Trying to get my 04 Cobra ready for the track

Hey all i am trying to get my 04 cobra ready for the track and I am wondering what would be the best route i should go for the suspension and other handling components.

this is a rough list compiled of some things that i think are very necessary

o Billet flow differential cover
o PHP toe link bars
o MM diff bushings
o MM IRS bushings with 14mm bolts
o Billet flow IRS mount bracket
o H and R race springs
o MM UCA/LCA bushings
o Caster camber plates
o Sway bar
o Kmember kit

i could also go the with the MM road and track box kit they offer on their website it can be found click here

or should i get the package and then add in some of the things not included in the package.

i am trying to go the most handling performance out of my car for the track

thanks for any and all help.

Derek

If you're looking to improve the IRS I wouldn't get the MM bushings. I bought the bushing kit for my 2000 R from a member and the quality is top notch. The bushings are Delrin and UHMW. It made a huge difference in the handling of the car. Information can be found here http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=260665

Derek, you may want to consider some DSS level 2 halfshafts as well. They should be plenty for your power output and may be necessary if you will be using race tires. Also, maybe a diff upgrade to a Torsen T2R....
Mark

You're wasting money. Can't tell from your profile but I'm presuming you're a first timer at the track?

If its a new experience, tires, fresh brakes and brake fluid and you're done. Spend the rest of the time on you. Car will be faster than you as-is. All that other stuff is a waste of $$$ if you're new.

Dis-regard this advice if you're a pro.

John

Dridge09 said:

Hey all i am trying to get my 04 cobra ready for the track and I am wondering what would be the best route i should go for the suspension and other handling components.

this is a rough list compiled of some things that i think are very necessary

o Billet flow differential cover
o PHP toe link bars
o MM diff bushings
o MM IRS bushings with 14mm bolts
o Billet flow IRS mount bracket
o H and R race springs
o MM UCA/LCA bushings
o Caster camber plates
o Sway bar
o Kmember kit

i could also go the with the MM road and track box kit they offer on their website it can be found click here

or should i get the package and then add in some of the things not included in the package.

i am trying to go the most handling performance out of my car for the track

thanks for any and all help.

Derek

Click to expand...

Let's take a deep breath here and slow it down first!

1. How many events have you done so far?
Before we go any further I need to know this. And yes I have a fair amount of experience open tracking a Terminator. I run in intermediate group or advanced depending on the field of cars and drivers.

Don't spend dime one just yet...:nono:

The level 2 axles are not needed. The first mod should be cooling ducts, better fluid and better pads. After a few events you are going to need cooling mods cause your car will either run too hot or go into limp mode.

racebronco2 said:

The level 2 axles are not needed. The first mod should be cooling ducts, better fluid and better pads. After a few events you are going to need cooling mods cause your car will either run too hot or go into limp mode.

Click to expand...

100% on the money.:beer:

Although I did the Delrin thing I am still on stock springs and shocks and stock sway bars.
You(as a driver) will get faster much quicker if you leave the car closer to stock.

Learn how to do the cluster test mode temp read out thing, so you can keep an eye on engine coolant temps and back off before she barfs or goes into limp mode.

That pulley is way too small for open track you'll be lucky to get three full boogie laps in before you overheat.

Listen to the words of the wise. /\

Start with good brakes & tires. Then spend $$$ on track time.

Oh, and plan on having LOTS OF FUN! :banana:

i used to have a 05 gt and ive done several track events in the past. I am also in the process of getting a heat exchanger either Fluydine or ASCO (I believe that is the name of it) and the Even FLow gen 2 head cooling mod I hear those are a necessity. I already have upgraded break pads and larger slotted and drilled rotors on the front and back.

Dridge09 said:

i used to have a 05 gt and ive done several track events in the past. I am also in the process of getting a heat exchanger either Fluydine or ASCO (I believe that is the name of it) and the Even FLow gen 2 head cooling mod I hear those are a necessity. I already have upgraded break pads and larger slotted and drilled rotors on the front and back.

Click to expand...

What did you get?

Dridge09 said:

I already have upgraded break pads and larger slotted and drilled rotors on the front and back.

Click to expand...

I really would avoid a drilled rotor for track use. Slotted is fine. But ONLY slotted, not slotted AND drilled!

FWIW

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:

I hate you guys haha i have the 00R Front brembo brake conversion:thumbsup:

...with cross drilled rotors

these rotors are made for the track and are made well enough to be both slotted and drilled with out having to worry about them cracking or warping like cheaper slotted and drilled rotors. I bought these rotors from a race shop that my buddy owns and I trust him since he uses them him self on his modified and his track car. I can not think of the brand name at the moment but I will check later and let you all know. I have had only slotted rotors before and these high performance slotted and drilled are far superior to just the slotted ones.

Dridge09 said:

these rotors are made for the track and are made well enough to be both slotted and drilled with out having to worry about them cracking or warping like cheaper slotted and drilled rotors. I bought these rotors from a race shop that my buddy owns and I trust him since he uses them him self on his modified and his track car. I can not think of the brand name at the moment but I will check later and let you all know. I have had only slotted rotors before and these high performance slotted and drilled are far superior to just the slotted ones.

Click to expand...

Here we go...

Are these new rotors superior because your friend told you so or because your car does a front flip when you hit the brakes now?

All you need is an $80 set of brake cooling ducts and a brake fluid flush to get started. You will probably need to ditch the 2.6 pulley at some point.

I've raced everything from 175ccc-460cc motorcycles, Formula Vees and Formula Fords to Mustangs.
If 30+ years of racing, AMA and SCCA, means anything, Drilled or Slotted rotors for the vast majority of club racers and certainly track day folks is a big outlay of money for limited, if any advantage. They DO crack and unless you want to spend bucks every weekend, a waste. Unmolested rotors work just as well with modern pads and last longer. I race with very aggressive pads and a set of rotors will last me all season. I managed to crack a set of drilled rotors one weekend at Sebring back in the mid '90's. Never again.

thanks for the advice every one but I am not saying the brakes are good because my buddy said so Im saying the brakes are good because the car will stop on a dime and give you 2 cents change. as for the 2.6 pulley... i know it is a possibility to be taken off later however i put a de-tune in the car that which reduces it down by 50 horses so that the car isnt running like a bat out of hell unless i want it too. still thanks for the advice. i most definitely will be getting the billit flow differential brace.

Just remember, any rotor will get you stopped. It is the pad selection that makes or breaks.... the system.
(I slay myself sometimes.):lol1:
Seriously, I don't know of any rotor that won't develop heat cracks with track use, I don't care who makes them. The problem with drilled (including "Porch") is when they start, the holes are big gaps that spread them more easily. Fine if you monitor them daily. Let them go and they go from hairline to fracture with a single hard application of the brakes. Not good when the pieces jam calipers.
The right pad will stop you better with less drama over and over again... holes, slots or wiggly grooves.

Derek, what tires are you running on track? When the drilled rotors stopped you better than non-drilled ones? Were you past lockup?

Spend all your waking moments reading in this forum, and then reading everything you can on the forums here: www.corner-carvers.com.

Because you asked for opinionsopinions in red

Dridge09 said:

Hey all i am trying to get my 04 cobra ready for the track and I am wondering what would be the best route i should go for the suspension and other handling components.

this is a rough list compiled of some things that i think are very necessary (Not to be harsh here but NONE of these is necessary, let alone VERY necessary, to get a Terminator ready for the track)
o Billet flow differential cover (yes I have one but, it is for possible street wheel hop carnage, which is almost completely gone now. Not really needed for open track or road racing)
o PHP toe link bars (Too much money IMHO, again a wheel hop mod made less necessary by putting on good SFCs and replacing rubber in the IRS with Delrin)
o MM diff bushings (go Aluminum, the poly ones soften and distort/fail)
o MM IRS bushings with 14mm bolts I bought and installed my IRS bushings myself, the MM tools are great but I bought my kit from Bruce AKA-> ac 427 cobra)
o Billet flow IRS mount bracket (also known as the Mathis brace but improved by Billetflow, A good handling and wheel hop mod)
o H and R race springs (These are good springs when dampened properly, our Bilsteins can be sent out and re-valved fairly reasonably. Our stock valving is actually slightly under dampened with stock springs. I would wait and see if later on you may want coil overs or an LA/SA front suspension since that would be a superior set up to conventional springs. That should minimize mod ditching, which gets expensive FAST!)
o MM UCA/LCA bushings (Delrin)
o Caster camber plates (MM FTW!)
o Sway bar (NO! a sway bar should be considered a tuning device after the rest of the suspension issues have been addressed)
o Kmember kit (I would wait on this too. Coil overs and Delrin bushed offset lower arms work very well with the stock K. If you go LA/SA you will be buying another K.)


i could also go the with the MM road and track box kit they offer on their website it can be found click here

or should i get the package and then add in some of the things not included in the package.

i am trying to go the most handling performance out of my car for the track

thanks for any and all help.

Derek

Click to expand...

In order of importance according to me...:rollseyes

1. Brake cooling ducts, because you just can't go wrong with this mod.
2. Track time in this specific car, to see what happens under track conditions first hand.
3. Address issues revealed in step 2 IE: cooling, warped coolant tank and cap from barfing boiling coolant.
3. Repeat step 2 and see if you can run 4 or 5 laps full out without getting too hot.



A few tips...
1. Never start a session with a 1/2 tank of gas, if it's down to 1/2 go top it off.
2. You will be learning a new car, run treaded non-R compound street tires. It is the fastest way to learn how your car behaves and what is required to catch it when it begins to loose grip. Run at least 3 -> 8 session events minimum before going R compounds
3. When (not if) you get hot you will need to catch it before it spews or goes into limp. A coolant temp gauge or the cluster test mode will allow you to preemptively pick a straight away to upshft into 5th or 6th and milk the gas and allow cooling air to drop temps back down during your session.

4. Bring an open mind and an eagerness to learn. Don't expect to learn if you all ready know it all. It will be much more fun for you.

5. Work on your skills as a driver and don't worry so much about your car or anyone else's. There will be fast cars going slow and slow cars going fast. Don't let it engage your ego, you are there to enjoy your car to the max and to become a better driver.

You are smart enough to know this is the most fun a car guy can have in a car with his pants still on, so you already have that going for you.

ENJOY don't compete.:beer:

You can spend an awful lot of money if you want to.
SA/LA kit w/ coil overs from Griggs $$$$ http://www.griggsracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=4332_4310_4347_1050&products_id=521

SA/LA kit w/ coil overs from Agent Fortyseven http://www.agentfortyseven.com/SN95/suspension.html

So, after reading this thread op: witch is very interesting by the way,
no body mention anything about IRS differential oil cooler...
So, does that meen the diff. is up to the punishment of road course racing ?
there is nothing to worry :shrug: about overheating the oil ?