanks!
14 Gauge 2x2 Mild steel Square tubing
I used 2x3 14 gauge for the kickout to the rockers
Any local metal supplier worth their salt should have it in stock cheap. Once you cut the floorboard out in the front it lays in the framerail like it was meant to be there
This is in my racecar. It's much more drag-oriented, but I'm going more in the road race direction myself with the cobra.
I used 2x3 14 gauge for the kickout to the rockers
Any local metal supplier worth their salt should have it in stock cheap. Once you cut the floorboard out in the front it lays in the framerail like it was meant to be there
This is in my racecar. It's much more drag-oriented, but I'm going more in the road race direction myself with the cobra.
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This brings a question I always had. With a good 6 point welded, this upper frames do anything?
It still ties together the front and rear subframe and provides a solid base for the rollcage, so yes it's absolutely worthwhile
Man I want these subframes! Great thread guys thanks!
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